Ok, here's the skinny - I have a 2002 Volvo S60 with 130,000 miles, bought it with about 55k on it. Car has had issues with front suspension since i got it and it has never really been "right" if you ask me, depsite repeated attempts by the shop at the place i bought it. Had some things fixed over the last 5 years or so: upper engine motor mount, fuel pump recall, rear brakes, had timing belt replaced before it went on it's own, new battery, voltage regulator, among a few others.

Most recently had a new set of tires (Jan 2011) and when I brought it in for a transmission fluid change I was told i needed the following with estimated cost for parts and labor:

$388 = leak in fuel evaporation system, needs vent valve and hose near cannister
$426 = front left wheel bearings
$539 = front brakes (rotors and pads, down to 2mm)
$575 = power steering pump
$849 = front struts and spring seats
$471 = brushings on rear shocks are cracked, needs new rear shocks(?)
$399 = needs right front axle (leaking)
$230 = needs both front sway bar links

$3,877 = approx total

PLUS, the driver side door will not open from the inside, dealer looked at it and said the hook/retainer broke off and it would need a new door panel,...another $300-600 depending on if i can get a used one or have to go new......(been like that for a year, probabbly a safety issue).....sit's really about $4,200 or so.

The questiosn is: Gt it all fixed? Trade in in and get something else? Get 2nd opinion? Anythign else I should expect to go wrong soon?

Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated.....thanks in advance!

 

That's a pretty big list. What would you have to pay for a different car that has less miles, is newer, etc. Probably more. If you like it and plan on keeping it for a few more years then put the money in it. If not, then start looking to sell.

 

thanks for the reply. Yeah, that's what I am grappling with, keeping it for a few more years or starting over now. Couldn't get much for it if I sold it, kind of leanign towards keeping it and getting it fixed. That $4k sticker shock still hurts though, better than a new car payment I suppose.....

 

Shop around on some of the items. I bought new rotors and Akebono Euro ceramic pads from FCP Groton front & rear and even after I had them installed it came to only a little over $600.

Also talk to your mechanic. See if you can spread the repairs out over a period of time, starting with the most needed and working backward. It wont cost any less but you also wont have to come up with all the money at one time.

 

$388 = leak in fuel evaporation system, needs vent valve and hose near canister
That sounds high and if there is No CEL that would be at the back of the list
$426 = front left wheel bearings
does it make a groaning sound going down the road? If so then this needs to get done
$539 = front brakes (rotors and pads, down to 2mm)
Normal wear and tear get it done
$575 = power steering pump
Is it leaking? Wining? If it drives fine and is not dumping fluid I would leave it be untill it goes out.
$849 = front struts and spring seats
Common on the volvos
$471 = brushings on rear shocks are cracked, needs new rear shocks(?)
Don’t worry about it for the time being
$399 = needs right front axle (leaking)
Have no idea about this one, Is this common on volvos? if it's not clunking when turning I would take the axle out and check for torn orings.
$230 = needs both front sway bar links
Common problem. The links are less than $100 ,130 labor sounds high to me.


I would get a second shop to look at it. The prices sound high to me. Are they useing Oem struts not cheap aftermarkets. I have replaced older stock struts with el cheapos in the past and normaly the worn out stock stuff is almost as good as the new cheepos. I do like oem in this department. or a highend aftermarket brand.

 

I was gonna dump my 02 s60 but I found a Great Mechanic who does the work for a whole lot less. So I have decided to keep it. The Only Job I have is making sure I purchase the right parts. Check IPD for parts and always get a second or maybe a third opinion!

 

the only time i see this many problems with a car like this one is when you dont take proper care and you may THINK you are but your not OR the previous owner dident
clean it often, change oil, out of the sun, inspect daily and itll last forever

 

yeah, i have kept up on oil changes and basic maintenance but not the schedueld maintenance, from what I was told they are overpriced for what you get. I did proactiviely get the timing belt replaced, did not want that mess on my hands. Will be keeping up on the maintenance better now. I ended up getting a second opinion and got a bunch fixed for $2k and that inlcuded $450 for the 120k or 130k scheduled maintenance. Shoud be good for a while, thanks!

 

I have had mine since new (2002) and it's the best car I have ever had. I have 224000 km on mine and just now, put lower ball joints and tie rods. I use nothing but synthetic oil. After an issue of transmission reading I will get it flushed. I've driven to Florida three times and now to Nova Scotia. I suggest you take it to another Volvo guy (not a dealer) and get him to do a complete inspection of everything so you can decide. I don't use dealers. I would rather find a Volvo guy who does his own thing.

 

Considering your mileage and assuming the body is in good condition, your car should last another 5+ years. I think your options are a) find an indy mechanic who will install parts you source on your own (many will do so, with the caveot they can't warranty the part ) b) do some of the repairs on your own ( example the sway bar end links are two bolts each... you just need to jack up both sides at the same time to avoid torqueing the sway bar) c) fix the safety items first then go from there so as to not drop a big ticket all at once. As to the issues - if the J-tube in the rear is bad that's an easy fix for a shop with a lift. Check out Youtube for vids. Not sure what codes are being thrown to know if the evap shut off valve is also bad but that's a $70 part. Front wheel bearing - are you hearing any noise or vibration from 20-40? this is a hard part to diagnose until they get really bad so you may wait a bit. Front brakes - any shop can do this, Figure 175 to 200 in parts and 2 hours labor = $450.. Power steering pump? any signs of leaks or noise? If no leaks, try refreshing the fluid - You can use a turkey baster, suck out as much of the old fluid, refill with new (check owner's manual for the type but usually its simply ATF ~$6 for a quart). then start the car, turn lock to lock 3-4 times and repeat the purge/fill 3 more times. $6 and you are done. ($10 if you need to buy a new baster). Front struts and spring seats - any thumps going over potholes, speedbumps? Any signs of oil leaks from the struts? Again any shop can do this - I'd estimate $600-650 parts/labor at an indy - but you'll need an alignment for another $100. cracked bushings on rear shocks? unless you have really loud noises, I would leave that for last as its pretty common on a 15 year old car. Besides rear shocks are easy to replace. Hardest part is moving the trunk liner to get at the top nuts. :-) Leaking front axle? Did you take a look at the boot? Any noises like clicking when making a low speed full lock turn? If not the CV joint is likely still good and a shop can replace the boot and repack the grease. If the axle boot it torn, best to get a rebuilt axle. As to the door, check out car-parts.com to find a recycle yard with the part then talk to a local body shop about the install if you don't want to pop off/on the door panel on your own. Another option is searching Craigslist for somebody parting out a similar model.

 

You're responding to a 2011 question.

 

lol, so I am. I hope the car is fixed by now :-)