Loss of compression and no crank signal
#1
Loss of compression and no crank signal
Hello everyone, I'm here with a dilemma.
I have 2004 Volvo S60 with 2.4 NA engine and 5 speed manual transmission.
There's a TL;DR; at the end.
A little over a month ago, the engine stalled while driving. I couldn't get it to start, but was able to coast into the first parking lot on the side of the road, which was a church. I cranked the engine over, but couldn't get it to start.. I had an OBDII scanner in the trunk, which returned the following codes:
When I continued to crank the engine, I noticed that the tachometer did not move from 0 RPMs. That night, my roommate gave me a ride home and I ended up leaving the car in the church parking.
The next morning, I returned with some tools and removed/reseated the sensor and its connector with no success. After work that day, I was able to locate a replacement crank sensor from a dealer and installed it - no change.
The original and the new crankshaft position sensors.
With no luck, I had the car towed home.
The following morning, I resumed diagnosing the issue. I swapped the sensors, check for a broken/frayed wire, but did not find anything. I also removed the ECU and confirmed continuity from the sensor side to the ECU pins. Afterwards, when I was testing/cranking, the engine wasn't consistent... As if, the timing belt had slipped!!! (There is oil leaking on the belt side of the engine, which is quite possible)
The diagnostics took a different turn. I got my old compression gauge, and tested with the first two cylinders - it tested at 60 PSI on one cylinder and 90 PSI on the second...
I then took the accessory belt, and timing belt cover off. When it was time to turn the engine to align the cams, I noticed it was missing the 30 mm crank bolt. Found a new one and installed it. Aligned the camshaft, and confirmed that both cams and the crank was still in time.
Removed the timing belt, wiped the oil off anything I can, and washed the oily timing belt with dish soap. I then realigned the cams and crank and re-installed the timing belt to continue testing. This time, I tested all cylinders, which yielded very low compression.
#1 - 34 psi
#2 - 38 psi
#3 - 20 psi
#4 - 10 psi
#5 - 30 psi
It seems like there are bent valves, but it doesn't make any sense, since the cam/crank are all lined up. Just as a precaution, I also took pictures of the timing marks.
Crankshaft, Exhaust Cam, and Intake Cam timing marks
For my next step, I have purchased a borescope to check for bent valves. It should arrive by end of day tomorrow.
TL;DR;
Does anyone have any idea as to what may have happened?
I have 2004 Volvo S60 with 2.4 NA engine and 5 speed manual transmission.
There's a TL;DR; at the end.
A little over a month ago, the engine stalled while driving. I couldn't get it to start, but was able to coast into the first parking lot on the side of the road, which was a church. I cranked the engine over, but couldn't get it to start.. I had an OBDII scanner in the trunk, which returned the following codes:
- P0420 (Stored) - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
This is an intermittent code caused by an exhaust leak between the head and catalytic converter.
- P0339 (Pending) - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
This was a code I never encountered.
When I continued to crank the engine, I noticed that the tachometer did not move from 0 RPMs. That night, my roommate gave me a ride home and I ended up leaving the car in the church parking.
The next morning, I returned with some tools and removed/reseated the sensor and its connector with no success. After work that day, I was able to locate a replacement crank sensor from a dealer and installed it - no change.
The original and the new crankshaft position sensors.
With no luck, I had the car towed home.
The following morning, I resumed diagnosing the issue. I swapped the sensors, check for a broken/frayed wire, but did not find anything. I also removed the ECU and confirmed continuity from the sensor side to the ECU pins. Afterwards, when I was testing/cranking, the engine wasn't consistent... As if, the timing belt had slipped!!! (There is oil leaking on the belt side of the engine, which is quite possible)
The diagnostics took a different turn. I got my old compression gauge, and tested with the first two cylinders - it tested at 60 PSI on one cylinder and 90 PSI on the second...
I then took the accessory belt, and timing belt cover off. When it was time to turn the engine to align the cams, I noticed it was missing the 30 mm crank bolt. Found a new one and installed it. Aligned the camshaft, and confirmed that both cams and the crank was still in time.
Removed the timing belt, wiped the oil off anything I can, and washed the oily timing belt with dish soap. I then realigned the cams and crank and re-installed the timing belt to continue testing. This time, I tested all cylinders, which yielded very low compression.
#1 - 34 psi
#2 - 38 psi
#3 - 20 psi
#4 - 10 psi
#5 - 30 psi
It seems like there are bent valves, but it doesn't make any sense, since the cam/crank are all lined up. Just as a precaution, I also took pictures of the timing marks.
Crankshaft, Exhaust Cam, and Intake Cam timing marks
For my next step, I have purchased a borescope to check for bent valves. It should arrive by end of day tomorrow.
TL;DR;
- I was driving and engine stalled.
- OBDII scanner returned codes P0420 (existing) and P0339 (new).
- The ECU does not seem to be not reading the RPMs from the crank sensor.
- Reseated crank sensor and connector.
- Replaced crank sensor with new one.
- Tested connection to ECU pins - confirmed connectivity
- Cylinders now have very low compression.
- Front side of the engine has oil leak - not sure whether it's crank or cam seal.
- The 30 mm crank nut was missing, it has been since replaced.
- Timing marks were not off.
- Removed and reinstalled timing belt - no change.
Does anyone have any idea as to what may have happened?
#2
missing the 30 mm crank bolt. Found a new one and installed it. Aligned the camshaft, and confirmed that both cams and the crank was still in time.
This time, I tested all cylinders, which yielded very low compression.
#1 - 34 psi#2 - 38 psi#3 - 20 psi#4 - 10 psi#5 - 30 psi
It seems like there are bent valves, but it doesn't make any sense, since the cam/crank are all lined up.
Does anyone have any idea as to what may have happened?
This time, I tested all cylinders, which yielded very low compression.
#1 - 34 psi#2 - 38 psi#3 - 20 psi#4 - 10 psi#5 - 30 psi
It seems like there are bent valves, but it doesn't make any sense, since the cam/crank are all lined up.
Does anyone have any idea as to what may have happened?
More than likely you have bent valves. It's a DIY job, just takes a lot of time and patience. Be sure to use new torque to yield head bolts. Sorry for your troubles
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Quadraphonic (09-06-2021)
#3
Update:
hoonk, you were correct; the crankshaft timing gear was stripped. The day I visited the Pull-A-Part in and pulled another one. to replace it with.
The old and the replacement timing gear
My concern is with the splines on my crankshaft; some of the splines are worn. What do you guys think? Is it safe to use, maybe with some red thread locker?
Here's the crank from the car I pulled the timing gear from:
The crank at Pull-A-Part
hoonk, you were correct; the crankshaft timing gear was stripped. The day I visited the Pull-A-Part in and pulled another one. to replace it with.
The old and the replacement timing gear
My concern is with the splines on my crankshaft; some of the splines are worn. What do you guys think? Is it safe to use, maybe with some red thread locker?
Here's the crank from the car I pulled the timing gear from:
The crank at Pull-A-Part
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