Still dealing with a no start situation:

Sprayed starting fluid into the intake and nothing.

Tested the ignition coil...everything tests fine. Primary leads tested and show 1.5 ohms. Secondary shows 9 kilohms.

I'm at my wits end with this car. The only code was 102 when tested on an obd II scanner...which I replaced the MAF with a new Bosch unit.

Had changed distributor cap and rotor over the summer. Can't recall if previous owner changed wires.

Is there any way to test for spark from the coil wire...without killing myself???? ;-)

Here's how I tested for spark on the plug wire(s)...put screwdriver in plug wire and cranked with the screwdriver placed close to the engine metal...no spark at all.

What else could I check?

Thanks for any help.

Ken

 

You don't want to check for spark that way on these cars. It can be harmful to the electronics.
They make a spark tester tool that fits into a spark plug boot. They're pretty cheap, but they provide resistance for the spark to pass through and allow you to check without getting electrocuted.
You could also use a timing light. Hook it up and turn the engine over, if it flashed there's juice flowing through the wires.
The coil resistance you gave is good, are the connections loose or dirty? Are the grounds clean?
What about fuses? have you checked those?
Does the battery read good voltage when it's cranking?
Maybe take the cap back off and see if it was defective?

 

I went to Advance Auto Parts earlier to get a test light for the plug wires...they didn't have one. So, had to go old school. Took a plug wire and inserted a spark plug and plugged the other end into the coil. Nice blue spark when grounded.

Plugs look fouled...black and shiny.

So, it's got to be the cap, rotor or wires. Wow, this has been crazy.

Yes, all fuses are fine.
Battery is hooked up to a battery charger for good measure since it got drained.

Didn't know about the timing light. I don't own one, but sounds like a good investment.

Thanks for your suggestions Paulie!

Ken

 

I'm wondering if the afm went out, and when the new one went in the plugs were already fouled out so it started and ran like crap and stalled. Then came the no compression scenario followed by more cranking which finished off the plugs. Sort of like a domino.
Let me know how it works out, I'll help you anyway I can.

 

Thanks again Paulie. I think you're right about the domino effect.

Just tested to make darn sure no spark was happening on the plug wires. Pulled plug and grounded to chassis with plug wire attached...got one spark and that was it. So, definitely an issue with spark to the plugs.

I'm going to purchase new plugs, cap and rotor. I'm hoping I can purchase a coil wire without buying an entire set of wires. If not, then I'll get a set of wires.

The only parts store close to me is Advance Auto. Are these guys OK to buy electrical parts or should I wait and purchase from the dealer?

Ken

 

they may not be the best thing out there, but they work and I've used them with no trouble.

 

Got the car running! :-)

Here's what I changed:

MAF
Wires
Dist. Cap
Dist. Rotor
Ignition Coil

Changed the MAF due to P0102 code. Changed the coil due to a crack that had gone undetected until this morning.

Purrs like a kitten at idle.

HOWEVER...took it for a quick drive. While climbing a hill, the car died. Quickly restarted and attempted to continue climbing the hill...car died again. Restarted the car and just coasted down the hill backwards (no room to turn around), car stayed running. Drove the car back to my house without issue.

The vehicle has thrown another code. Unfortunately, I don't have a code reader in my possession at the moment.

My thoughts at the moment include:

Fuel pump might be weak.
Low on fuel (fuel gauge doesn't work)
ICV (not sure about this one at all)

Anyone else have thoughts as to what might be causing this issue while climbing a hill?

Ken

 

I would cast my vote for low on fuel, as it's the easiest to check. I'm glad you got it running. what'd that wheel noise turn out to be?

 

Hey Paulie,

Oddly enough, the brake issue didn't show up when I test drove the car.

One more thing to add to this thread for anyone following. I was having an issue with WOT (wide open throttle). I thought it was just happening while climbing a hill yesterday. Turns out it was anytime I was more than partial throttle.
Got the car back home today after another shakedown. Decided to check the ICV after noticing the car was hunting a little bit at idle. Pulled the unit and found the door/valve not functioning freely. Took some brake cleaner and cleaned from both ends. Got the valve free.
Reinstalled and test drove the car. Ran like a scalded cat. Not a miss at all.

I'm thankful to have this puppy running so well now. My sister should've kept up with maintenance...but, I guess like so many others, simply neglected until it broke down

I'll be sure to post any new findings with this car as I'm surely going to become quite familiar with it's operation.

Ken