Volvo S70 Made from 1998 to 2000, this sporty model replaced the 850 sedan and instantly became a hit.

Rough first start then car stalls but starts perfect second try

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Old Jul 23, 2020 | 05:15 PM
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Default Rough first start then car stalls but starts perfect second try

So my 2000 s70 just started having a weird starting issue it doesnt wanna start up and stay going on the first try i move the steering wheel and itll stall out but when i turn the key a second time it starts right up and the engine seems to run normal im thinking maybe an issue with not recieving enough fuel at the initial start was thinking maybe the fuel pump relay i hear those are a common failure but it sounds like what i believe to be the fuel pump hums for about 10 to 15 seconds so maybe not or maybe the pump itself is going any input would be appreciated
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 08:44 AM
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It definitely could be the fuel pump relay, or the fuel pump itself. Is the check engine light on or any fault codes present? If so get those read and it will help point you in the right direction. Lastly, when is the last time it had a full tune up (filters, plugs, plug wires, etc.)? MY suggestion would be a good complete tune up as a good baseline to start from......
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 09:48 AM
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**** i forgot to mention that but yeah no codes poppin up i just bought the car 2 weeks ago its got 100k miles on it so your probably right she probably does just need a good tune up ill probably start with the relay than and see if that fixes it and if not i guess ill test for spark and go from there
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 12:07 PM
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As with any newly acquired used car, its never a bad idea to baseline the tune but I think the 2000 S70s were the first year Volvo went to the single coil per cylinder design so other than plugs, there's not much to tune unless you start getting a CEL for misfires. Swapping out all the coils can be somewhat expensive so I'd replace when you get a CEL. I'd be more suspect for fuel pressure at start up (ie FPR, pump, fuel pressure regulator or perhaps a dirty injector that's leaking fuel. I'm not sure but the 2000s may also have the injector relay (similar to the 850s) up by the radiator shroud. I'd inspect the plugs first to look if any are wet, then throw in a can of Techron to see if that can clean up the injectors, then test the fuel pressure at start up. Note if your fuel pump relay turns out to be the root cause, you may want to measure the pumps current draw as it may be on its last legs.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 12:30 PM
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Alright thanks for the input ill have to do some more tests i did a look over at all my sensor connections yesterday since i did find the ac compressor wasnt connected i guess i should probably look at the coils again just cleaned oil off the top of the engine so maybe i didnt plug one back in all the way ill just have to really mess with it this weekend and hunt down the real problem figured id try and do some research throughout the week
 
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Old Jul 25, 2020 | 08:51 AM
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Just a tip.....if you do decide to change the spark plugs, the 850/S70 tends to be kinda finicky. Go with either OEM volvo plugs, or NGK. They are about the only ones I found that work well and last........Also, I hesitate to ask, but do you know the last time the timing belt was changed? They are due every 80,000 miles. Not a hard job if you take your time and are comfortable with tools, Takes about 3-4 hours start to finish.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2020 | 11:50 AM
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Im pretty positive it is the fuel pump now didnt wanna believe it at first because i got like 6k in shop repair records from the previous owner thought i seen fuel pump on there but it was the fuel filter .. the timing belt was done about 10k miles ago i may have to mess with it sooner though looks like its pretty close to the edge on the cover side but idk ive seen a few pictures of other peoples like that so maybe i can let it ride and just change it a little sooner they only put like 10k miles on it in 3 to 4 years after doing it
 
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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 09:47 AM
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Yes, my belt runs a little close to the edge as well. In fact I just ordered all the parts to do it next week, as it is once again due. If you do change the fuel pump, I would suggest changing the relay at the same time.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2020 | 02:46 PM
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Yeah i just bought the kit figured i plan on owning it awhile was just hoping to hold off a while before doing the pump gotta replace the ac compressor as well than onto the suspension so i got my work cut out for me the next the couple weeks before i can really get to stage 0
 
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Old Jul 27, 2020 | 08:38 AM
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Take it one step at a time and don't rush anything. For the most part these cars are fairly easy to work on.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 10:11 PM
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Well im lost now ... replaced fuel pump and relay issue was still occurying had a code for p1332 before all this that i realized could be part of the issue had the part already so installed it and now im sitting worse than before .. car still started rough and would shift into reverse but not neutral no codes popping up.. and now the fuel pump wont even engage in the 2 position and on top of that i couldnt get the garage closed so had to get it in neutral to push it in and now the shiftlock override buttons stuck and key wont come out so now im back scratching my head at the drawing board
 
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 11:38 PM
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Update codes bcm0070 bcm0074 and ecm9400 all popping up now would any of those cause a no start.. all seem to be brake issues idk maybe volvo has a safety system that shuts off the fuel pump due to one of these it only started rough the first time shut it off and on a few times started up perfect everytime decideded the cvvt solenoid probably just needed some oil to run through it then i put it in reverse and it kinda hesitated and the shifter wouldnt go to neutral put it back in park and shut it off and then the fuel pump stopped engaging
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 03:20 AM
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Keys out and i do not plan on touching the shiftlock override again
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 09:38 AM
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Did you have the battery disconnected when you did the work? If so it might have just needed to re-learn a few things. Here is what I would do.......Clear the codes first. Second, disconnect the battery again... Third one at a time remove and re-seat the engine computer module and the transmission control module (they are in the square black box on the passenger side just behind the washer fluid fill tube) When they are out, look for any corrosion or bent pins. Fourth, re-install modules, reconnect battery, turn key on and listen for fuel pump. Then try to start the car and see what happens. If for some reason the car will not start, put the old fuel pump relay (if you still have it) in and try it. Then the old pump if you have it. Once in a while you get a bad new part. Keep us posted, we will get this figured out for you. These are good solid cars, they just get cranky sometimes!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 09:42 AM
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Check this out for your P1332 code https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=21162
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 12:40 PM
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Damn yeah now that you say it .. i did completely skip removing the battery dropped the car after changing the oil and it completely slipped my mind.. hopefully i didnt just short everything out ill have to try clearing codes like you said and see if it comes back right away or not
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 12:45 PM
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And yeah thats the forum i was following (atleast tried too but of course i skipped an important step) i did take the pump relay out and put the old one in and the fuel pumps engaging again for like 2 to 3 seconds put the new one back in and its working again boutta try and start her up again in a lil bit here see if i can get her to turnover today
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 01:24 PM
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After clearing codes only ecm9400 came back up
 
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Old Aug 9, 2020 | 01:52 PM
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Alright i got it to start back up now it just sits there cranking on the 1st go so maybe it is a spark issue like you stated earlier so next will probably be coils and plugs and it sounds like the ecm 9400 could be the sensor on the brake booster itself also seen something about a seal on the booster that could be bad which sounds like it could be part of my problem since my brake pedal does seem like i have to push it to the floor to stop at times
 
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Old Aug 10, 2020 | 08:39 AM
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Ok, sounds like you are heading in the right direction and things are looking better. DEFINITELY get the brake issue sorted out. Check the pads for thickness and calipers and hoses for any leaks and cracks. Wouldn't hurt to bleed the brakes and fill with fresh fluid, just don't let the master cylinder reservoir get too low when you are bleeding or you will get air in the ABS module and that can usually only be bled out by a brake shop. KEep at it and you will end up with a sweet running ride.
 
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