Hi, I own a '02 S60, first Volvo. Like it alot, so when the new driver needed a car, I looked for S70s and 850s. After reviewing the crap and overpriced junk, found a high-mileage (196k) S70 base model for a reasonable price. Convincing me was that the owner (second, bought in '03) had the repair records. Recently replaced alternator, timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, I forget what else. We pick it up Thursday. Automatic tranny, leather seating appears to be the only option.

The mechanic's notes said rear shocks soft, rear brakes going, sway bar links worn (?). Though it did pass state inspection in August.

Anybody wanna guess what these repairs will cost? I was gonna get fluids and filters changed by my independent Volvo mechanic when he gets his hands on it Friday. Anything else for him to focus on?

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

Sway bar links, parts plus 1 hour. Maybe $190
Rear brakes, they can tell you. The problems with brakes is, they always claim they need to do rotors, etc., Expect $230.
Rear shocks, who knows what they'll say about shock mounts, etc., probably $470.

All of the listed items are pretty easy to repair yourself. If you did the work yourself, the parts would likely cost around $350.

 

You didn't say what MY? Or did i miss it?

 

What's MY, Dog? Model Year? 2000

 

Yes, MY is Model Year; common acronym in the industry.

Look through the repair records; has it got a new ETM (electronic throttle module)? If not, expect to service that in near future. Aftermkt replacement ETM will run you around $700 if you do it yourself.

Research S70s; 2000 was not the best MY.

 

Good luck with the s70. I just bought a 99 T5 for my daughter to get back and forth to soccer practice and occasionally to school. My son will be driving in a few months too. It too is high mileage 172K, 2nd owner. It looks nice, runs great and has all options. I just received my FCP Groton order today for tie rod ends (inner and outer) sway bar links (20.95 ea), control arms, radio antenna and bulb for shifter indicator. The total order shipped was $200. They are a good source for the do it yourselfer. I have replaced 3 door lock actuators, a speaker, fixed the sunroof that wouldn't open (plastic slide cover came off and jammed), had to reglue all the door panels that I took off because the glue is awful and they separated. The gas filler lid stopped working when I took the front door apart to fix the speaker. I spent a couple hours trying to figure out what was wrong (didn't figure it out)and a couple days later it started working again and has worked fine since. I bought 2 new remote cases (Ebay) because the corner broke off them both. I got 1 key with the car and the stealer says $160-$170 for a new key because it is chipped. The rear view mirror broke off in my daughters hand early this week. Fortunately I have a couple junkyards nearby that I have been able to get some misc interior parts, because the plastic in the car seems to break if you breathe on it too hard. I also found some fairly new struts that I am going to put on this weekend too. The receipt was still in the car so I know when they were replaced. I guess what I am getting at is that the car is probably going to keep you busy. I was a certified mechanic 25 yrs ago so I don't mind some tinkering. I paid $3000 for the car and will probably have another $400-$500 into it before I can feel easy about my daughter driving it around. When the work is done, it should be a pretty solid ride. I do all the work myself. If I wasn't mechanically inclined, I would not have bought the car. This site has a lot of knowledgeable folks on it and you can get most information you need to fix almost anything on the car. Use it to save yourself some $$$. Oh, currently shopping for rotors because the brakes squeal bad. That will be next months project.

 

"I was a certified mechanic 25 yrs ago so I don't mind some tinkering." Uh, I'm not. While I do futz around with my '72 RR, I don't have the patience to do it in this car, unless its a bolt in replacement item.

Anyway, had the mechanic go over it today. Ouch. Needs 4 rotors and pads, RF stabilizer link, some body shields (front air guide, RF wheel well skirt), heater core smells, emissions lines, and a few odds and ends. He thought it was a good car for what I paid for it (under $2k). He is a Volvo zealot and told me to fix it all as this was the last year of the all-Volvo car and it will last a long time. And if I didn't want to keep it, he could sell it immediately for what I have into it. His words that sway me are that he'd want a new driver in this car as they'll walk away from a collision just scared, not injured.

In two weeks I'm having him do the brakes all-around and the 180k service (tune up, all fluids). Then we'll chip away at it.

 

If that was all your mechanic found, thats not bad. At the least, shop around for parts online. Google is my mechanic"s helper. I found 4 rotors for around $130 shipped. Thats really good considering how much they weigh. Pads are cheap too as I have experienced in the past but they are like new on this car so I haven't shopped for them. I would think that you could get front and rears for $60-$70. The link is only $20. You would be amazed how easy the brakes are to do. The link has 1 nut on each end and connects the link between the sway bar and strut. It too is very simple. I understand the heater core possibly smelling but the emissions lines? Does it pass emissions test? If it does, I would leave that one alone. Google S70 rotors and S70 brake pads and you will get a lot of info. Add replace to the search and you can probably find a video on how to do it. I am on my way out to finish rebuilding my daughter's front end (struts, control arms, links, inner and outer tie rod ends). Last night I got it tore down and had to stop when I realized I didnt have any Locktite left for the inner tie rod ends. I should be done in an hour after a trip to Autozone. It is an easy car to work on (so far!). Just a shot, but are you in the Atlanta area? I'd be happy to help if you are.

 

In MA, but thanks much for offering. I want to see if I can get the body parts from a local boneyard and do those (air guide, inner fender skirt).

 

An update to the saga. Just got back from the mechanics for a full brake job (front and rear rotors and pads and rear calipers), stabilizer bar links, and a 180k mile service (all fluids and all filters). As IDed by the mechanic:
- air guide missing (skid pad). Can I do this myself on my back with no special tools?
- exhaust going
- delta link anchorages
- emission hose
- Tie rod going
- ABS cu going

Here we go! Any thoughst? Thanks

 

Volvo ABS Control Unit Computer General Information

 

Sway bar Links $190.00,I wonder where you buy your parts at and who service your car.I wouldn,t pay $100.00 for that repair,even if I couldn,t do it myself,just 2 bolts.

 

What is a delta link anchorage? Im 50 yrs old and been around cars most of my life but never heard of that one. Volvo specific part? I wonder if it connects to the dilateral synchronizer shaft ;-) Kidding aside, I wouldnt bother doing the skid pad if you are going to have the exhaust fixed. Pick one up at the junkyard and bring it in with you when you have the exhaust fixed. They will already be underneath the car and depending on what part of the exhaust needs replacing, it may need to be taken off anyway. Outer tie rods are $9.95 at FCP Groton, just put some on my daughter's car. Easy to replace but you need an alignment afterwards. As far as the ABS cu going, does the light go on and off intermittently? If there are no symptoms of it "going", then it's not "going". What emission hose and why does it need replacing? Google your mechanic's recommendations. You will be amazed what you can find!

 

The Delta Link is Volvo's rear suspension marketing-ese for the S70, and I sssume the V70 and C70. My mechanic is a Volvo-only independent shop (Volvo parts and knowledge without the showroom overhead). As soon as the car was on the lift, they were calling out stuff walking from one end to the other (with me), pointing out what was a mess/missing. The emissions hoses near the RR wheel well looked brittle.

The ABS light has not come on, but he ran the computer codes and gave me the results. They were consistent with other info I found on the Web that point to the ABS module.

Yes, my plan is for my daughter and I to walk the local boneyard this month in search of a '98-00. Bonding, who wouldda thought?

 

Ahhh,the trailing arm link. $59.99 at FCP Groton. Looks simple to replace, just 2 bolts. Is the check engine light on? Why else would he check the codes? If the light is not on, perhaps those are old codes that have not been cleared. You usually dont get a code that something is "going". If something goes bad, the check engine light comes on, and a code is stored. Until it goes bad, no light.

 

I got a 99 S70 and have a love hate with it atm. I love the gas mileage and it performs OK but I hate the repairs.

1st thing I had to get for it was a throttle body. I think it was $599 after the core was sent back. XeMODeX Inc. home Apparently the xemodex is the only real fix for the throttle body problem. I hope it doesn't happen to yours.

Next was the heater core. I got one off ebay and it took me about 3 hours and a lot of that was looking for tools. I think I could do it in an hour and a half now. It was easy and not aggravating at all. About $100 in parts and I got a radiator flush out of it.

Next up is flushing the power steering and hoping that it's not the stupid rack.

Plus almost every little piece of rubber underneath. But I suppose what do you expect from a 12 year old car.

Also the radiator is possible leaking. On occasion there is fluid on the passengers side near the bottom of the radiator.

Fortunately the S70s are pretty easy to work on unfortunately they need a lot of pieces and parts after 11 or 12 years.

Good thing the timing belt was replaced! They will trash the motor after about 100k miles like clock work.

Best of luck.

 

and now the ETM has crapped out. Wonderful. Aren't I supposed to love these cars?

 

What did I say; it's only a matter of time...

Agree w/technicalanarchy; xemodex is the fix.

 

If you purchase good quality link or oem links, they will cost you $50 each, then pay a mechanic $90 per hour, which is about average, that will run $190. Simple math.