Volvo S70 Made from 1998 to 2000, this sporty model replaced the 850 sedan and instantly became a hit.

Muffler replacement

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Old 10-14-2013, 07:45 PM
kwatt's Avatar
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Default Muffler replacement

The S70 failed inspection for a bad muffler. The muffler appeared in good order but after removal, there was a 3" long x 1/2" wide gash in the top half.

Its a fairly easy process to replace it. I got a replacement for $170 from Summit Racing (shipping was free, YES!) and it tool 2-3 days to get it. Beats the $800 the indy was going to charge me for a new muffler and install.

The old exhaust had a resonator in the back. It will have to be cut off to get the exhaust out. The new muffler does not have the resonator. I am going to keep the 2nd resonator in case I don't like the sound. I will cut the pipe in the back and use a stainless band clamp to attach it so I don;t have to have flare the pipe. we'll see how that works out.



Things you need:
  • Muffler assembly
  • Back tail pipe
  • new hangers if the old ones are not longer good
  • new clamp for the joint if the old one is bad
  • (2) 10mm - 1.25 x 30mm flange nuts and bolts, if you reuse the old clamp
  • exhaust cement
  • 2 3/4" u-clamp
  • couple of screwdrivers
  • Something to cut off the clamp nuts
Procedure:
  • Set the parking break
  • Raise the front and use a jackstand to secure itl Raise it as far as you can manage ( wheel 2+" off the ground) since you will need the room to work and to re-install.
  • The pipe to the front is a ball/socket joint. It is held together with a clamp and 2 bolts. I cut the nuts off with a dremel tool. I did not get a new clamp.
  • Remove the clamp. The catalytic converter has a mesh pipe which makes it move. You want to secure the pipe so it doesn't move around when you are taking the hangers off or removing the muffler. I used a small piece of 2x4.
  • Remove the muffler hanger toward the center of the vehicle first. It's inconvenient to remove it and you don't want to have to deal with the weight of the muffler. I had to use 2 screw drivers to get it off. If you got new hangers, cut the rubber hanger off (not the metal hanger itself).
  • Remove the other hanger. Same as above.
  • The back is secured by another set of hangers with the back resonator. Te hanger was pretty deteriorated and in hindsight I should have cut off the U-clamp as I had to do this anyway (more in a second on that).
  • You will have to cut the pipe behind 2nd resonator. There is no way to get this apart without cutting the pipe somewhere. I am contemplating re-using the 2nd resonator at a later date, depending on if I am OK with the way it sounds without it.
  • Remove the muffler and piping.
  • Getting the new muffler in will be a little challenging. The rear of the vehicle needs to be raised so the read wheel is a good 2" off the ground. With the muffler assembly under the car, work the end between the body and the suspension. Go easy as the hangers will catch on stuff. The channel for the front pipe is a helpful place to make a little room while you maneuver the pipe around.
  • The hangers on the replace ment were about 2" too far towards the back. I had to reuse the old hanger assembly. I used a new 2 3/4" u-clamp. I positioned it and secured the clamp. I left the new hangers as is.
  • Raise the muffler and reinstall the hangers.
  • Apply exhaust cement to the ball/socket joint
  • Connect the ball and socket joint and attach the clamp. Make sure the groove in the clamp is at seam. You wnat the clamp to fit correctly as you tighten it. As you tighten it will want to move around, so be patient. Also, to make sure the piping was stright, I used a support to hold themuffler pipe in place while I was tightening, it takes the weight of the muffler so you don;t have to support it while you are working.
 

Last edited by kwatt; 10-14-2013 at 07:49 PM.
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