2001 S60 T2.4 Throttle Mess
#41
I installed ignition coil packs, new fuel filter (again), and MAF. (again)
Coil packs and MAF are aftermarket (5 star and 400+ sold off eBay)
I know it's not as premium as OEMs but it would at least get me somewhere, but it didn't.
Car still undrivable and idle still erratic and often dies. I can't take it to the dealer because of financial issue so I decided to let this car go and sell it as is instead.
but for archive purposes this video will show what happened after I replaced those parts listed above.
I would still love to hear what you guys have to say about what is going on.
Coil packs and MAF are aftermarket (5 star and 400+ sold off eBay)
I know it's not as premium as OEMs but it would at least get me somewhere, but it didn't.
Car still undrivable and idle still erratic and often dies. I can't take it to the dealer because of financial issue so I decided to let this car go and sell it as is instead.
but for archive purposes this video will show what happened after I replaced those parts listed above.
I would still love to hear what you guys have to say about what is going on.
#42
#43
I understand you have financial limitations, but I don't understand why you ignore advice and spend more money on another MAF and more coils and another fuel filter for no reason?
Dealer diagnosis is free. As in no charge.
And for the 5th time- I bet it's the used throttle body.
Dealer diagnosis is free. As in no charge.
And for the 5th time- I bet it's the used throttle body.
I don't mean to ignore YOUR advice and few others that said the same thing as to take it to the dealer. but I have a couple issues with that:
1. it's "nearby" but not close enough for my car to drive there
2. Towing would take time and I just went through mid-term exams this past 2 weeks (add 1 more week for preps) hence my lack of time
The new/used ETM could be the problem, but it has the same exact symptoms with the old ETM. I can try to take apart my car next week and return my ETM and replace it with my old ETM and see if there's any changes. If not, then I'm going to buy Xemodex using the return money from my new/used ETM.
Sorry if I came as "ignoring" your advice, I'm doing things that are viable for me and easiest to do by myself. I can take it to the dealer next weekend.
Thank you though for your advices, I take notes of everything you wrote, I just haven't had the chance to execute those yet.
#44
Do you really a think a $200 Bosch MAF and a $30 MAF from some guy on ebay are the same? A cheap, aftermarket MAF could be part of the problem. But those codes indicate a problem with the wiring to the coils. So wiring or an ECM (super rare). The symptom is exactly like that of a bad throttle, which I have seen probably hundreds of times.
Used parts are never a sure thing. ETMs are a common failure on that car. So how do you know you didn't replace your bad ETM with another bad ETM?
Used parts are never a sure thing. ETMs are a common failure on that car. So how do you know you didn't replace your bad ETM with another bad ETM?
#45
Instead of replacing parts you should get yourself some basic equipment to diagnose the problem
At this point without you being able to test Spark - Fuel and Compression the basic for an engine to run you are pretty lost
For Spark test you need adjustable spark tester - see the link
For Fuel test you need Fuel Pressure Tester - simple to do on Volvo - see the link
For Compression test you need Engine Compression Test Kit - see the link
At this point without you being able to test Spark - Fuel and Compression the basic for an engine to run you are pretty lost
For Spark test you need adjustable spark tester - see the link
For Fuel test you need Fuel Pressure Tester - simple to do on Volvo - see the link
For Compression test you need Engine Compression Test Kit - see the link
#48
Does the engine run if you give it gas and hold it at 3000 rpm
did you check the vacuum lines? I had the same problem bc the vacuum hose under the intake manifold that goes into a T connection was totally shot but had to feel it with my fingers under the manifold to realize it had a split - you can't see that part only the one that is connected to the intake manifold
As shown in the pic follow the vacuum line to the T and in both directions you need to squeeze it see pic
did you check the vacuum lines? I had the same problem bc the vacuum hose under the intake manifold that goes into a T connection was totally shot but had to feel it with my fingers under the manifold to realize it had a split - you can't see that part only the one that is connected to the intake manifold
As shown in the pic follow the vacuum line to the T and in both directions you need to squeeze it see pic
Last edited by Volvisiman; 03-19-2017 at 09:50 AM.
#49
#50
Does the engine run if you give it gas and hold it at 3000 rpm
did you check the vacuum lines? I had the same problem bc the vacuum hose under the intake manifold that goes into a T connection was totally shot but had to feel it with my fingers under the manifold to realize it had a split - you can't see that part only the one that is connected to the intake manifold
As shown in the pic follow the vacuum line to the T and in both directions you need to squeeze it see pic
did you check the vacuum lines? I had the same problem bc the vacuum hose under the intake manifold that goes into a T connection was totally shot but had to feel it with my fingers under the manifold to realize it had a split - you can't see that part only the one that is connected to the intake manifold
As shown in the pic follow the vacuum line to the T and in both directions you need to squeeze it see pic
I'll check that tomorrow if possible. Let me check if there's a crack.
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I don't know if this has any correlation but I found out that my radiator fan somehow kept on running even when the car is turned off. weird but I don't know if this has anything to do with any of this.
Last edited by Zano Korellio; 03-19-2017 at 09:04 PM.
#52
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