1999 Volvo S-70 (base edition)/116K miles

I've searched various Volvo forums and haven't really found a definitive answer to this problem other than my door locks are going bad. My door locks work fine (both manually, with the car's automatic door locks, and with the remote lock/unlock) during normal conditions. However, here lately when the temperature has been getting in that 95+ degree range, the driver's door, and to a lesser extent the driver's side back door, stop working. It's as if the heat is causing the malfunction because once I get on the road with the AC going, it works fine. Also, I haven't had the first problem with them in the mornings after it's been sitting the garage all night. I have also found I don't have any problems if I park it in the shade on the hot days.

Any ideas what the extreme temperatures are doing to keep my locks from working??

 

Welcome to the forum Andwri21.

One solution is to move to Nome, Alaska.

The other is that the main lock switch/window cluster is on the blink. But when you see the cost to replace it, you will opt to live with this minor inconvienience. Happy motoring.

 

Sorry all I can help with is the locks are going bad. The hear must be causing the micro switches to stop working.

 

I was wondering on this too. So the door locks are electric and not air pumps(like vw's?) right?

I have the same issue, only when sitting in the sun on hot days, only the driver door. works unlocking manually, just doesn't work with keyless until it cools down.

[X(]
Think it's worth it if I can find a decent used one in a car? I looked and saw about $130 new?

thanks for helping!

 

A used one might work fine.
Yes electronically controlled.

 

its the same with the front passenger side on mine. I have noticed that if I just hit the unlock one more time it will go up. So turn 1 drivers unlocks, turn two rest of car unlocks(minus the front passenger), turn it once more and it goes right up. This only happens to me when it hot out. So I would try just hitting it one last time before you jump for a replacement.

 

Don't bother with a used master switch as you never know how long you'll have until it eventually fails. Spend the $130 to get an OEM switch (do not pay $80-90 for a Scantech knockoff switch because you will be sorry very quickly). I just replaced the master switch in both of my 98s with OEM switches. The switch is easy to replace yourself so it's only the cost of the part. Considering the switches lasted 10 years before needing to be replaced I can't complain too much...