Coolant level warning light
#1
12-10-2009, 01:46 PM
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Coolant level warning light
For the past 2 weeks I got a coolant level warning light when I started my engine; My 2001 S60 has about 102,000 miles on it. As soon as I saw the warning, I shut the engine off & added 50/50 mixture of coolant to the reservoir. I didn't put too much but just enough to get it just above the low level mark. I had to do this twice & now today the same warning again. I don't see any leaks & my driveway is spotless. Any ideas why this keeps happening? Thanks
#2
12-10-2009, 03:29 PM
Assuming the coolant level reads low, its going somewhere. First test is to park in hot on a dry surface and let it sit. Look for drips underneath. About as much fun and accurate as trying to chase a leaky roof, but if you can follow the dripline up, you'll spot the leak source somewhere (i.e. radiator, hoses, thermostat housing, etc.). That would be good news. Be patient, since you may have only a small volume leak at the present time that looks nothing like Old Faithful erupting.
Option #2 is not good news. Head gasket leaking coolant into combustion chamber and out the exhaust. Any whitish smoke? Have someone follow you and watch as the volume might not look like a new Pope got elected or anything like that.
Option #3 is not good news. Bad heater core. Not sure about modern, long life coolant, but I know the older type when I had a leaky heater core (post radiator flush and refill, btw) smells much like maple syrup. Look and feel inside the car for wet or damp, under the dash. With mine, gray-white "smoke" eventually came out the vents and no Bars Leaks type of product could seal the heater core. Mercury dealer denied all responsibility. I've never had a "power flush" of any system since that happened nearly 18 years ago.
Some pressure testing might be in order. Cooling system and leak down compression test. The latter tests the head gasket.
Option #4 is worst of all, and sort of ties in with #1. Cracked block that opened a coolant passage to the outside or to the inside. Check your dipstick. Foamy, cocoa color? That's indication of mixing of crankcase oil with coolant and points to cracked block, assuming its cracked towards the inside only. Could be through and through, however.
Unless you are a mechanic or an old hippie, you probably don't have a black light to use for a dye test. Might be worth a trip to a trusted shop for this.
Option #2 is not good news. Head gasket leaking coolant into combustion chamber and out the exhaust. Any whitish smoke? Have someone follow you and watch as the volume might not look like a new Pope got elected or anything like that.
Option #3 is not good news. Bad heater core. Not sure about modern, long life coolant, but I know the older type when I had a leaky heater core (post radiator flush and refill, btw) smells much like maple syrup. Look and feel inside the car for wet or damp, under the dash. With mine, gray-white "smoke" eventually came out the vents and no Bars Leaks type of product could seal the heater core. Mercury dealer denied all responsibility. I've never had a "power flush" of any system since that happened nearly 18 years ago.
Some pressure testing might be in order. Cooling system and leak down compression test. The latter tests the head gasket.
Option #4 is worst of all, and sort of ties in with #1. Cracked block that opened a coolant passage to the outside or to the inside. Check your dipstick. Foamy, cocoa color? That's indication of mixing of crankcase oil with coolant and points to cracked block, assuming its cracked towards the inside only. Could be through and through, however.
Unless you are a mechanic or an old hippie, you probably don't have a black light to use for a dye test. Might be worth a trip to a trusted shop for this.
#4
12-17-2009, 03:45 PM
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Assuming the coolant level reads low, its going somewhere. First test is to park in hot on a dry surface and let it sit. Look for drips underneath. About as much fun and accurate as trying to chase a leaky roof, but if you can follow the dripline up, you'll spot the leak source somewhere (i.e. radiator, hoses, thermostat housing, etc.). That would be good news. Be patient, since you may have only a small volume leak at the present time that looks nothing like Old Faithful erupting.
Option #2 is not good news. Head gasket leaking coolant into combustion chamber and out the exhaust. Any whitish smoke? Have someone follow you and watch as the volume might not look like a new Pope got elected or anything like that.
Option #3 is not good news. Bad heater core. Not sure about modern, long life coolant, but I know the older type when I had a leaky heater core (post radiator flush and refill, btw) smells much like maple syrup. Look and feel inside the car for wet or damp, under the dash. With mine, gray-white "smoke" eventually came out the vents and no Bars Leaks type of product could seal the heater core. Mercury dealer denied all responsibility. I've never had a "power flush" of any system since that happened nearly 18 years ago.
Some pressure testing might be in order. Cooling system and leak down compression test. The latter tests the head gasket.
Option #4 is worst of all, and sort of ties in with #1. Cracked block that opened a coolant passage to the outside or to the inside. Check your dipstick. Foamy, cocoa color? That's indication of mixing of crankcase oil with coolant and points to cracked block, assuming its cracked towards the inside only. Could be through and through, however.
Unless you are a mechanic or an old hippie, you probably don't have a black light to use for a dye test. Might be worth a trip to a trusted shop for this.
Option #2 is not good news. Head gasket leaking coolant into combustion chamber and out the exhaust. Any whitish smoke? Have someone follow you and watch as the volume might not look like a new Pope got elected or anything like that.
Option #3 is not good news. Bad heater core. Not sure about modern, long life coolant, but I know the older type when I had a leaky heater core (post radiator flush and refill, btw) smells much like maple syrup. Look and feel inside the car for wet or damp, under the dash. With mine, gray-white "smoke" eventually came out the vents and no Bars Leaks type of product could seal the heater core. Mercury dealer denied all responsibility. I've never had a "power flush" of any system since that happened nearly 18 years ago.
Some pressure testing might be in order. Cooling system and leak down compression test. The latter tests the head gasket.
Option #4 is worst of all, and sort of ties in with #1. Cracked block that opened a coolant passage to the outside or to the inside. Check your dipstick. Foamy, cocoa color? That's indication of mixing of crankcase oil with coolant and points to cracked block, assuming its cracked towards the inside only. Could be through and through, however.
Unless you are a mechanic or an old hippie, you probably don't have a black light to use for a dye test. Might be worth a trip to a trusted shop for this.
#5
01-04-2010, 09:09 PM
if the coolant is topped up and you don't need to top it up each day then its ok and possibly down to the system check system which is normal,
if the light stays on you have a problem or a sticking sender unit but as it goes off I don't think its a problem.
newer cars have a built in self test which does what it says and any faults are displayed on the digital panel if you have one like the radio stations show on this panel
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if the light stays on you have a problem or a sticking sender unit but as it goes off I don't think its a problem.
newer cars have a built in self test which does what it says and any faults are displayed on the digital panel if you have one like the radio stations show on this panel
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download cricket wallpapers
#6
01-07-2010, 06:14 AM
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Coolant level warning light
Sorry it took so long to reply, but finding the leak was like watching grass grow. After checking the heater core, thermostat gasket & etc.,.. everything was checking out fine till I decided to keep the car running for a while & checking all the hoses while the engine was running. I finally found the problem. Luckily all it was was a hose clamp that shifted & was causing the fluid to slowly drip out. After re-adjusting the clamp & tightening it, that solved the problem. Something simple for fixing such an annoying problem.... Thanks to everyone for their input & ideas.
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