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building strut and shocks with all parts

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Old Sep 15, 2019 | 03:28 PM
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Default building strut and shocks with all parts

Hi, new here. I need to replace both struts and shocks on my 2013 S60 AWD. Some parts need to be replaced and since the car has 105K and needs new tires, I figured it is best to just get new legs all around.
The problem is that there are no quick strut assemblies which is really annoying. I do not want Monroes but only Volvo genuine or Sachs. No Beilstein because I beleive there are too hard.
So I looked at building my own. Even that is hard because Volvo seems to have myriad of struts and springs for the same car without clear explaination. I cannot even find OEM springs easily online. I will have to call a specialist on monday for that.

Here is the list of parts I have so far for a full ground up struts and shocks rebuild front and rear:

1 x 139622? Sachs Front Right Strut
1 x 139623? Sachs Front Left Strut
2 x 235240 Volvo Upper Spring Isolator Damper Ring
2 x 139396 Volvo Front Strut Coil Spring Lower Isolator Ring
2 x 120279 Volvo Front Strut Dust Boot Protecting
2 x ? Volvo COIL SPRING - FRONT
2 x 120815 Volvo Upper Spring Seat Strut Mount Bearing
2 x 120814 Volvo Upper Strut Mount Plate
2 x 139751 Sachs Rear Shock
2 x 139395 Volvo Rear Shock Mount

Could you guys tell me if I miss anything? thks
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 10:08 AM
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why do you think you need new struts? Is either showing signs of leaking? Is the car bouncy in the nose? or are you just looking to firm up the ride? In terms of needing new tires, is that due to uneven wear or just miles? If its uneven tire wear, I'd be more inclined to have a shop fully inspect the components that can impact alignment - control arm bushings, tie rods etc and make sure the car is aligned regularly (I need to align my VW CC about every 5000 miles or the tires will cup - don't trust that you only need to align when the car pulls off center).

To your question about rebuilding struts - I'd simply go to a dealer web site (I use Tasca since they are here in New England) and look at a diagram to get all the exact part numbers. I'd also inspect the parts vs simply replacing because you want to build a new shock on the bench. For the extra cost of replacing reuseable parts, you might as well treat yourself to a professional install of the new strut/shocks. IMHO, 105K miles is not "over due" and things like the springs and mounting plates generally don't wear out. You can always buy or rent a spring compressor and reassemble your own. I don't see the strut bumper (buffer) on your list of parts...
31340308 Strut bumper
For replacing your springs, you need to inspect and find the marking number - ie 55,56,57, 61 - IPD's web site has a post on how to find the spring codes on the build plate.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mt6127
why do you think you need new struts? Is either showing signs of leaking? Is the car bouncy in the nose? or are you just looking to firm up the ride? In terms of needing new tires, is that due to uneven wear or just miles? If its uneven tire wear, I'd be more inclined to have a shop fully inspect the components that can impact alignment - control arm bushings, tie rods etc and make sure the car is aligned regularly (I need to align my VW CC about every 5000 miles or the tires will cup - don't trust that you only need to align when the car pulls off center).

To your question about rebuilding struts - I'd simply go to a dealer web site (I use Tasca since they are here in New England) and look at a diagram to get all the exact part numbers. I'd also inspect the parts vs simply replacing because you want to build a new shock on the bench. For the extra cost of replacing reuseable parts, you might as well treat yourself to a professional install of the new strut/shocks. IMHO, 105K miles is not "over due" and things like the springs and mounting plates generally don't wear out. You can always buy or rent a spring compressor and reassemble your own. I don't see the strut bumper (buffer) on your list of parts...
31340308 Strut bumper
For replacing your springs, you need to inspect and find the marking number - ie 55,56,57, 61 - IPD's web site has a post on how to find the spring codes on the build plate.
Thanks for the info. The ride has a shake in the front now. Was inspected by a mechanic a while back who said mount bearing need replacements with isolators. Quote was $1300 well above buying all corners genuine parts and making new assemblies. At 105K miles and considering labor I may as well get new struts and shoot for another 100K+.
As far as the springs I know many people tend to reuse but I got 2 issues: 1, the car cannot be down for over 1/2 day so I do not have much time spared is something is rusted or goes wrong. 2, coils over time are subject to metal fatigue. I had a car I bought a while back where the spring were actually out of spec due to sitting too long. I figured that may be rather than taking old struts appart, I just build new ones. For me a bit of higher costs is better than labor time down.
Tires are old by mileage and front show some wear on the outside lip. Rears have sidewall damage and need to go. Being an AWD and tires being only good with 40% left, they all need to go.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 10:43 AM
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You must travel some rough terrain. I had 2 relatively high mileage V70s - 2003 (157k) and 2009 (142k) Neither required struts/shocks service.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Pretorien
You must travel some rough terrain. I had 2 relatively high mileage V70s - 2003 (157k) and 2009 (142k) Neither required struts/shocks service.
Car is mostly driven in RI. If you know RI and their road servicing, you will understand.. In some states, the local gov giving away 4x4 off road vehicles should be mandatory
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 02:51 PM
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so you can save on shipping by buying dealer parts from Tasca Volvo in Cranston :-) I wonder if they give you the web price with in-store pick ups...

I'd probably start by replacing the tires first and have the wheels checked for balance. Its quite possible you have a bent rim. Normally when struts have issues with the mounts you get a thumping sound going over things like RR tracks, speed bumps and pot holes. vibrations suggest something that's rotating...
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mt6127
so you can save on shipping by buying dealer parts from Tasca Volvo in Cranston :-) I wonder if they give you the web price with in-store pick ups...

I'd probably start by replacing the tires first and have the wheels checked for balance. Its quite possible you have a bent rim. Normally when struts have issues with the mounts you get a thumping sound going over things like RR tracks, speed bumps and pot holes. vibrations suggest something that's rotating...
You are right about the slight shake but I omitted the whole thing started with a clunk when turning the steering and the mechanic diagnosis looking at the thing. The shake is more annoying and came later.
I am going to get a quote+part numbers from Ipd. What is wierd is why is no one making the quick asemblies even from Volvo or sachs? They could charge a bit more and probably sell more because you do not need to know much nor use compress tools just swapping assemblies.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2019 | 08:20 AM
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eEuroparts in CT used to sell quick assembly struts but it looks like they cut back their catalog due to their financial situation. If you are chasing down a clunk and a noise and your struts are not leaking, you may be best off going to a shop who will just replace the mount/bushing and inspect other components. The cost of the springs alone is worth two hours of shop labor. Besides, you still will need to take the car in to get an alignment so getting a shop to do the job and replace only the failed parts seems like a reasonable alternative (as well as only doing the fronts for now). If you can find a shop that will let you supply the parts, that's another consideration. (expect the usual "we can't guarantee the work etc - but this is struts not open heart surgery)
 

Last edited by mt6127; Sep 17, 2019 at 08:23 AM.
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