I have gone through the posts -- most seem to apply to newer models.
May be no connection but I'll give the whole story. Revived my remote fobs by getting new cases and batteries, haven't used in 7 years. Used all of the tricks shown to reactivate them and it appears the lock/unlock doors trick and pushing one button activated them. I'm happy but I come back 5 hours later and activate the panic button to show my wife and the horn is extremely weak (didn't realize that the trunk light comes on as soon as you press the release button, i confirmed that the trunk light had been on). I jump in the car to start it and got nothing but low battery indications (weak lights, faded ding, etc). Pull out the charger, clean the terminals (they had fair amount of white power) and hooked it up; no start or even engagement of the starter but all other position II functions returned to normal (even heard the fuel system noises). The radio code was required and I entered it and have radio without issue. Still no starter action. Then I note that the charger on either start or normal charge is swinging from left to right and the fully charged lights cycles each time the needle moves. Checked again this am and still no start, same conditions but the charger (removed prior to last night) did not act the same way, the fully charged light is not on and it's charging. Still no starter action or clicking even when switched to Start position. Head lights are always on in the II position (even when I switch the dial to the 9 o-clock position which should be off) and in both dial positions they turn off when I attempt to start but return when I release the key to the II position. Anti theft light blinks when the ignition is off and is solid when in position II. Any clues?? Really appreciate all thsi forum has done for me in the past.

S70 Wagon 1999
Have radio code
Replaced battery- reset radio code
Car will not start
Idiot lights go on in position 2 and 3
When try to start car headlights go off
Radio works. Anti-theft light blinks when off and steady on when in II position,
Tried disconnecting/reconnecting battery
Tried holding key in unlock position for 10 seconds x 3
Tried unlocking and locking drivers door with key 3- 5-10-15 times
Do have both original remotes
Do not appear to have a key with a chip
Do have both original "Volvo" keys
Checked all fuses in the main panel and fuse box under the hood - all powered both sides.

Do I need a separate anti-theft code?
Any other suggestions?

 

Got a new battery and it didn't fix anything. I was told to disconnect the positive and negative cables, let them sit for 5 minutes and then touch them together prior to reconnecting the battery. Didn't work; waited 5 minutes the first time and 1.5 hours the second time.

Getting desperate here.......please!

 

Hey why do you think this would have to do with the new key fobs you got?

Did you just buy the car?

So what's happening is your battery is draining while the car is off?

I am trying to get towards an answer with you because I used to have a similar issue which was extremely annoying.

 

Got the car to start and run. New battery, looks like that wasn't it but she was almost 4 years old so a good time to replace. The car alarm worked fine once I shut the hood (forgot I won't arm with the hood open). The dealer told me that the immobilizer would have caused the lights to flash and horn to sound when I tried to start so he was sure that wasn't it. Finally got the control wire off of the starter (T5 is the tightest car under the hood) and got no light when cranking, rehooked and tried again by placing the test light point on the spade terminal and the car cranked (scared the hell out of me). A repeat try and she cranked again. WHen I got behind the wheel no joy until I cycled the clutch (yes, she is a 5 speed!). Car ran just fine but still won't start without the cycling. It's got to either be the starter relay or the clutch interlock switch, I'm looking for testing guides and will post what I find. I also checked the relay socket and had one slot hot all the time and one hot only when cranking, took that as a good sign.

I've owned the car since 2000 and the remotes were new cases only ($13/pair), I took my old guts, installed new batteries and reassembled. they work perfect.

 

Saw that you flushed your PCV system, can you explain how? Did this require removing the manifold or can you do it in place. I've been worried about mine.

 

My mechanic did that while he had the head off to do a valve job on my car, I know the intake manifold has to come off for that job. That's why I wanted him to do it while he was in there.
It's something worth looking at especially if you have oil coming from the oil filler cap or smoke coming out the dipstick hole.
There are lots of DIY posts in case you want to do it yourself. If you can't find one I'll find one let me know.

I just ordered an empty key fob shell myself cost me 13.00 but only for one.

Coming from the US, I'm in Toronto.