Volvo S70 Made from 1998 to 2000, this sporty model replaced the 850 sedan and instantly became a hit.

'99 s70: stalls at idle: dealer wants to replace the starter/flywheel

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  #1  
Old 04-23-2009 | 10:07 AM
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Default '99 s70: stalls at idle: dealer wants to replace the starter/flywheel

Hey all,

My '99 s70 base model 152k miles started stalling at idle after warmed up. Trips around town are fine, >45 minutes it become undrivable if there is any slow or stopped traffic. It has had the throttle body software recall done(oct 2007)

I cleaned the throttle body, idle air control valve, injectors, replaced the plugs etc. + basic tuneup
Finally took it to the dealer because it was giving me fits.
They replaced the crankshaft position sensor which did no good.
Took it back in and they want to replace the camshaft position sensor, flywheel and starter.
I can understand the camshaft position sensor, well at least more than the other two.

I think its a throttle body related issue but I'm hesitant to dive into it unless I know I have to.

Couple of questions:
What the heck is going on here?
Why do they want to replace my starter and flywheel?
(I'm getting a serious sham vibe)

Cheers,
BS
 
  #2  
Old 04-23-2009 | 07:59 PM
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Turbo or non?
 
  #3  
Old 04-24-2009 | 06:50 AM
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Sorry Tech,

Naturally Aspirated

Cheers,
BS
 
  #4  
Old 04-24-2009 | 07:52 PM
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Did they check the fuel pump relay?
Did they check the fuel pump?
Did they say what codes they pulled?
The cam and crank sensor mainly only work for starting the car. Yes they work afterwords but not as important as when starting.
 
  #5  
Old 04-27-2009 | 12:24 PM
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Tech,

As far as I know they did not check the fuel pump/relay.

I'm looking at the VIDA printout and its got
ECM-310A Engine Speed sensor - Intermittent fault
ECM-720A Immobilizer Communication - Faulty Communication

The terminals on the relay looked good but I couldn't find a procedure to test it electrically.

Do I have to drop the tank to get to the pump? AllDataDIY's navigation gives me fits.

Cheers,
BS
 
  #6  
Old 04-27-2009 | 08:24 PM
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I would pop the cover off the relay and check all the solder joints.

You can access the fuel pump through the trunk.

Also make sure all ground connections are good.
 
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Old 04-28-2009 | 07:23 PM
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Tech,

Pulled the cover on the relay: all the connections were good. There weren't any signs of a blown up component (capacitor, resistor, diode, etc.)

I can hear the fuel pump running and it doesn't seem to be tearing itself apart. The ground on it seems fine but I cleaned it up anyhow with a wire brush.

I unplugged the Idle air control valve on a whim and it ran better (idle increased to 1100rpm) and it was less inclined to stall however it eventually did.

I'm thinking of checking the fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the rail, is it worth it to get a test gauge? Thoughts?

Cheers,
BS
 
  #8  
Old 04-28-2009 | 08:01 PM
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I would check the pressure next.
 
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