I have a 2001 S-60 2.4 T with 83,000 miles. I just replaced all rotors and pads. The braking efficiency was good, though pulsating before the work, but now the braking is not as effective. Feels like I'm not going to get stopped at the end of the braking.

I used Castrol LMA DOT 4&5 fluid that was three years old, but sealed tightly in the bottle and clean. I cleaned the rotors twice with brake parts cleaner. I made sure the caliper springs were reinstalled correctly.

I bled the brakes the same as in the past: bleed nipple open, pedal down, nipple closed, pedal up all while the engine was running.

Are the brakes just getting broken in, or do I have a problem?

Thanks

George Harper

 

Non-volve specific answer, but I can think of a couple of things. First, are the pads glazed? That is, were they broken in with controlled, gentle stops or not? Mechanic can check by removing caliper and looking.

Second, what type of pads did you get? "Racing" pads are notoriously poor stoppers unless warmed up as they'd be on the racetrack. So that first stop tends to be long.
Unless you're going racing where repeated hard stops are the order of the day, stay away from "racing" type pads.

Sounds like you bled the brakes properly, so culprit # 1 has been cleared of suspicion.

 

if you dont mind me asking, what brand components did you use for the brake job?

 

Thanks for the replies. I used OEM Volvo rotors and pads, not racing components. I had had the front pads for about three years, but they were new in the box. I cleaned the rotors twice with brake cleaner and a clean rag. The caliper springs were put back on properly.

All my stops have been gentle except two and they wern't that bad. If you have to stop, you have to stop. The brake job is five days old. Immediately I went on a 80 mile round trip. I think the braking is getting better, but not back to 100%. I checked the vacuum booster and it is working.

Maybe the pads are not fully glazed yet?

George Harper

 

80 miles is not enough to break in the pads and rotors without a specific break in procedure. If you still don't think the brakes are up to par in a few hundred miles, then recheck your work, but it sounds fine to me. If the fluid was never opened, it will be fine.

 

Sounds like the springs are not on correctly. It has happened to people on at least 2 two other forums I know of. They changed out the parts, then braking was poor. They thought the springs were on right, but they weren't. When they put the springs back on right everything was back to normal.

 

The old Castrol LMA brake fluid had been opened, but the cap was put back on tightly, and after all, it is a low moisture formula. It also looked good with a clear yellow color. I don't see how that could be a problem, but am open to contrary opinions.

I believe the springs are on correctly. I looked at each of them again through the wheel. The prongs are in the holes, and the vertical part is behind the caliper ears. I tapped the ends into the holes with a hammer. I've wondered what the two little rollers are on the front springs. Should they be behind the caliper ears?