Low/ No oil pressure warning- '01 S60
I have an 01 S60 72K miles. About 2 weeks ago I got a "no oil pressure warning, stop car ASAP" message, not steady,it would go on & off randomly, oil was a bit low & in need of a change. Next day I started the car, no message. I did an oil change (Castrol syntec 10W30) and no message. Took a trip upstate this past weekend and at about the 2:30 hr mark I was going up hill & the message came back, it would flash on & off then stayed on steady- no change in car performance. When I reached where i was going I shut down & then re-started- no message. 2 days later on way home, again @ 2:30 hr mark- this time flat ground- message came back, randomly going on & off then was steady for about 15-20mins till I got home. Shut down & restarted no message, checked oil- level & color fine. Have been doing short driving since & no message, but I'm afraid to take a long trip, haven't seen any sludge when changing the oil & there has been no noticeable change in performance, I heard it could be the oil pan O rings & Volvo gave me a qoute of $1400 to change them. Is there anything I could look for for signs of sludge or for signs of O ring failure?
The oil pan has to come off to know for sure.
Or you can connect an oil pressure guage to know 100% for sure if the pressure is dropping.
But yes the common failure is the o-rings. I just did a set yesterday.
Or you can connect an oil pressure guage to know 100% for sure if the pressure is dropping.
But yes the common failure is the o-rings. I just did a set yesterday.
$1400 sounds bloody rude! I did mine in about 5 hours, just before the Doc sent me to hospital in an ambulance, so I wasn't in the best of shape while doing it. I'd reckon you need about 3 hours to do it yourself, see my thread on the same problem and you'll find one of the guy's who responded has the o-ring kits for about $29. The Loctite anaerobic sealer is Loctite 515 which also cost about $30. Don't cut the tip off the tube: just push a hole through the tip, and you will get just the right amount to form the gasket as long as you put a continuous bead on the surfaces and around the bolt holes. It's very forgiving stuff: it won't start setting until you put the pan back in place. I put a bolt in each corner, and pulled them up hand tight, then put the rest in and torqued them all after they were all hand tight. Seems to have sealed perfectly. A couple of the bolts on the right side rear of the pan were a bit awkward to get at. You'll need a 10mm 1/4 drive socket with a universal and extensions to get them after releasing them with a ring spanner. They weren't as hard to put back as they were to get out.
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