I recently got a 2006 S60 2.5t with a blown head gasket. I have since then removed and replaced the head gasket and am now working on the timing belt and components replaced. The kit that i got included the water pump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, and timing belt idler pulley. The belt doesn't seem to want to go around all of the components. I made sure when i got the component kit that I got the one that was for my engine serial number, even if the belt works on both variants of the engine.
The belt that came in the kit was a Gates T331, and it seems a few inches too short.
I first tried to place the belt around the intake cam sprocket and idler pulley, then proceeded to go around the tensioner and and water pump, but would not have enough slack to go around the exhaust sprocket. Any ideas?

 

Have you compared to the original belt?

 

Is the tensioner still compressed? You can verify the part number using the engine's B code with the supplier or buy an OEM belt, Check out link for a diagram and part numbers

https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2006/volvo/s60/t5-trim/2-4l-l5-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-parts-scat

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-high-performance-timing-belt-tensioner-kit-minor-tbkit331b-rb

Did you check if your model fits the serial number break as noted by FCP?

 

Figured out the issue.
Seeing that I could not remove the harmonic balancer, had to remove the lower timing cover again and saw that there was part of the casting of the block in the way of the belt. I slipped the belt past that and it now fits perfectly.

On another note for next time, does anyone know how to remove a harmonic balancer nut that is seized on to the crankshaft? Tried to remove this one with a five foot cheater bar on a breaker bar. Rotated the damn bar almost 90 degrees when an impact grade 1/2 in extension broke. Thinking I put about 1200 ft/lbs of force and the damn thing never broke free.

 

only thing I can think of doing differently is to hose down the nut with PB Blaster every couple days for a week or two and drive it around wet before trying again. I know that for older Audis (I used to own an 84 4000Q), that nut was the bain of all timing belt jobs and techs used a similar approach with a very long cheater bar.