Blown engine? Head job? Oil pressure issue
#1
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2003 S60 2.4t B5244T3 VIN 58 Ser# 2920468
Wife just had to have the car and bought at an auction. We changed the oil every 3000. After a year the oil pressure warnings started. I checked this site and found info about o-ring/pan gasket info. I checked the dipstick when hot and found the tiny bubbles. Great right? So I take to shop and have the seals replaced. On the way there it starts smoking badly out the exhaust, gray of course. Sounds like marbles in the top of the engine. So anyway the tech finds pan was sludged as well as pick up tube. Tech advised and used 1/2 oil & 1/2 kerosene to "flush". Start and run for short periods over a few days type of thing. Tech drained after and found some "globs" but was thinking was ok to drive for 1000 and change again. Smoke was better but still there. Wife drove it for 20 miles and stop engine now oil pressure warnings again. She gets out and checks the stick. It's dry. I had it towed back home and a few hours later checked it to find a full pan. Just right. This tells me it's not draining back down like it should right. So I drain the oil and fill to top with kero for a couple days. Drain, fresh oil, start and run. Then drain, refill with kero for a couple days, drain replace fresh oil. Start and still smokes terribly. Terrible ticking intermitently and smoke is constant at this point. Real nice gew out the tailpipe but just could be moisture ect. If you have read this far I hate to say but has been parked in the cow pasture for months now waiting for tax return to buy a used long block. Now my serial number engine has sent it into astronomical prices! Chilton's has a valve job at more hours than an engine swap. What 6hrs just to replace valve cover gaskets! 15hrs for valve job. 11hrs engine replace? sheesh. What is a guy to do here? Forgot to mention oil press is 50psi at start and gradually dropped to 5 when hot. Compressions all good too. This explains the warnings but not the empty pan. I think a valve guide broke. Sorry for the long post. What do you pros think?
Wife just had to have the car and bought at an auction. We changed the oil every 3000. After a year the oil pressure warnings started. I checked this site and found info about o-ring/pan gasket info. I checked the dipstick when hot and found the tiny bubbles. Great right? So I take to shop and have the seals replaced. On the way there it starts smoking badly out the exhaust, gray of course. Sounds like marbles in the top of the engine. So anyway the tech finds pan was sludged as well as pick up tube. Tech advised and used 1/2 oil & 1/2 kerosene to "flush". Start and run for short periods over a few days type of thing. Tech drained after and found some "globs" but was thinking was ok to drive for 1000 and change again. Smoke was better but still there. Wife drove it for 20 miles and stop engine now oil pressure warnings again. She gets out and checks the stick. It's dry. I had it towed back home and a few hours later checked it to find a full pan. Just right. This tells me it's not draining back down like it should right. So I drain the oil and fill to top with kero for a couple days. Drain, fresh oil, start and run. Then drain, refill with kero for a couple days, drain replace fresh oil. Start and still smokes terribly. Terrible ticking intermitently and smoke is constant at this point. Real nice gew out the tailpipe but just could be moisture ect. If you have read this far I hate to say but has been parked in the cow pasture for months now waiting for tax return to buy a used long block. Now my serial number engine has sent it into astronomical prices! Chilton's has a valve job at more hours than an engine swap. What 6hrs just to replace valve cover gaskets! 15hrs for valve job. 11hrs engine replace? sheesh. What is a guy to do here? Forgot to mention oil press is 50psi at start and gradually dropped to 5 when hot. Compressions all good too. This explains the warnings but not the empty pan. I think a valve guide broke. Sorry for the long post. What do you pros think?
Last edited by rspi; 03-25-2013 at 12:36 PM.
#3
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Hey Rock, I'm not a pro but I have never read anywhere to use kerosene to flush sludge out of a motor. And yes you likely have blocked oil passages in that motor if sludge was found and you used some solvent (in the oil mix) to break it loose. Not sure what to tell you to do unless you want to crack the motor open yourself and rebuild the top end, it's not that hard.
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