Seems my car is leaking power steering fluid from the driver's side. I've got a mostly clear liquid and PS fluid is down quite a bit. I couldn't check extensively as it's getting dark here, but are there hoses in that area? Certain items I should check?

 

Check the clamps near the reservoir. On mine the suction hose was swelling up. Make Sure that you get the correct power steering fluid. I think it is the Pentosin CFH 202. Check with dealer first. I think the manual says ATF. WRONG, Problem from what I have been hearing is the the ATF ruins the seals on your rack and pinion, $$$$$$$. I got my fluid from pep boys, It was the 202, $13 per quart versus 30 at the dealer. Check the dealer for the correct fluid before starting, good lucK

 

Well, I figured I'd update this a couple of months later.

I finally got around to getting this into my mechanic. Unfortunately, the lines were not the issue and it's leaking where the shaft comes into the rack, so basically it needs replacement. That being said, the quote is $1,200 for an aftermarket rack installed, now while that already seems high, my mechanic (who always does the right thing) also called Volvo to price out the genuine part and they informed him there is an updated/revised part (I wonder why? lol) that requires lines to be updated as well...that in parts alone? $2,000. Needless to say, I'm sticking with Lucas power steering seal/correct fluid 50/50 mix as I have, and dealing with the few drops every couple of days.

 

I went through a similar issue. It was leaking through the input shaft and I drove it for a year like that until a seal failed on the drivers side. If you're planning on keeping the car then maybe you can use the time you have to source the original rack. It took FCP Euro 2 weeks to find the original rack after I showed them that the rack they had sent was "wrong." The difference between the racks is that one rack has individually threaded lines and the other (my rack) has one bolt that clamps both lines in using a hold down. I wanted my clamped lines so I paid an extra 275.00 for the original rack. It was still cheaper than replacing perfectly good lines. The rack alone cost me 1600.00 and it was an original Volvo complete rack including the inner and outer tie rods, not rebuilt. 1600.00 installed doesn't sound bad to me for a full rack and rods especially if the alignment is included. I have had problems with those stop leak fixes causing pump failure so I stay far away from them.

 

Considering the cars value, throwing in a rack especially at that price is absurd. I'll have it for at best, another year. I can't see why the rack costs that much. I'm looking at an XC70 next. Stop leak it is.

 

it made sense to me when considering the cost to replace the car compared to the cost to replace the part. Buying a new volvo I would be losing 10 -15K the minute I rolled off the lot. Buying a newish used car would drop that number to less than 5K to drive away but I would still be paying 20K+. If I decided to buy old used there is no guarantee I wouldn't be right back were I started in short order but out 500 or so for all of the new old car work that is typically needed assuming that the car was in perfect running order.

Fluid changes
belts
hoses

That price goes up dramatically when shocks, struts, PCV, bushings, power steering, turbo, coil packs, cheap dealer installed tires, or anything else needs to be done. I know what has been done on my car and I know my cars quirks so there aren't any additional surprises around the corner until the Mrs. decides she's tired of the XC60. Then the only surprise will be which car she shops for.

If your not attached to the car and haven't done any of the more expensive maintenance like timing belt, shocks, struts, etc or the car fails the glove test then yeah, it might make more sense to swap to another car. Otherwise, if you look at cost to replace compared to current book value you might find you'll come out ahead to repair the car. Regardless, it doesn't sound like your leak is all that bad.

Personally I would stock up on the power steering fluid and skip the stop leak. Stop leak may really do a number on your power steering pump and, if you're not doing the work, replacing a PS pump is a 350.00 - 500.00 job on the cheap side. Post pump replacement you'll still have a leaking rack with gunk in it that could kill the new pump. Can you tell I really hate stop leak?

 

I'll take your warning into consideration lol. I'll use very little stop leak vs regular fluid when refilling. I had just done the timing belt/tensioner/water pump but enough is enough and this car isn't sticking around, at least not for me or anyone I know.