So my Low beam light stopped working, so I opened up the casing to take out the bulb, and I noticed that the little Female connector that plugs into the back of the light to give it power was busted in half. I dont even want to start thinking about HOW it happened, but now I'm looking the net for that part, to replace it. No luck at all. Does anyone know what this part is called exactly?!? Thanks!

 

Don't know where to find one but coincidentally mine broke today as well. I pulled the rest of the plastic off the two connectors and connected them individually to the male prongs on the light element. The yellow wire went on top. Works fine and it is protected by the cap.

 

Would be best to get a new harness. I think they are pretty cheap.

 

Ive had the same problem. Definately want to purchase the harness yourself (about 10 bucks with shipping). Here is where i got mine: www.automotivelightingusa.com. I got the nokya H7 heavy duty wiring harness and had a my local mechanic install it. If you are handy at all you can do it yourself, it is just some simple soldering. Now can anyone explain why my other low beam keeps unplugging itself? How did volvo manage to make the headlight such an awful component for S60's?

 

On our recently purchased 2004 S60 I noticed the right headlight beam was angled up and tried to adjust the bulb placement. It took me 30 minutes or so to figure out why the wire pressure spring would not properly fit over the female connector.......whomever had previously replaced a bulb had placed the spring somewhat over the female connector and the bulb wasn't seated properly. I finally "broke the code" by taking the connector off the bulb and realized that the wire connector only holds the bulb into the fixture and then you connect the female connector. Unless I'm mistaken, the wire pressure spring on my former 1995 850 and my existing 2001 V70 can pass over the female plug which makes installing a new bulb much easier.

 

I've had several connectors crumble, the result of thermal breakdown (headlights on in daytime).

You can find ceramic / high-temp replacement connectors at:

Headlight Repair Connectors and Socket Assemblies

If you are good with soldering gun / heat shrink tubing, just go for it. Otherwise, get the replacement connectors, and find someone who can solder them in.

 

I acutally had this happen as well. I took it to the dealer and they actually sell the small plastic piece by it self. The service writer even took the time to replace it for me. All it cost was about $7 for the piece of plastic and he didnt charge me any labor as it took him about 5 minutes.

 

I guess the moronic Volvo Engineers were unaware of Bakelite, an American plastic developed 80 years ago that is uber heat resistant. The female connector housings are garbage. Shame on Volvo.

 

Not making any excuses, but I'm guessing that the OEM plastic connector was designed with the assumption of turning headlights off in the daytime, then for certain models, keeping the headlights on during the daytime was added by the safety engineers to the firmware. They failed to consider how hot the bulb gets in the daytime.

NOTE: If you are replacing the connector with ceramic version, you probably should trim off the "squeeze ears" on the new connector, because they exceed the dimensions of the original connector, and make it nearly impossible to install the bulb in the socket.

 

How to replace Headlight socket broken

 

The answers are in this thread. A new harness or connector from the dealer or a new connector spliced in. The H7 connectors are available on ebay and other online sources.

 

I bought a connector from OReily for

 

2006 Volvo XC70...185K and still going strong! Drivers side low beam headlight went out and discovered the headlight socket was broken, melted, etc. Purchased the Universal headlight socket for the H8/H11 bulb (part #84783) from AutoZone ($8 bucks), which only has two wires instead of three like the original socket. No issue, simply cut off the two wires on the right side of the original socket and spliced them together to the one wire on the new socket. Then spliced the single wire on the left side of the old socket to the other wire on the new socket. Done in about 20 minutes. You will need to remove the air filter box in order to have room to do the re-wiring and there is a great youtube video which explains how to do it. Followed the instructions and had the air filter box out in less than 5 minutes. I did Sauter the wires, because I know how to do it, but simple wire connectors and electric tape will work also.