Today I had removed the negative battery cable for half and hour. Replaced the cable and made multiple stop today, the car started fine.

Just went to a store came out and I got the immobilizer warning light....no crank.

Errrrr!!! There I sit with my broken leg and crutch. Finally saw someone I know that gave me a ride home.

Did removing the negative cable do something and can the car learn my key again without a dealer?

I really dislike all this computer crap but what are ya gonna do?

Help please.

 

Disconnecting the negative cable doesn't really work. Found that out regarding setting codes working on car. You have to hold the negative cable to the positive cable for 30+ sec.

I bought my S60 used in Sept. The fob key spring for the key is broken. I discovered that I have to put the key in so the fob hangs straight out, and not hang 90deg down (hanging down put the fob out of range of the reader). The fob is basically an RFID chip and around the ignition switch is the reader for it. The reader could be or is going south on you. It's a small harness really, but getting to it looks like a bear of a job. Not sure if either points of info are helpful, but putting it out there.

 

I've read stories of people getting immobilized in areas that were not safe. All this because of the possibility someone may steal a car. How does that help you when you are in a bad area of --- let's say Detroit or Baltimore?

All this computerized stuff gets very, very old at times.

 

It's nothing related to disconnecting the battery. Probably either a bad key or antenna ring. The antenna ring is not a hard job at all. Just three screws and the lower column cover comes off.

 

I'd be working with my broken leg, are the screws easy to get to? Since I can't start the car, setting the wheel in a straight position to remove the cover may not be possible. Will that cause a problem for removal of cover?

Do you need to re-program the key after the new key antenna?

 

The screws are on the underside of the column. You don't need to turn the wheel, but it might be tricky getting under there with a broken leg.

No reprogramming needed with a new antenna ring.

 

I was joking last night with my wife. A friend that helps me when I need an extra hand for car help and I help him when he needs an extra hand.

A while ago he broke his foot and has one of those big boots on the foot. I said I can call him for and the two of us will be a site trying to work on the Volvo. You'll have him in his big boot walking around and me with my crutches walking around.

His broken foot with boot might be able to get under the column better than me.

It is in a parking lot, sitting in direct view of a Starbucks. It would be a good show for the people while they drink their coffee.

 

I can tell you for a fact it is not the antenna ring. I bought one today, installed it and still the same thing....no start.

There are some clicking of relays but nothing tries to engage the starter solenoid.

I can see the one electrical lug on the solenoid and a few days ago I sprayed it with PB blaster hoping that perhaps that was the corroded connection. There has to be another connector but I can't see it from the front of the engine.

A few years ago my son's Saturn L200 started the same problem. He is a college student, short on funds. I took a remote push button hand starter switch, attached it to the solenoid and routed it to a safe place under the hood. Now to start his car he has to put the key in position III, open the hood, push the button and the car starts.

From searching the Internet my situation is not unusual. With my broken leg I can only do so much and this may be a time that the car has to be towed for someone else to do the work. Could even be a key and that would call for a VIDA key update.

 

Corrosion at the starter or a bad starter won't display the immobilizer light the first time you insert the key and try to start. So you'll likely need VIDA for this one

 

The immobilizer light doesn't come one the first time I try to start. It takes multiple tries and then the immobilizer light illuminates.

How extensive is VIDA at finding faults in the car system?

There was an odd thing I found laying in the bottom column cover. It may have been there for a long time and from something someone did years ago. There was a spring and a brass post looking piece.

Took pictures.

At first I thought these two pieces were not related but then I notices that the spring fit very well into the open barrel. This could be related to the none start.

 

if you have two keys, does it do the same with second key?

 

Only have one key.

To get another key to try I have to have the car towed to the dealer.

 

Ah okay. The immobilizer light will come on if you keep trying to start it without removing and reinserting the key.

I'd check power at the solenoid when cranking next.

 

Thanks

I'm getting it towed today.

My broken leg says ouch to anything deeper into the engine bay.

I' thinking that the brass pin and spring may be part of the steering lock. We'll see once the car is started and the wheel can be turned much easier. If the wheel doesn't lock anymore I will not loose one second of sleep.

 

If anyone is still following this the problem is fixed. It was the connector at the starter. The garage cleaned / crimped it and it starts every time.

Normally I would have done it but with a fractured leg (upper and lower Fibula) I needed some help. The good thing is I found an honest garage. They could have easily said it was the starter, installed one and stood back and said --- see it starts now.

The work order says - "signal wire connector at the starter - some corrosion, cleaned terminal and end crimped - vehicle started."

Fixed it for some labor time -- $79.50.

I will most definitely give them a good write up and recommend them to my Mercedes driving friends.