Thanks for the info and advice. I just ordered a Haynes Manual. Glad to know it’s useful. I’ve seen a few of them on older vehicles where they seemed to be missing a few pages. I’m sure I can do it myself. Just like to be thorough before I crawl under a vehicle, and it’s all about making the time. I’ve got a good creeper and a nice set of ramps with extensions for low profile tires, so might as well put them to use. I’m not sure what you mean by “using the IPD Kit.” Most of my vehicles have been manual trans where you just drain gear oil, flush a little more of the garbage out, and refill, so not familiar with that term. Just curious as to how many miles you had on your S60 when you did the initial flush, and how many miles you have on it now? I had a copy of the Carfax on this car so I called the original Volvo dealer and shop where it was serviced for the first 50K to verify no flushes during that time. The service advisor verified for me that it hadn’t been done but said it was a maintenance free transmission and they only flush as a last resort. The impression I got was they’ll do a flush, right before they tell you that the transmission needs replacing. I’m leaning towards ordering the Mobil 3309, but I may at least call some Toyota and Lexus Dealerships to price out the Toyota T-IV fluid. Once I get this done, I’ll be moving on to spark plugs, and it sounds like you may have tackled that also so maybe you can throw some advise my way on that, but I will post that in the proper area, so not to get off topic here.

 

Not trying to be a punk. Guess I misunderstood your intentions. Not opposed to manuals, just prefer not to spend a fortune on a Chilton Manual unless I have to. As I posted earlier, I'm going to give the Haynes Manual a try.

 

Same-Dofference, really. Personally, I like Chiltons, but AFAIK, they both have the same info.

 

My protocol is as follows. Very simple really.

2002 V70 T5, 149k miles and still going strong. Original transmission.

I change the engine oil every 5k miles. At the same time I drain and fill the trans. I get about 3.5 quarts out. The shifts occasionally get a little sloppy when the oil gets hot (hot day in traffic) but otherwise the trans seems fine. I'm thinking about a trans cooler.

But I sort of gave the car to my 16YO kid as a first car so I probably shouldn't throw any money at it. I remember my first (and second... and third...) cars not lasting too long under my heavy foot, and it seems heavy feet are genetic in my family

 

I wanted to report I changed my transmission fluid without any issues. The mileage at the time of the fluid change was about 72,500. I ended up using Mobil 3309 and draining about 3 2/3 quarts by removing the plug. Considering some dealerships, etc. still refer to this transmission as a maintenance free transmission, I thought it was interesting that the factory plug was magnetic. I also thought it was interesting that a 15/16 socket fits better than a 24 mm socket. I’ve only driven the car a short distance since the fluid change, but I can already tell the transmission shifts a little better going from park to reverse, and back into park. It’s a very slight difference that most wouldn’t notice. The fluid I took out didn’t look horrible for how old it was, and when looking at a thin layer it was more of an orangy tint with a little pink, but when you’re looking at 3+ quarts in a bucket, it had more of a brown hue to it, so glad a made the change. I also cleaned some very fine metal mush off the magnetic plug, but only a small amount was present so it didn’t look alarming. Thanks for the advice from those that responded.

 

Awesome. Cool to hear that everything went well.

The spark plug swap you mentioned in a previous post is easy. You shouldn't have any problems with that. Also do the fuel filter. On my '07 S60 it's on the passenger frame rail about halfway down the car. Super easy to do given the quick disconnects . Don't forget your air filter and cabin air filter.

Now to really scare you (as if the transmission thing didn't scare you enough). A small percentage of Volvo owners have issues with their timing belt BEFORE the recommended 105,000 mile change interval (or is it 120). Anyhow, you probably want to start thinking about it. I recently took the plunge and did everything myself. I had never done a timing belt before - but have done timing chains on old small block chevys (yea, I'm a gearhead). I originally called Volvo and they wanted about $2,000 to do timing belt, new pulleys, tensioner, new water pump, serpentine belt, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, cabin air filter, tranny flush, oil change, etc. (basically the works because the car was due for everything). I couldn't justify that price and knew that I was capable of doing everything (most of which I had already done by myself on this car previously). I was looking forward to saving my very little free time by dropping it off somewhere but $2000 was just too much. I took a day off of work and worked on the car Friday and Saturday. Total cost was around $400 in parts (for ALL of that stuff at one time).

t

 

That's great that you can do all that stuff yourself! I'll do filters and oil changes but that's about it. 20-30 years ago I would do belts, alternators and water pumps but that's about the extent of it. Makes my back hurt!

 

Between the Haynes manual and a video on youtube, I don’t think I’ll have any problems with the spark plugs. It took me awhile to decide, but I’m going with Bosch Platinum Plus plugs. I’ve been told by several sources that Bosch makes the plugs for Volvo, and stamps a Volvo logo on it. I’m ordering the filters as well. Thanks for the tip on the fuel filter (didn't realize it had quick disconnects), and timing belt. The dealership said they change the fuel filter at 105K, which I thought was a little high, but I haven’t checked into the timing belt yet, so I wasn’t sure on the service interval. I've helped change a timing belt before back about 15 years ago on a car that required hooking up a timing light. At least we don't have to use a timing light anymore. I understand what you mean about cost. I don't even like the idea of buying parts from the dealership parts counter.

 

Most automatic transmissions work well on the road in Dexron III / Mercon ATF, with the exception of 92 national and early Ford, who need to type F. However, the Dexron fluid is essentially a generic, and some experts say that shifting problems have been cured simply by replacing the exact OE-specified things.

 

Read a little before you post. A post like this will confuse people that are new to Volvo and Volvo maintenance. I wouldn't say most can use Dextron III / Mercon ATF. I would say SOME. If I remember right, Dextron is a fluid spec created by GM. Not sure who came up with the Mercon Spec. There are a ton of different spec trans fluid. For the Aisen Warner Transmission in the S60, you need a fluid that meets the JWS3309 spec. The most obvious ones to buy are either packaged in a Volvo bottle, a Toyota bottle or in a Mobil bottle. The most cost effective in my area was to buy the Mobil 3309.

 

I dropped my 2001 S60 off at the dealer this morning for several things. It's a 2.4T with the automatic trans, and the dealer told me that it used a synthetic oil, was sealed for life, and not to change it. I don't know about the geartronic trans, however.

 

you can find private volvo mechanic at this email in chicago area he is volvo mechanic send email to volvochicago@live.com im sure he can help you .he has all volvo diagnostic scanner for volvo all you need for volvo he got it .also comes to your home if you like .HE ANSWER'S FREE VOLVO QUESTION IF YOU HAVE THRU EMAIL .

 

Ok I've read this thread and other site threads for hours to make the right choice and I'm still not sure which is the the best. This is for a 2006 2.5T 5 speed.

1. I can't find Mobill 3309 anywhere around Seattle and online, the cheapest place (AVlube) wants to charge me $32 for shipping. Half the cost of the damn case! I'm pissed at IPD right now. (Still waiting on an order from 3 weeks ago with no help from their snooty reps) so for me Mobil 3309 is out of the running. So.. I know I can get either of these locally. Which should I get?

T-IV
Amsoil

To me the T-IV is the cheapest local option and is JWS3309 compatible so I'm leaning towards it. Any help is much appreciated.

BTW I called Larry's Volvo in Seattle (best rated shop in the area, dealers are awful around here) and he said he only flushes trans, no drain and fill, always have, never had an issue and he buys his atf from the volvo dealer at $70 a gallon. I personally am afraid of flushes after all the nightmare stories. He charges $335 to flush. I still think thats too expensive.

 

Just called the local Toyota dealer. T-IV, $5.36 per quart.

 

I now use the Toyota fluid because I can get it cheaper. It's a safe bet. No worries.

I buy it on ebay for ~$55 for a case of 12 ... less than $5 per quart.

t

 

If you need cheap trans fluid original Volvo fluid email this guy. volvoparts@live.com

 

If you need cheap trans fluid original Volvo fluid email this guy. volvoparts@live.com

 

After reading this thread I am def going with the T-IV.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=9&t=26863

I just gotta find the gallon plastic milk jugs because we only buy the half gallon paper containers!

Thanks for the replies guys!

 

UPDATE: I bought the T-IV fluid, an aluminum crush ring. I got the gallon jug and the link above worked out great but instead of only cycling through the gears in between flushes and doing only 2, I drove the car for 10 miles in between flushes and got alot more dirty fluid out. By the 3rd drain it was bright red. Roughly 4 quarts came out between drains. Def drive the car between flushes and do 3. it shifts like nectar now. it shifted fine before but I notice a difference for sure.

I used the exact tools the guy did right down to the brand of funnel I found here locally. I even bought the same rhino ramps and they work great! Don't believe the bad reviews. The only thing is that you cant put on the brakes while you're driving up them or they may spit out the front of the car. Worked great for me though.

The job took 4 hours but I also was chill and not in a rush. All in all VERY easy. No filter to mess with and not too dirty. Good for another 30000!

 

If you need cheap trans fluid original Volvo fluid email this guy