2001 volvo s60 catalyst and evap not ready
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2001 volvo s60 catalyst and evap not ready
After replacing a new battery and drove over over 300 miles, catalyst and evap still not ready. There are no code pending, any suggestion what could be the issues ? Thanks
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From: Burlington, VT
https://repairpal.com/drive-cycle-is...0the%20battery. has some good suggestions.
A quick summary: Assuming you've cleared all stored codes do the following: 1) clean, secure terminals and chassis ground points. Measure battery voltage across the terminals. An 80% charged battery is in the 12.6V range. 2) check the charging system by checking battery voltage with the engine running. Should measure in the 14V-14.5V range. Turn on electrical accessories - headlights on high, rear defrost on, heated seats on, HVAC blower on high, AC/DC cranked on the CD. measured voltage should be 13.5 or more. 3) keep the gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full (full tank/empty can mess with the evap system testing done by the ECU). 4) let the car rest over night in a cool place, keys out to allow a baseline for the temp sensor. 5) Google for a drive cycle. Generally this is where you'd drive for a minimum of 15 minutes with varied speeds including highway driving at a steady 55-60 for a minimum of of 5 miles (cruise control is a good option here). 6) periodically scan for readiness and then research root causes (such as a slow to heat O2 sensor etc). Here's an example of one driving cycle I found
1. Start engine and accelerate to 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive car for 6 min at 15000-2000 rpm.
3. Stop car and idle for 70 sec.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive at 1800 -2200 rpm for 5 min.
5. Stop car and idle for 60 sec.
6. Accelerate to at least 45mph at 1800 -2200 rpm for 4 min.
7. Stop car and idle for 60 sec.
8. Turn off engine wait 60 sec.
I've also seen other posts suggesting they had to go 50 miles + with "driving 45-50 mph in 5th or 6th gear as much as possible for about 30 minutes. And let the car idle a couple times with the ac off."
A quick summary: Assuming you've cleared all stored codes do the following: 1) clean, secure terminals and chassis ground points. Measure battery voltage across the terminals. An 80% charged battery is in the 12.6V range. 2) check the charging system by checking battery voltage with the engine running. Should measure in the 14V-14.5V range. Turn on electrical accessories - headlights on high, rear defrost on, heated seats on, HVAC blower on high, AC/DC cranked on the CD. measured voltage should be 13.5 or more. 3) keep the gas tank between 1/4 and 3/4 full (full tank/empty can mess with the evap system testing done by the ECU). 4) let the car rest over night in a cool place, keys out to allow a baseline for the temp sensor. 5) Google for a drive cycle. Generally this is where you'd drive for a minimum of 15 minutes with varied speeds including highway driving at a steady 55-60 for a minimum of of 5 miles (cruise control is a good option here). 6) periodically scan for readiness and then research root causes (such as a slow to heat O2 sensor etc). Here's an example of one driving cycle I found
1. Start engine and accelerate to 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive car for 6 min at 15000-2000 rpm.
3. Stop car and idle for 70 sec.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive at 1800 -2200 rpm for 5 min.
5. Stop car and idle for 60 sec.
6. Accelerate to at least 45mph at 1800 -2200 rpm for 4 min.
7. Stop car and idle for 60 sec.
8. Turn off engine wait 60 sec.
I've also seen other posts suggesting they had to go 50 miles + with "driving 45-50 mph in 5th or 6th gear as much as possible for about 30 minutes. And let the car idle a couple times with the ac off."
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donbo
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Jul 28, 2011 07:56 AM
