2005 s60 2.5T , ok read a lot of treads on replacing the timing belt so i decided to tackle mine this weekend. Having trouble setting the motor up so i can pull the belt off.
Currently have the motor at TDC using the crank timing mark and checking through the #1 cylinder spark plug hole. Cannot find any marks near the cam locations for cam reference ( VVT Cams) see pic. Does anybody have a pic or description for the cam reference, or do i just mark the old belt and transfer that to the new belt.
I can see the marks on the cam they just don't line up with anything on the motor is this due to the VVT? So do i just make my own marks? Also is a cam locking tool needed?
Thanks

 

I just made several marks with a paint pen, then took a couple of pictures from various angles just in case the markings got wiped off.

19k miles later everything is still working fine!

 

All in all was it very difficult to change out the belt? Any special tools needed? Did you do the water pump too? About how long did it take? I'll be needing to do it in about 12000 miles. Thinking about tackling it myself.

 

Thanks Ikey, I ended up doing the same thing, made my own marks, made a cam lock tool and went from there. Car is up a running.
Johnny Volvo- I've replaced a few timing belts in my time but never the Volvo. Earlier cars just had a lot more room to work in.
It was painful. Definitely read all the post in the forum around timing belts before you dive in. Generally anything from the v40,s60 and v70 was helpful.
1. Removed the inner fender (riveted in, need the MTC rivets).
2. Like all the belt replacement post the accessory belt is a big pain. Once i bought the 55 torx bit for the tensioner it actually went back on pretty easy.
3. Don't really have a good measure of how long it took , i had other issues like cleaning everything due to a broken vent pipe to the oil catch, also a leaking power steering pump line. I would say about 3hrs if all i was doing was the belt. Spent a lot of time looking for reference marks for the cams and surfing the web for info.
4. Special Tools- 30mm impact socket for crank pulley, Impact gun.
Cam locking tool (made a wooden one, two grooved wedges with a bolt through the middle to hold it in place).
55 tork bit for accessory belt tensioner.
5. Had to remove inner fender for easy access to lower pulley. Removed the coolant overflow bottle and power steering reservoir for better access to accessory belt and timing belt. This particular year had crimp on hose clamps, so any hose I disconnected replaced with regular hose clamps.
Next time I'll look-up Swedish curse words before I get started.
Thanks to the forum for all the good information.

 

reference the top timing belt cover for slots. Line the dots on the cam gears up with the slots on the cover with the cover installed. when putting the belt on move counterclockwise. you want no slack around the pullys. use a clamp to keep the belt teeth from coming off the crank pulley. Simple as pie. OH and you do not need a "holding tool" just turn the cams with your hand to get them back in time before fitting the belt.

I am not going to say how quickly I can do timing belts on the S and V series Volvos. But its a small fraction of Jerry's estimiate, in above post.

 

It's nice to hear that everything turned out fine!

I didn't even remove the crank pulley when I did mine. Another member on the forum recommended that I remove the plastic shield around the pulley and slowly work the belt through a small S shaped gap. It took some time getting it though without a scratch, but it worked out in the end.

Did you change the tensioner and the normal pulley? How was the water pump?

I made a huge mess removing the pump. I didn't realize how much coolant would come out!

 

Yes, changed out the tensioner and idlers. Left the water pump alone.

 

The timing belt tensioner disintegrated in my wife's 2001 S-80. As a result the car wouldn't start and set a 'timing' related fault code. In taking the timing belt cover off, it appears the exhaust cam had slipped by two teeth. I have two questions for this forum. First: For now, I will assume no valve damage as a result. My intention is to replace the timing belt (and water pump), reassemble and then do a compression check on each cylinder. It seems like, if there is bent, or otherwise damaged valves, this should be evident in the compression check results. Do you smart people in this forum agree?

Second question: The cam timing marks are obvious. However, the crank timing mark not so much. I removed the harmonic balancer/flywheel and can see the timing gear pretty well. I do see the timing mark on the engine (a small 'tit' on the motor case at about 11:00 position). And a prominent ridge cast into the timing gear flange (to which the HB/FW attaches) but, even under magnification, I find no corresponding mark directly on the timing gear? However, the no. 1 cylinder is not at TDC when I align the two timing features. I've read several, conflicting explanations that #1 should, or should not be close to TDC when timing marks are aligned. Can someone please clarify this for me?

FYI due to interference with the motor mount, it was virtually impossible to extract either the timing or serpentine belt without removing the HB flywheel.

 

There is a good YouTube tutorial about timing belt change on a 2.4 NA.