Okay I allowed my son to jump his 2005 Ford ranger pick up truck as he had a dead battery. He did this on two separate occasions. He does know how to jump start a vehicle, however prior to this my S60 wasn’t being driven much due to my illness. However it ran really good with no issues,

I then went to start my car and my battery was dead so I replaced it with a brand new one.
Now my car ( 2012 S60) will not start even with the new battery installed.

 

" will not start" as in starter does not spin engine over, or starter spins engine over but won't catch?

Starter does not spin engine over - Bad connection, try your other key, lock and unlock the car (are you sure the battery is charged?) Horn takes the most current other than the starter - does the horn work?

Spins over does not catch - someone stole your gas -

 

S60 won’t start.
responding to your questions, I’m new here sorry
From robertawhite1369 Today 08:28 AM
Not sure that I’m responding like I should but I got excited when I saw you had responded so quickly-thank you.

okay, My cars not turning over at all, as if there’s no battery installed. Except all the dash lights are coming on as they should.

Also I have had all the fuses checked in both boxes and they all seem to be good.

Relays were also checked and they are good.

I will also mention that I did a few things I found on internet regarding the security system checks like entering the key into d. door and into ignition several times.
Nothing has worked so far.
Battery terminals are like new, clean.

Thank you so much for trying to help me with this problem. All is appreciated.

PS: The keypad works fine as well as the horn.

 

Here's a wiring diagram and location pages. Big 150A fuse (PF2) on the positive cable - have only seen a physically broken one, never a blown one. It's part of the cable (You mentioned your battery being used to jump start something, could have been damaged then?) That 150 amp fuse only goes to the starter and the alternator - meaning everything else in the car will work. The large red cable on both the starter and alternator are not easy to get to - but that's where you need to find 12v if you think PF2 is blown.
Check for 12v at relay terminal 30 will test fuse 34.

Starter relay r12 - with it removed use a jumper wire to send power to the starter to test the starter. If there is an identical part number relay in the fusebox, swap it the the starter relay to test the relay.

 

Completed the recommendations that you (hoonk) have suggested and unfortunately (or fortunately) everything checked out good.
We just cannot seem to figure this out. Any other suggestions?????

 

If you make up a jumper wire with 2 male terminals,



unplug the starter relay and jump between terminals 30 (where you will find 12v with your $5 test light if fuse 34 is good) and terminal 87 (that sends power directly to the starter solenoid), circled in blue. The solenoid will click and the starter will engage. If you just hear the solenoid click - there is may be no power on the fat red wire getting to the starter. (maybe due to a bad 150A fuse built into one of the positive cables at the battery) If you still hear nothing and you are certain you have 12v on the fat red wire on the starter and 12v on the small solenoid wire when you have jumped the relay - and you are certain the battery is fully charged and passes a load test - You MIGHT have a bad starter. I would still make 100% sure the starter was bad BEFORE ordering a replacement. I would attach jumper cables to a known good battery and a remote starter switch directly to the starter and try to energize the starter with those. Then if the starter still did not work I would bench test the starter after I got it out of the car, using jumper cables and a remote starter switch. Only then would I pronounce the starter bad, for it's pretty rare for them to fail.

 

Okay. We just did the cylinoid test like you recommended and the starter turned over great.

 

Great - so you have a good starter/battery and good wiring between them, and maybe swapped the relay with another of the same part number so that's not bad either.

Have you tried your other key? You are sure the car is in park and you have tried starting the car in neutral also? And you don't get any messages in the message center about immobilizer? No "start prevented try again" or anything just as frustrating?

The next thing (actually would have been one of the first things) I would do is connect an appropriate scan tool. Scan the car, record what's there and erase all codes. See if it starts. With that tool you can see what signals are going where. Attached is a screen shot from VIDA, Volvos scanning software. Click on any of those items and you can verify key in, start switch activated, all sorts of parameters. If the starter spins the engine over when relay is jumped maybe if the ignition is on when you bypass the starter relay the engine will run, avoiding a tow bill to the hopefully Volvo specialty shop that has appropriate diagnostic capability. The next step is to figure out why the the ECM or the CEM is not sending a start signal - and that can't be done with a test light and a jumper wire

 

My friend said to ask you if we should or can change out the ECM? He said they found them for like $120.00 online, does that sound right to you?
I just wanna thank you so much for helping me out. I really appreciate your time.

Also which Vida tool would you recommend? There’s several different ones online? Sizes? Prices? I will order it this morning as I need my car on the road.

Also wanted to tell you that we turned the key on while doing starter test just to see if it would start and no luck.

 

The ECM is "coded" to the VIN of the car. A used ECM WILL NOT WORK In your car. And you can't "reprogram" a used control unit to work in your car either. The immobilizer is in the CEM so hopefully you can see your friend guessing will only cost you wasted money, time and greater frustration.

Which Vida tool to recommend? The one that is owned by a shop using it. You have done the simple stuff and it sounds like for some reason your immobilizer is preventing the car from starting. You CAN'T bypass an immobilizer. - now it's time to pay someone to fix your car. Take all your keys with you.

VIDA - years ago someone stole and hacked (to work without a subscription) the VIDA program that was available on DVD. Latest was the 4th quarter version in 2014. Called VIDA 2014d. That version will talk to (scan) cars thru the 2015 model year. You can easily find a download of that program free on the internet. To run that program requires a cpu with Windows 7 pro ONLY with exact speed, memory and Internet explorer specifications/settings. So - Vida is not something I would recommend for the average consumer. Most who use it have a dedicated computer for VIDA only. To interface with a car you need a DICE unit. It plugs into the car and the cpu VIDA is loaded on. A "clone" DICE that MIGHT work can be purchased for less than $200. My Factory Dice units cost over $800 each.

If your problem is with your keys not being recognized by the CEM and preventing to car from starting - the only people that can fix that is someone with a VIDA subscription, Either a Volvo dealer or large Volvo specialist who purchases a subscription as needed. You may be required to purchase a new key to fix this.

Vida is not an easy program to learn. Having used versions of Vadis and VIDA for 20 years I'm still figuring out how to make it work for me. "Ordering this morning" will not solve your problem any time in the near or possibly far future. Sorry.

 

Okay I guess I messed up bigtime on the last message and got the ECU and the CEM confused. I have confirmed that the ECU is not the problem.

The most likely problem at this point is the CEM. Several posts that I read indicated that had similar issues, that once the codes were erased then the vehicle cranked right up.
The only reason why I am even bothering with this is because I am a woman(widow) who doesn’t enjoy walking blindly into a mechanic shop and being taken advantage of. Which has happened multiple times.
I am trying to find the location of the CEM on my car.

Also I enjoy learning about cars, especially mine. This car only has 80k miles on it and I planned on keeping it awhile otherwise I wouldn’t even bother.
I guess I was hoping for an easier fix. I’m sorry if I bothered you to much with all my questions.

 

That is certainly possible and I mentioned that earlier - but you don't need VIDA to do that. There are many capable scan tools out there. The CEM is coded to the VIN also - a used one won't work unless you use a company such as xemodex.com to transfer your CEM program to a used unit. I have replaced many CEM's in Volvos due to water intrusion, and that water damage causes all sorts of malfunctions - but again is just a guess until a scan has been done on the car, a visual inspection of the CEM itself, and elimination of all other possibilities.

Having owned a shop for 40 years, and been in the business for almost 50 - Customers are not "taken advantage of" at least intentionally. What happens is customers end up paying for the inept "mechanics" who at times have no clue how to diagnose or fix your car. That's why sometimes it's best to use someone either with more training, or if they are going to learn on your car - at least have the ethics to not change for their education time.

.


These are common fault symptoms from another type of Volvo CEM courtesy of xemodex