The car cranks but wont start.
I have a good battery and altenator or startor. The starter I see but not sure this Volvo has both. But for my issues.
My S70 cranks but wont start. I tried to use a jump wire for the fuelpump fuse and no start.
I tried to test the camsaft sensor and I got no reading at the 321 the 3 post of the connection cable of the sensor. I had set the dial to both OHM 2K and BAT 12V. The book told me to test for volts. So dial set at 12V, I put the red probe to each pin and ground to the blk probe. Nothing. I turned the dial to OHM 2k and did the same . NO reading.

Can I get any info woud be geatly appreciated.
Thank you.

 

What year is your car? 98 is very different than 99-2000

 

Oh !
Im in this pench and forgot to state a 98!

 

98 has a distributor cap and 1 coil - do you have spark from the coil when trying to start? Do you have fuel pressure? Fuel pump relays do fail (not sending power to the fuel pump) but not usually when cold, but possible. Is the timing belt still spinning the camshafts?

98 cam position sensors can be a problem, is yours still intact? Any self diagnostic codes stored?

 

Quickest way to determine if a fuel problem or an electrical problem is causing it is to do this. Get a spray can of starting fluid from the auto parts store. Take hose off of the air filter box and spray a 1-2 second burst into the hose toward the engine. Try to start the car. If the car tries to start, or starts and runs for a second or two, you have a fuel delivery problem. IF it never tries to start, it is a spark/electrical issue. You may have to try the spray 2-3 times over a 5 minute period to get an accurate determination.

 

From what I recall, the 98s are very similar in set up to the 850s so check out some of RobertDIY's vids on Youtube for running tests like measuring fuel pressure (there should be a schrader valve (like a tire) on the end of the fuel rail to measure pressure, you can easily jumper the fuel pump relay to see if the pump is engaging to full pressure (should be 38-43 PSI or so). As hoonk noted you can easily test for spark and hopefully if you have an issue with a cam or crank sensor, you should have a fault code. Time to inspect the distributor cap and wires? Another item to check is the fuel injector relay - on the 850s its up front near the fan shroud, again suspect the same for the 98. If this relay dies, you'd have spark, fuel and no start... Lastly, does it spin at the normal cadence? (ie is the timing belt intact, do you have compression?).

 

Yes, the 98 850's are almost identical to the 93-97 850's (we have had both). It wasn't until 1999 that they went to the damn ETM and its associated issues, along with coil on plug ignition.

 

Thank you!
I will keep you posted .

 

Im glad you asked. It makes two diffrent start sounds when I turn it over.
One sound with the camsaft connected ,nothing disconnected in fact, has bassic out of gas sound with a grag and drop sound. With the cam sensorn disconnected,
it sounds like a basic out of gas sound with no drag, drop sound. Just the crank no start.

I have sound bits to send via email if possible

 

I took off the fuel pump relay, it read 1533- 1594, two readings I got on the pararlele prongs; (facing). with meter set at 2k OHMs. Then set @ 200k OHMs = I got 4.5.
Opposit prongs, 1367. The pararlele prongs reading should of been 74-87(?).

Thanks again.

 

I was having issue with crank no start, before and it stoped after the smog box was change.But maybe the relay had only falied and just by coenceadence starting working again because it was a process to the final fail. And it was southern CA. I get to Orgeon No problem, the next night ok. But once I got to my final destination and it didnt run for a week, very cold, No start. Its the same crank no start problem with an added drag and drop to the crank no start. I have sound of the problem before and after.
I took off the camshaft relay and tried to start it and the drag drop disapiared , back to crank no start. Simpel out of gas sound.
I tried testing the fuel pump relay off the car and got the following .continuity test OHM. Got a 1533-1594 @ the parallel post. I got a reading of 4.5 same prongs but set to 200K
opposite prongs i got 1367 should be 72-75.

I tested the cam shaft relay and got nothing ohms set to 2k on meter.

Imstarting to scracht my head but will get back at in the am.
Thanks for all the advice.

 

Do you hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds when you turn the ignition switch to "on" (position II) and not the crank/start position? This test is best if the car has been sitting for a few hours. If you hear the pump running the relay is working. If not, it could be the fuel pump relay or fuse. You can pull the fuel pump relay out and jumper it with wire and spade terminals. Do a search in the 850 forums for how to do this. Have you tried the starting fluid trick I posted earlier. It will help you determine if the issue is fuel related or electrical related.

 

Thanks man you rock.
Volvos are the best>

 

P.S.
Since I am waiting to get a can of spray, would carb cleaneer spray work to jump start?

thanks again.

 

when I tried to start the engine, it sounmds like its out of gas at first, then it sounds like drags and drop. after I disconnected the cam and tried to start it, the sound change to just a basic out of gas sound and didnt inclued the drag and drop sound at the end. I did an OHMs test on the cam sensor and got no reading.

Maybe the cams bad.
Thank you for your reply.

 

It will work, just not as good as starting fluid

 

Hey mt6127

I just did a spray test into the air box hose closest to the engin. I could see the valve plate open when I had someone press the gas so as to spray inside. The car spit out the gas I sprayed when they tried to start it but it never started.. I have the sound that the car makes at start with the cam sensor attached and then with the cam sensor off. Diffrent sounds. The drag and drop at the end of the crank no start that began when i left it a week without starting it happened. Well that drag and drop stops when I disconnect the cam sensor. After that< I get just the basic out of gas type of crank no start sound.

I wish to send you the sounds if I may.

Thank yiu for your help.
Im really in a bind.

 

Thank you .
I put gas into a spray bottle and spray some into the intake. It just spit it back out at the same time it blew a little flame and went out>
Is the gas to rich to combust with the engine at that close rang to the intake.
Could the spray test be done with gas?

Thanks a bunch.

 

I personally would not do the test with raw gas. One, it probably is too rich a mixture to combust properly at that close to the intake/throttle, secondly, starting fluid works well as it vaporizes quickly to combust easily. If you said you got a little flame it sounds like you have proper spark, so that would tend to rule out an electrical problem. I would focus on it being a fuel delivery issue. Did you ever hear the fuel pump running or try a jumper on the fuel pump relay? If you jump the fuel pump relay you should hear the pump constantly running. IF not, then the fuel pump is bad.

Until you can try the starting fluid test, here is what I would suggest.

1. Check all the fuses with a multimeter. Just looking at them is not always a good indicator of a good or bad fuse.
2. Listen to see if you hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds with the key in the "on" position.
3. Jumper the fuel pump relay to see if the fuel pump runs constantly.
4. Take the timing belt cover off and make sure the belt is tight just to make sure it did not jump time.
5. Lastly, I never asked...is the check engine light on? If so, can you read the codes and find out what they say.

We will get this sorted out one way or the other.

 

If you have Fuel pressure (test with gauge), injectors opening (test with noid light) and spark. You might have lack of compression. (test with compression gauge) The early cars (pre99?) with hydraulic lifters have this problem. With the battery fully charged does the engine sound like it is spinning over faster? If you sprayed gas into the intake, held the throttle open and you had "a little blue flame that went out" it's possible your intake valves are stuck open.

If so there are many theories as to why this happens - but is easy to solve. There is a nickname for it - called lawnmower syndrome. Named that because if you start the car and pull it out of your garage to move your lawnmower - letting the engine run for just a few seconds - the car will not restart. Remove and clean/replace the wet plugs, some put some a small amount of oil in the cylinders, fully charge the battery and leave the charger connected and turned on, Open the throttle all the way (don't let up until the car starts) and engage the starter. The engine will begin firing on 1 then 2 then 3 cylinders - finally firing on all. If you let up on the starter you have to start over again. Yes you will think you are going to melt the starter - but it's the only way to get the engine to start. If may take what seems like a few minutes for the engine to catch, after that warm it up, drive it around and always run the engine for a few minutes after starting. You might want to change the oil also - it's probably contaminated with gas by now.

Google "Volvo lawnmower"