This is the quote I got from a mechanic. I shudder to think what the dealer will charge. This seems pretty ridiculous considering the parts cost.

Question: is it a pretty straightforward job to replace the pads and rotors on this vehicle? I am pretty handy. Typically how much longer after I come back from the store with the parts do I have to wait for the brakes to cool before the job?

 

First i would use Ome or a good after market rotor and pads.Check the size you may have to remove a tire and put a tape mesaure on it. They have 11"(286mm) and 12"(305mm) rotors for your 06 .Volvo Parts, BMW Parts, European Car Parts | FCPGroton.com is a great place to buy parts from.As far as time after driving None unless you did some very hard breaking.You will need a 7mm Hex head to remove caliper but other than that its a pretty straight forward break job.

 

Thanks very much, MYS6T. Any idea on the torque specs, for both caliper-bracket, bracket-mounting?

 

Anybody? Also, is the bleeding really a 2-person job? How about using a weight for the pedal and just going back and forth.

 

Without a suction pump, bleeding the brakes works way better with two people. Unless you really need the exercise of opening, pumping the brakes, running back to shut it, and starting all over again.

 

buy a motive power bleeder. $40-$50 online. makes short work of the bleeding. i bought one for my R. awesome and 1 man job.

 

Just curious, what was the actual parts cost? Were they OEM parts? Was it for pads only or dose that include replacing and truing the rotors + labor?

 

if thats complete new rotors and pads + labor..might not be too bad. i spend 330 on just parts for the rear brakes in my R a few weeks back. that was for oem parts from tasca.

 

torque specs anybody?

 

Just make everything good-n-tight. I don't torque anything but engine bolts. I have had problems following torque specs on suspension bolts and my son in law, who is a mechanic, said go back and retighten everything and don't use a torque wrench. Turned some bolts as much as 1/4 turn and the clunking went away.

 

Sry have not been on the site in a few days this should help
caliper to caliper bracket - 30 Nm
caliper bracket to spindle - 100 Nm
rotor locating pin - 8 Nm
axle shaft nut -
Step 1 35 NmStep 2 Angle Tighten 90°lug nuts - 140 Nm

 

Use a one man bleeder w/c u could buy from parts stores and they work pretty good.

 

Thanks Jim and MYS6T for the torque advice and specs. Thanks all for the bleeding info!

 

Just replaced all pads on all corners for less than 200 bucks on my R. Bought OEM from IPD for the fronts and mintex for the rears. I did not replace my rotors because they were well within spec even at 75k. They had no skoring either. If you have no vibration under hard braking you may be able to salvage your original rotors too. Don't even have them cut. See what happens. I've been told many times that the all new rotors even factory ones will never be as good as the originals.