This problem has been going on for about 4 weeks now. The car starts and runs fine but every now and then it idles rough then stalls when coming to a stop light, stop sign or idling in traffic. The car starts up after about 2-3 attempt and runs fine again. This happens about 4 times a week lately. My mech. is stumped on this. I have done and checked the following:
[ul][*]replaced the fuel pump & relay[*]Fuel filter[*]checked vacuum hoses[*]checked that idle air valve[/ul]Any help would be great on this.

Thx

 

maybe alternator is going bad?

 

If you can try to get a fuel pressure guage and connect it and leave it on while you drive.

Does it feel like it is running out of gas when it dies?

 

Yeah, it feels like it is running out of gas!!! Kind of a rough idle then it dies.

 

I would check the fuel pump relay first. Then the pump.

 

Tech,

Even if I just replaced both 2 weeks ago for this same problem? They also check and fixed all vacuum hose problems. The idle air valve works fine too.

 

I would still check them. New parts can be bad.
Try like I said with a fuel pressure guage. You might also want to hook up a light on a long set of wires. I have one made up just for this. I wire it into the plug in the back and run it up to the center console. SO if it acts up check the guage and light to see if you are loosing signal to the pump or just fuel pressure.

 

ThX

I will take your suggestions and let you know if that solves it.

Thx again

 

Hopefully you figure it out.

 

I have had this as a chronic issue for may years with my 1988 Volvo GL. Did you find a solution that worked? I'd be very grateful to know.

 

best to start a new thread and post to the model specific forum. stalling at idle can be a few different things but those common causes will vary by model/engine/year. Is your ignition in good tune - plugs/wires/rotor/cap? Have you inspected the intake components - idle air valve clean? can it close all the way? Inspect for vaccum leaks and intake air leaks - things like the o-rings on the injectors are probably hard as a rock if original and may need to be replaced or you can have a torn diaphram in a vacuum actuated switch that's now an air leak. If nothing is obvious you may need to have a smoke test done as it could be hidden way far under (like the vacuum line that goes back to the evap cannister). Is the throttle body and MAF clean ?

 

+1 to above but try replacing the FPV - other end of fuel rail from blue capped valve - get off a junk yard car and try it.😉