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My 2005 S60 has 157k miles and has a few flaws and I am wondering how much I still should invest, since I don't do repairs myself and currently don't have the funds to invest in a much newer car.
It could use a set of ignition coils (plugs were replaced), transmission fluid change, parking sensor replacement, ABS warning comes on frequently.
Now that I heard a sound from the front left, a mechanic told me that the top part of the strut (bushing) has disappeared. He said that it's not a big thing to worry about, but I am wondering if this is a small thing to repair or if a set of new struts would be the only way to eliminate the problem?
My 2005 S60 has 157k
1. It could use a set of ignition coils (plugs were replaced),
2. transmission fluid change,
3.parking sensor replacement,
4.ABS warning comes on frequently.
5.Now that I heard a sound from the front left, a mechanic told me that the top part of the strut (bushing) has disappeared.
1. Why? Coils are replaced one at a time when they are bad. Not just for fun.
2. Certainly a good idea to do a drain and fill with the CORRECT fluid every 50k or so.
3. Was it crushed? Do you care if you get a warning beep if too close?
4. That could be safety related - always advised my customers to fix abs problems
5. A Common replacement is the "strut cushion" or "spring seat". The rubber bushing between the body and the spring/shock. As long as the struts still dampen the motion of the car replacing the cushion is an economical choice (on just the side it is broken) I can replace one in less than 30 minutes - (have replaced hundreds) - shop may charge 1-1.5 hours labor. If you can turn the large nut on the top of the strut - the strut cushion is torn. Alignment afterward is optional - my shops never did and had no wear problems.
Thanks for posting, see my responses inserted below...
Originally Posted by hoonk
1. Why? Coils are replaced one at a time when they are bad. Not just for fun.
Others (like FCP Euro) recommend to replace all. Had misfiring in #2 a few months ago and used an aftermarket coil, now #5 does the same. Put in the same brand, but it happened again.
2. Certainly a good idea to do a drain and fill with the CORRECT fluid every 50k or so.
Will have that done.
3. Was it crushed? Do you care if you get a warning beep if too close?
No crush, but also no beep.
4. That could be safety related - always advised my customers to fix abs problems
It's a frequent message, not consistent. Have to say that the electric in that car had other problems too.
5. A Common replacement is the "strut cushion" or "spring seat". The rubber bushing between the body and the spring/shock. As long as the struts still dampen the motion of the car replacing the cushion is an economical choice (on just the side it is broken) I can replace one in less than 30 minutes - (have replaced hundreds) - shop may charge 1-1.5 hours labor. If you can turn the large nut on the top of the strut - the strut cushion is torn. Alignment afterward is optional - my shops never did and had no wear problems.
Thanks for that hint. Better do both? How long does it take to replace the struts?
Fcp recommends replacing them all because they make more money. I always replaced them one at a time (using a bosch, oem or Volvo coil) Out of a few thousand cars - 2 needed all the coils. We would replace one and soon another would need, then a Third - would replace the remaining 2 after that. Sure the customer was frustrated - but it was less than 1/10% of all the cars I put coils on. And all the other customers were happy with their 1 replacement coil that fixed their problem.
"Put in the same brand but it did it again" - on the same cylinder? Has anyone checked compression if so? What brand of spark plugs were used? I only use the factory Volvo plugs, have seen problems with some aftermarket plugs.
First thing for the abs would be a scan with a compatible scan tool. A common fault is cracked solder joints in the control unit giving false codes. xemodex.com offers a good product if you end up replacing the abs control unit.
The only reason to replace struts is if they don't stop the motion of the springs evenly anymore. Once you get the strut cushion off - it's just a few more minutes to more the spring over to a new strut - but struts are about $200 each - and I don't replace parts unless they are worn out. Especially on a 18 year old car.
Fcp recommends replacing them all because they make more money. I always replaced them one at a time (using a bosch, oem or Volvo coil) Out of a few thousand cars - 2 needed all the coils. We would replace one and soon another would need, then a Third - would replace the remaining 2 after that. Sure the customer was frustrated - but it was less than 1/10% of all the cars I put coils on. And all the other customers were happy with their 1 replacement coil that fixed their problem.
"Put in the same brand but it did it again" - on the same cylinder?
No, first one was #2, this one is #5.
Has anyone checked compression if so?
No
What brand of spark plugs were used?
Don't remember, wasn't Bosh though. Had Bosch ordered from Volo part store giving the VIN, but got the longer ones plugs. When the mechanic pulled the old ones, they were the shorter ones. Off to AutoZone which doesn't have Bosch on stock....
I only use the factory Volvo plugs, have seen problems with some aftermarket plugs.
First thing for the abs would be a scan with a compatible scan tool. A common fault is cracked solder joints in the control unit giving false codes. xemodex.com offers a good product if you end up replacing the abs control unit.
The only reason to replace struts is if they don't stop the motion of the springs evenly anymore. Once you get the strut cushion off - it's just a few more minutes to more the spring over to a new strut - but struts are about $200 each - and I don't replace parts unless they are worn out.
I now understand that it is wiser for ignition and other engine parts like NAF sensor to use Bosch or Volvo. However, struts..? I see aftermarket for $180-200/pair....
Especially on a 18 year old car.
Exactly.
There's an example of how "replace struts" is not just the "strut" (+ strut cushion) and labor - note the old bump stop and where's the strut boot? Those are not sold with the "strut" and must be purchased also - increasing the cost of doing it right the first time. If the struts still control the motion of the springs evenly - just replace the broken spring seat - on only the side that is broken. Note where the strut is in relation to the steering knuckle and put those 2 bolts back in the same place - keeping the camber where it was - so as to not change or need an alignment.
Thanks for everybody's input.
I ended up ordering whole assemblies from Detroit Axle for $220/pair. Had my car guy replace them in a bit over an 1.5 hours for both sides.
It's quite a different ride now!
02-25-2023, 12:15 PM
Repair or replace strut(s)?
