Rough running and limp home
First of all I would like to introduce myself as a new member. I find the forum very interesting and am amzed at the helpfullness of the people here. I have a couple of Volvo cars and one in particular is giving me the fits. It had a broken flexplate at the center around the reinforcement and on dealer qouted me 13,000 for a new engine saying that the noise from the flexplate was actually the .012" clarance at the thrust bearings and the engine will have to be replaced. LOL. I took it upon myself to replace the flexplate and everything went very well until I started the engine. It misses badly and will not accellerate past 2000 RPM. There are some CEL codes too. Did I inadvertently cause some kind of condition? Everything only hooks up a certain way, so there's no real way to mess up. Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You know, I did think about that when I went to the dealer to get one of the many plastic interior pieces that break and I asked them to double check based on the serial number and two separate parts sales guys said it was correct based on the part number they gave me. But, I wondered about that and no I didn't check to make sure they are the same. Is that a common problem? I know the parts people are just clerks half of the time, but I would like to think that they care just a little to know their product. I digress... that may be my whole problem because that's the only new part I changed. I hope that's not it...
Not really a common problem.
But what you explain about how it is running brings me back.
On the older 4 cylinder red engines the flywheels can go on anyway and that is one of the signs of what happens when it is off.
The crank sensor reads the ring on the edge and it is used to seeing it a certain way and if it is different it will mess up how it runs.
What were the codes it was throwing?
But what you explain about how it is running brings me back.
On the older 4 cylinder red engines the flywheels can go on anyway and that is one of the signs of what happens when it is off.
The crank sensor reads the ring on the edge and it is used to seeing it a certain way and if it is different it will mess up how it runs.
What were the codes it was throwing?
One of the DTC's is a lean condition, I would have blamed a disconnected vacuum hose or vacuum leak, but all hoses are connected and the manifold has not been removed. I appreciate any help you can give. I'm getting ready to pull the engine back out and make sure of the flexplate.
BTW...the flexplate on this engine has a dowell pin that is between two of the crank bolt holes, so one would assume it can only go on one way??????[:-]
BTW...the flexplate on this engine has a dowell pin that is between two of the crank bolt holes, so one would assume it can only go on one way??????[:-]
P0507 is a PCM relay control voltage problem
One of the other codes is a lean condition on bank 1 (I'm assuming all 5 cylinders on this engine)
The only thing that bothers me is there are no codes for a missfire or anything like that and the exhaust is clean and so are the spark plugs.
I don't want to pull the motor just to find the flexplate is OK.
There is a 14ga. wire at the starter battery connection that I was not sure about. I'm going to the dealership today to see if the have an S60 there to doublecheck on that. I hope the ECM didn't get damaged some sort of way!
One of the other codes is a lean condition on bank 1 (I'm assuming all 5 cylinders on this engine)
The only thing that bothers me is there are no codes for a missfire or anything like that and the exhaust is clean and so are the spark plugs.
I don't want to pull the motor just to find the flexplate is OK.
There is a 14ga. wire at the starter battery connection that I was not sure about. I'm going to the dealership today to see if the have an S60 there to doublecheck on that. I hope the ECM didn't get damaged some sort of way!
In looking at some of the info avilable at eautorepair.com (subscription required - under $12 per week) I now realize that I may have screwed up the ECM by hooking the ground wire to the power terminal on the starter. I will try to ground the wire and see what happens. The manual states that during battery replacement the ignition should be turned to the no. 2 position before hooking up the negative terminal back on to the battery. Time to try a few more things....
ECU is dead. Found a used unit, going to pick it up tomorrow. The 14ga. wire goes to ground after all. [sm=icon_flaming.gif][sm=icon_flaming.gif][sm=icon_flaming.gif]
I think I sould have just paid the $13,000 because after all the dealer knows best...LOL!
I think I sould have just paid the $13,000 because after all the dealer knows best...LOL!
BTW Tried a (brave) friend's ECU this afternoon and it's alive, it pays to take pictures.
Also, the procedure of turning the ignition on to the second step (ignition on) before hooking up the battery does make a difference for some reason.
Also, the procedure of turning the ignition on to the second step (ignition on) before hooking up the battery does make a difference for some reason.
I hope it turns out good. The ECU's are not supposed to work in another car. It usually needs software to make it work and it is usually only a one time thing once it is programmed to the car it is locked.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cswadner
Volvo S80
5
Jun 30, 2009 08:19 PM




