I have a 2006 Volvo s60 and I'm wanting to put in a second alternator for some subwoofers trying to make a compact bass mobile basically to bring to meets and car shows but I'm curious if they make alternator kits to install a second alternator into the car I haven't found one on Amazon but maybe someone knows a good website for it? Just one of my 12 Inch subs is using alot of the power. Lights get very dim. And my end goal is it get 3 12s and maybe 2 18s possibly more if I can find some room but I'm not gonna have rear seats at that point anyways I'm just doing baby steps so I would need a high output alternator to keep up with the load.

 

Do you have an amplifier hooked up with your sub? I can't see how a 12" sub would draw that much power if it was. I had 2 1kw 12" subs in my 96 850 and they worked just fine with my amplifier. Not a lot of room for another alternator and not really sure if that would even solve your problem .

 

I do have an amp but I still need to put in a second alternator bc of the amount of power I will eventually use it's estimated around 7,650 watts ATM depending if I want to push more in the future. But yhea it would confuse me now but it might just be bc it's a different model? Idk but when my bass hits on my way to work this morning my lights got pretty dark but yhea that's what I was Afraid of bc I don't really want to do some body modifications bc that just gets too expensive. For the fact I was trying to do this as a budget type of build so least amount of car modifications with one of my friends. But I'll keep looking around to see if I can figure something out. Just taking baby steps into this.

 

Pushing all that in the end may call for another alternator and potentially battery too. Ive never done any over the top audio mods, but I would check your ground for the amp and make sure its secure.

You can also make sure your current alternator is working properly and check voltage while the car is running (turn the radio off) and look for 14-14.5V.

 

Yhea last time I checked it was good I'll check again to make sure and the ground should be good but I'll double check and grind more of the surface to make sure there's better contact. And I knew I was gonna need a another alternator and battery to begin with but couldn't find much use online but I just found a alternator that should go on my car and it's 250amp so I can replace mine with this one and then if I can find space I can get another one but I feel like i would have to put in a bigger fuse but not sure bc I don't wanna fry my electrical or something. But definitely gonna get another battery regardless

 

Wish I could help more, but I wish you good luck in your boombastic bass setup. Takes me back to setting off car alarms in the parking lots. Space for another alternator will be tough, not a lot of room on that side of the engine.

 

Ah, to be 19 again -

You won't find a way to install a second alternator - But that 250 amp alternator looks interesting! Are you using any caps? (as a third power source)
https://www.powerbastards.com/prodde...3801-250-HD1-3

 

Oh I Completely forgot about them! So my friend got a 3k cap for car audio and he suggested to just give it to me only issue it might not work he's had it for like a year now and he got it from his mom's friend he used to work for sundown audio at least that's what I was told.

 

I'd question the math on the 7000+ watts. Keep in mind stereo system amp wattage is telling you the RMS value going to the speakers before a distortion metric (ie wave clipping) occurs. Quite often amp fact sheets provide an IPP rating - the instantaneous peak power, not the true sustained power of the amp. Also, the peak wattage rating on the speaker is telling you how much power the coils can handle before a melt down. A better way to figure out the power draw is to look the amp's spec. By example, a JL VX600 mono sub amp is rated at 400W RMS @4 ohms/ 600W at 2ohms and gets fused at 50 amp. Since these amps are also stable down to 2 ohms you can match the amp to the speakers - say your subs are rated at 4 ohms. You can run 2 in parallel which reduces the amp's load to 2 ohms and push both speakers with 600W RMS. Not saying here you don't need a bigger or second alternator (considering most car alternators are in the 120A range). If you drop in something like this https://www.powerbastards.com/prodde...1091-250-HD1-2 - you will get another 150A above factory, which should be good enough to push 4 big boy power amps with enough money left over for that trip to the hospital when your ears start to bleed...

 

My current amp is 1500 watts RMS @1ohm. 930@2 550@4 and all of the subs I was going to get would be a minimum of 1250watts RMS it was just an estimate but I would also be putting in new door speakers and some tweeters oh and more subs. But probably won't happen to the full extent I want bc of engine space but I'm still wanting to put as much as I can

 

Quick update my friend gave me the capacitor not sure if it works so I ordered stuff to clean all the grounds to make sure it's good and some ,l12 gauge wire bc it's a little bigger than the stuff I got rn and it gives me an excuse to take the sub out bc the sub was upside down so the brand name was upside doesn't effect the sub but just annoyed me. And only way I can put a second alternator looks like I'll have to make a custom mount and either 1 cut the hood and build a plate so no water gets in or 2 put some hood spacers or something to lift the hood but then there will be gaps and look ugly. And getting the 250amp alternator. If I do get a different vehicle for this project im still going to keep my Volvo bc well there's 330,000 miles on it and it starts and drives like brand new only gotta replace a rotor and caliper. But we will eventually see what plan I decide to go with bc I still think it would be really cool to have a small car with a bunch of subs don't normally see it normally see suv and stuff with a ton of subs I should get the capacitor in this weekend depending on the weather.

 

If only that was true. I put the 160 amp alt in my car for a single sub and 2750w rms amp. And it still dims my lights significantly. Now as far as him adding a second from what I keep running into. It'll have to be custom bracket to mount it and finding a belt to fit it.