Transmission Fluid
I have just checked the ATF level following all the instructions here and it is overfilled.
I can say there is aprox 1 quarz extra oil and its completely brown not RED at all.
Should it be reason for having knock (voice) when changing gear from P to R and when downshifting while driving (only on HOT)?
I can say there is aprox 1 quarz extra oil and its completely brown not RED at all.
Should it be reason for having knock (voice) when changing gear from P to R and when downshifting while driving (only on HOT)?
Wish me luck (or at least my S60) as I take the plunge to get my transmission fluid changed at my local repair shop.
They gave me an estimate of $125 for labor, which I felt was reasonable.
They had no intention of using JWS 3309 until I prompted them to look into it. They use BG fluid I believe.
I am curious how much they will charge me for the fluid.
Thanks for all the good discussion on the matter.
They gave me an estimate of $125 for labor, which I felt was reasonable.
They had no intention of using JWS 3309 until I prompted them to look into it. They use BG fluid I believe.
I am curious how much they will charge me for the fluid.
Thanks for all the good discussion on the matter.
Instead of asking questions about this or that, with the condition of your fluid, I would immediately change it out. Then report back as to how it is shifting. The trans mount bushing is probably bad causing a clunk (if that's what you were trying to explain) when moving from P to R. Fluid doesn't have much to do with that.
I have changed ATF and put SHELL Red Synthetic Dexron III (no JWS 3309 available in the city)
But there is still Knock while changing from P to D and backwards. There is also knock when braking car and when it downshifts.
This knock gets greater if I stop the car and put several times in R and then in D and back.as you advised I will check trans mount bushing.
Last edited by jafargio; Feb 20, 2009 at 01:17 AM.
I have changed ATF and put SHELL Red Synthetic Dexron III (no JWS 3309 available in the city)
But there is still Knock while changing from P to D and backwards. There is also knock when braking car and when it downshifts.
This knock gets greater if I stop the car and put several times in R and then in D and back.
as you advised I will check trans mount bushing.
But there is still Knock while changing from P to D and backwards. There is also knock when braking car and when it downshifts.
This knock gets greater if I stop the car and put several times in R and then in D and back.as you advised I will check trans mount bushing.
You can order the stuff from IPD online find a Toyota dealership who sells it, they all do.
Your trans will self destruct shortly with that fluid in there.
Replace the front top mount and the trans mount underneath as well, like I said before.
Listen I don't know how else to put this, but if your car requires JWS 3309 and you put common Dexron in intentionally, then you deserve a faulty transmission.
You can order the stuff from IPD online find a Toyota dealership who sells it, they all do.
Your trans will self destruct shortly with that fluid in there.
Replace the front top mount and the trans mount underneath as well, like I said before.
You can order the stuff from IPD online find a Toyota dealership who sells it, they all do.
Your trans will self destruct shortly with that fluid in there.
Replace the front top mount and the trans mount underneath as well, like I said before.
I also showed my car for mounts but they told me that voice comes from Trans and mounts are ok.
I have also visited Volvo Service and I paid aprox 40$ for nothing. They reset my transmission computer saying that could be the reason for knock and I have to reset it every time i Change ATF.
the others they have to put off transmission and then diagnose it.
I went to the service in Shell and they recommended Shell Dexron III as an alternative ATF for this trans. so I put this one.
I also showed my car for mounts but they told me that voice comes from Trans and mounts are ok.
I have also visited Volvo Service and I paid aprox 40$ for nothing. They reset my transmission computer saying that could be the reason for knock and I have to reset it every time i Change ATF.
the others they have to put off transmission and then diagnose it.
I also showed my car for mounts but they told me that voice comes from Trans and mounts are ok.
I have also visited Volvo Service and I paid aprox 40$ for nothing. They reset my transmission computer saying that could be the reason for knock and I have to reset it every time i Change ATF.
the others they have to put off transmission and then diagnose it.
Good luck
I read through the entire discussion and I only have one question.. If I have the 4 speed GM tranny, it has been said that Dex 3 is the reccomended for this, but I don't mind paying more for better quality ATF assuming there will be benefits attached.
So now I have to ask, if I was to put full synthetic (amsoil, or royal purple, or redline etc) into this transmission, what would be the risks/benefits?
Also, just a question, but the actual synthetic Mobil ATF (not 3309 obviously) is sold in many places around here.. can that also be an option?
Thanks
So now I have to ask, if I was to put full synthetic (amsoil, or royal purple, or redline etc) into this transmission, what would be the risks/benefits?
Also, just a question, but the actual synthetic Mobil ATF (not 3309 obviously) is sold in many places around here.. can that also be an option?
Thanks
I've read on another Volvo forum to always use the Volvo brand transmission fuid for the newer Volvos........helps to prevent transmission problems that could be caused by using non-Volvo fluid. My 1989 Volvo 740GL wagon used just the regular type transmission fluid and had 135,000 miles on the original auto trans and four banger engine.........they don't make them that tough any more!
Just use whatever is recommended. If it is Dex3, use Dex3. If it's JWS 3309, use that. It's common sense.
Volvo is not the only people that "supply" 3309 and GM is not the only people that supply Dex3. YOu can use any Dex3 in any Dex3 Car. Why not buy that Amsoil or whatever you like? It is approved to use if it says it meets whatever spec you are trying to meet.
Brand doesn't matter, you get what you pay for though. Unless you buy Volvo JWS 3309, which is a waste of money.
And that's common sense.
Volvo is not the only people that "supply" 3309 and GM is not the only people that supply Dex3. YOu can use any Dex3 in any Dex3 Car. Why not buy that Amsoil or whatever you like? It is approved to use if it says it meets whatever spec you are trying to meet.
Brand doesn't matter, you get what you pay for though. Unless you buy Volvo JWS 3309, which is a waste of money.
And that's common sense.
On Feb 28, 2009 I purchased a 2004 Volvo S60 2.4L (Non-Turbo) with MANUAL transmission.........52,700 miles. When does Volvo recommend changing the manual transmission fluid and is there a procedure posted someplace? FredMc provided the fluid specs in one of his postings (quoted below) but is there an equivalent that is greatly cheaper than Volvo's OEM fluid (like the Mobil 3309 is for the Volvo PN 1161640 - 1 Liter)?
This is the Manual trans fluid data sheet
NEW DEALER STOCK, VOLVO TRANSMISSION FLUID - SYNTHETIC. A MULTIGRADE SYNTHETIC OIL INTENDED FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS IN PASSENGER CARS. THE OIL HAS VERY GOOD LOW TEMPERATURE PROPERTIES AND ENABLES SMOOTH GEAR CHANGES DOWN TO -40F.THE LOW FRICTION CONTRIBUTES TO LOW FUEL CONSUMPTION. RECOMMENDED FOR ENGINES SUCH AS M56, M58, M90 AND M5M52. THE FLUID HAS BEEN SPECIALLY DEVELOPED FOR THESE TRANSMISSIONS AND HAS NO EQUAL ON THE MARKET. IT OFFERS VERY GOOD GEAR CHANGING AND LOW TEMPERATURE PERFORMANCE.
IMPORTANT: THE OIL IS NOT TESTED OR SPECIFIED UNDER STANDARDS OTHER THAN THOSE INDICATED IN THIS LISTING. IN ORDER TO SPECIFY THE CORRECT OIL FOR THE CAR, ALWAYS CHECK THE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR THE CAR
TECHNICAL DATA:
QUALITY: API GL-4, VOLVO STD. 97308, 10; SAE 5W - 30, (SAE 75W)
DENSITY: 890 Kg/ cu M
BASE: SYNTHETIC
LOWEST FLOW POINT: -54.4F
FLASH POINT: 453F
VISCOSITY @ 104F: NE
VISCOSITY @ 212F: 10.5 sq mm/sec
VOLVO PART NUMBER 1161645.
This is the Manual trans fluid data sheet
NEW DEALER STOCK, VOLVO TRANSMISSION FLUID - SYNTHETIC. A MULTIGRADE SYNTHETIC OIL INTENDED FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS IN PASSENGER CARS. THE OIL HAS VERY GOOD LOW TEMPERATURE PROPERTIES AND ENABLES SMOOTH GEAR CHANGES DOWN TO -40F.THE LOW FRICTION CONTRIBUTES TO LOW FUEL CONSUMPTION. RECOMMENDED FOR ENGINES SUCH AS M56, M58, M90 AND M5M52. THE FLUID HAS BEEN SPECIALLY DEVELOPED FOR THESE TRANSMISSIONS AND HAS NO EQUAL ON THE MARKET. IT OFFERS VERY GOOD GEAR CHANGING AND LOW TEMPERATURE PERFORMANCE.
IMPORTANT: THE OIL IS NOT TESTED OR SPECIFIED UNDER STANDARDS OTHER THAN THOSE INDICATED IN THIS LISTING. IN ORDER TO SPECIFY THE CORRECT OIL FOR THE CAR, ALWAYS CHECK THE OWNER'S MANUAL FOR THE CAR
TECHNICAL DATA:
QUALITY: API GL-4, VOLVO STD. 97308, 10; SAE 5W - 30, (SAE 75W)
DENSITY: 890 Kg/ cu M
BASE: SYNTHETIC
LOWEST FLOW POINT: -54.4F
FLASH POINT: 453F
VISCOSITY @ 104F: NE
VISCOSITY @ 212F: 10.5 sq mm/sec
VOLVO PART NUMBER 1161645.
I read through the whole discussion and have one question:
How do I tell if I have the Aisin Warner transmission? I have a '01 S60 T5 with the geartronic.
I have a Toyota dealership right down the road so if the T-IV is the way to go for mine, I'll go grab a case of 12 qts and drain/fill this weekend.
Also, I had a Saab prior to this and for Saabs a flush was not recommended as there was no trans. filter to catch any loosened grime. Are flushes alright for my car?
How do I tell if I have the Aisin Warner transmission? I have a '01 S60 T5 with the geartronic.
I have a Toyota dealership right down the road so if the T-IV is the way to go for mine, I'll go grab a case of 12 qts and drain/fill this weekend.
Also, I had a Saab prior to this and for Saabs a flush was not recommended as there was no trans. filter to catch any loosened grime. Are flushes alright for my car?
I read through the whole discussion and have one question:
How do I tell if I have the Aisin Warner transmission? I have a '01 S60 T5 with the geartronic.
I have a Toyota dealership right down the road so if the T-IV is the way to go for mine, I'll go grab a case of 12 qts and drain/fill this weekend.
Also, I had a Saab prior to this and for Saabs a flush was not recommended as there was no trans. filter to catch any loosened grime. Are flushes alright for my car?
How do I tell if I have the Aisin Warner transmission? I have a '01 S60 T5 with the geartronic.
I have a Toyota dealership right down the road so if the T-IV is the way to go for mine, I'll go grab a case of 12 qts and drain/fill this weekend.
Also, I had a Saab prior to this and for Saabs a flush was not recommended as there was no trans. filter to catch any loosened grime. Are flushes alright for my car?
NO: 40-04
DATE: 10-13-2005
MODEL/YEAR: All Models
SUBJECT: Transmission and AWD Lubricants
REFERENCE: Owners Manual and VIDA
Application Note Part Number
• 5 and 6 Speed Automatic Transmissions
-AW55
-TF80-SC
This fluid is also recommended to address two
complaints on the AW 50-42:
•Harsh Lock-Up engagement/disengagement
(SB 43-0029)
•Squeaking noise during low speed turns
(TNN 43-11)
JWS 3309
The only oil approved for the 5 and 6
speed automatic transmissions is JWS
3309. None of the other fluids available
on the market have been evaluated by
Volvo to meet the requirements of
these specific transmissions regarding:
• Shift quality
• Slipping lock-up functionality
• Transmission durability
1161540 (1 liter)
1161640 (4 liter)
By the way, here's a good discount source to buy the Mobil JWS 3309 trans fluid: http://www.avlube.com/mobilatf3309.html
This thread has really been helpful. I own a 2004 S60 2.5T AWD automatic with almost 160k. Bought it just about a month ago and not sure if the previous owner ever flushed his ATF at all. Anyway, did check the dipstick, level is still pretty good but color is little bit on the dark side.
With the info on this thread I can definitely do a fill & drain myself. Got the info on the available kits from IPD and the available ATFs to use from this thread also.
Having said that, I have a couple of questions :
a) Do i really need to do an ATF change. I still feel the car shifts good and Volvo did recommend to change "only when needed". I do feel a very subtle vibration (floor and seat) when accelarating to 55-60 MPH - wonder if this is transmission related.
b) Should I do a full fluid change (fill and drain until fluid is 82% new) or do it gradually - perhaps 2 quarts per oil change. Asking this because of a post that stated that a full fluid change might have a negative effect specially on high milage vehicles that have not undergone periodic flushing.
c) How can you tell if after changing ATF that a software upgrade is also necessary ? Does this depend on the behavior of the car - what behavior should I be looking out for ?
With the info on this thread I can definitely do a fill & drain myself. Got the info on the available kits from IPD and the available ATFs to use from this thread also.
Having said that, I have a couple of questions :
a) Do i really need to do an ATF change. I still feel the car shifts good and Volvo did recommend to change "only when needed". I do feel a very subtle vibration (floor and seat) when accelarating to 55-60 MPH - wonder if this is transmission related.
b) Should I do a full fluid change (fill and drain until fluid is 82% new) or do it gradually - perhaps 2 quarts per oil change. Asking this because of a post that stated that a full fluid change might have a negative effect specially on high milage vehicles that have not undergone periodic flushing.
c) How can you tell if after changing ATF that a software upgrade is also necessary ? Does this depend on the behavior of the car - what behavior should I be looking out for ?
This thread has really been helpful. I own a 2004 S60 2.5T AWD automatic with almost 160k. Bought it just about a month ago and not sure if the previous owner ever flushed his ATF at all. Anyway, did check the dipstick, level is still pretty good but color is little bit on the dark side.
With the info on this thread I can definitely do a fill & drain myself. Got the info on the available kits from IPD and the available ATFs to use from this thread also.
Having said that, I have a couple of questions :
a) Do i really need to do an ATF change. I still feel the car shifts good and Volvo did recommend to change "only when needed". I do feel a very subtle vibration (floor and seat) when accelarating to 55-60 MPH - wonder if this is transmission related.
b) Should I do a full fluid change (fill and drain until fluid is 82% new) or do it gradually - perhaps 2 quarts per oil change. Asking this because of a post that stated that a full fluid change might have a negative effect specially on high milage vehicles that have not undergone periodic flushing.
c) How can you tell if after changing ATF that a software upgrade is also necessary ? Does this depend on the behavior of the car - what behavior should I be looking out for ?
With the info on this thread I can definitely do a fill & drain myself. Got the info on the available kits from IPD and the available ATFs to use from this thread also.
Having said that, I have a couple of questions :
a) Do i really need to do an ATF change. I still feel the car shifts good and Volvo did recommend to change "only when needed". I do feel a very subtle vibration (floor and seat) when accelarating to 55-60 MPH - wonder if this is transmission related.
b) Should I do a full fluid change (fill and drain until fluid is 82% new) or do it gradually - perhaps 2 quarts per oil change. Asking this because of a post that stated that a full fluid change might have a negative effect specially on high milage vehicles that have not undergone periodic flushing.
c) How can you tell if after changing ATF that a software upgrade is also necessary ? Does this depend on the behavior of the car - what behavior should I be looking out for ?
If you all don't mind me asking, I am willing to spend the extra to get the best ATF I can find (much cheaper than replacing a tranny).. I know that I am on the wrong place on the forum because I have a 2002 S80, but this thread seems to be the only real place for conclusive discussion on the topic.
Anyway, as I have a S80, it means I have the GM tranny which is a big worry for me (110,000 miles).. I wanted to do a transmission drain and refill but was wondering what was the best ATF I could get.
I was looking into Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple.. I know that I can use the Mobil Dex VI but this is not synthetic.. I also took a look at regular brands such as Valvoline and Castrol ..
Anyway, I plan on doing the drain and replace myself using one of the kits from IPD, but how many qt's of ATF should I be looking to purchase?
thanks
Anyway, as I have a S80, it means I have the GM tranny which is a big worry for me (110,000 miles).. I wanted to do a transmission drain and refill but was wondering what was the best ATF I could get.
I was looking into Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple.. I know that I can use the Mobil Dex VI but this is not synthetic.. I also took a look at regular brands such as Valvoline and Castrol ..
Anyway, I plan on doing the drain and replace myself using one of the kits from IPD, but how many qt's of ATF should I be looking to purchase?
thanks
Last edited by nicolaselias; Apr 5, 2009 at 08:35 AM. Reason: typo
If you all don't mind me asking, I am willing to spend the extra to get the best ATF I can find (much cheaper than replacing a tranny).. I know that I am on the wrong place on the forum because I have a 2002 S80, but this thread seems to be the only real place for conclusive discussion on the topic.
Anyway, as I have a S80, it means I have the GM tranny which is a big worry for me (110,000 miles).. I wanted to do a transmission drain and refill but was wondering what was the best ATF I could get.
I was looking into Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple.. I know that I can use the Mobil Dex VI but this is not synthetic.. I also took a look at regular brands such as Valvoline and Castrol ..
Anyway, I plan on doing the drain and replace myself using one of the kits from IPD, but how many qt's of ATF should I be looking to purchase?
thanks
Anyway, as I have a S80, it means I have the GM tranny which is a big worry for me (110,000 miles).. I wanted to do a transmission drain and refill but was wondering what was the best ATF I could get.
I was looking into Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple.. I know that I can use the Mobil Dex VI but this is not synthetic.. I also took a look at regular brands such as Valvoline and Castrol ..
Anyway, I plan on doing the drain and replace myself using one of the kits from IPD, but how many qt's of ATF should I be looking to purchase?
thanks
yea, the manual will tell me how much I need, but I will still have to come back to you to ask about what you think is the best.
Of the "fancy" synthetic brands, it looks like my best deal will be on Amsoil. Do any of you know much about their ATF to encourage or discourage me from getting it? How will it compare to say royal purple and redline (and mobil 1 synthetic for that matter)
Thanks
Of the "fancy" synthetic brands, it looks like my best deal will be on Amsoil. Do any of you know much about their ATF to encourage or discourage me from getting it? How will it compare to say royal purple and redline (and mobil 1 synthetic for that matter)
Thanks


