Hi folks. Am new here and glad to be on board so be nice. I've heard and so far read good things on here- got this link from a trusted friend of mine, thanks B. I have a few repair questions that I'll post later but I think this one is urgent. Anyway, I've owned my 99 S70 for almost a year now, bought it used and have since done some not too bad repairs on my own on it. I noticed (now that it's getting hot out here) that my a/c will stay on for the first 5-15 mins after it's been turned on and then cut itself off. The fan stays blowing warm air and I haven't had any error lights flashing or anything. The heat was fine in the winter and I can't figure the a/c out. Some have said turn it off then on again but that's never worked. I dread going to the dealer so, please guys help me out. I thought it might be low on freon, and thinking about getting it charged. I need expert advise before I do anything though but can't wait too long. Some have speculated that it might be the infamous $$$evaporator$$$ yes! What about the T-stat? I aslo hear that 850 and S70s are notoriusly known for this a/c issue. Anyone had this problem or any suggestions...please. I impatiently await your posts.
Gusto

 

Sounds like the compressor is bad.
When it happens again pull over somewhere and CAREFULLY take a long screwdriver and touch the outside of the compressor clutch.If it is mangitized then the compressor is bad.You should also get power with a test light with the car running and the compressor stopped if the compressor is bad.

You can take a stick and tap the outside of the clutch and it should kick back on till you accelerate hard again.Then it will kick off.

 

Am not sure I know the exact location of the the compressor clutch. And how long of a screw driver should I use? You don't think it's the freon or anything like that....

 

Look down on the bottom of the engine on the front part.Under the alternator that is the compressor.

I don't think it is a freon problem it is blows cold for 15 minutes then go warm.It would not blow cold from the begining.
The compressor will cycle every minute or two if it was low.

 

I guess that makes sense from that stand point. But if infact it is the compressor, is this an easy fix and can you give me any pointers. what do you suggest I use for the power test on the compresser and how do I use it. I do apologize if I sound too naive about this a/c thing...but this is a new territory for. The last thing I wanna do is spend money for something I don't have to and also, if am doing it I wanna make sure I do 'it' right from the beginning. So please bare with you. I really appreciate your feed back. Thanks!

 

You can use a test light and touch the outside part of the clutch with the engine still running.BE VERRY CAREFUL.
It should not have power when it is off.If it does then the clutch is bad.Also the trick with the screwdriver I told you about try that to.

The reason I say that is because the clutch works by an electronic magnet.When they go bad the clutch disengadges and the manget is still powered.Thats why if you have power or the screwdriver gets sucked in it is bad.

 

oK, tech, I did just that and the screw driver did not get caught or was not magnetized. I wasn't too convinced so I bought a circuit tester which has a long pointy screw driver looking thingy and a bulb with a ground wire attached to it. The bulb never came on. I didin't get what you said about the clutch and a "stick " so, I skipped that! But I noticed today, that the a/c actually stays on longer if the car hasn't been running then ofcourse, no cold air afterwards. The blower appears to be working cuz it never stops blowing only unless ofcourse I phisycally turn it off. I wish I could reference back to last summer but I bought the car used and towards the end of the summer. I thought (at the the time) that there was really nothing wrong with it besids, it wasn't as HOT. I haven't seen any error codes what so ever! In your opinion, are there any quick fixes or should I just brake my piggy bank for some $$$$ just to get the a/c working. It wouldn't so bad if I was'nt in Alabama but damn it's starting to burn up here!

Oh by the way while am at it-can you also tell where the throttle body is, cus I was told I could clean it myself. Whats your advise on this issue because just in a couple of days, I noticed my idling is acting eratically. Could this be an a/c related problem also? There's definitely a difference in the ride itself...some vibration when the engine is idling and also diminished acceleration. I had my oil changed last month, plugs a couple months back and I just put a set of new tires last week. I would think the ride would be much smoother with the new tires. I MUST say though, I haven't had the wheel alignment done yet but tires were balanced and all. I just wanna make sure nothing serious is happening now-sorry for being long winded!

[IMG]local://upfiles/2048/A2F96BC7AB14468DB7A83A7278B8CDA0.gif[/IMG]

 

First take the test light and get it to happen and then disconnect the low pressure switch.It is located in the pipe going into the car.Use the test light and check for power at the plug.You will only have it on one side.If you have power then plug it back in and then test the other side.If you have power on the other side then on the front of the compressor is a single wire.Test that and if you have power there and the compressor is not running then it is bad.

Back to the beginning if you have no power when you first chek for it then the control head is most likely the problem.


Second Im not sure if your car is turbo or non-turbo.
If it is non-turbo then follow the big pipe from the air filter housing to the engine.The throttle body is a big square peice with a wire cimming out of it.

If it is turbo there will be a big plastic hose going under the intake manifold it goes to the throttle body.
Make sure you buy a new gasket.Then remove the throttle body and clean good with a carb cleaner.Then reinstall.

You might also have to remove the bracket from the back of the starter to get the wiring for the throttle body out so you can remove the throttle body.

 

I did everything to the your specified advice. I think it's fair at this point to say compress is not functioning but I'll try to get it charged to see if I can have some a/c momentarily or atleast until I get it fixed. Also today, cleaned my throttle body (non turbo) using carb cleaner. It was pretty dirty I must say. When I started the car, the idling was eratic...up and down and I got the ETC and the ENGINE CHECK LIGHT both came on. I freaked out a little because am thinking aww sh*#. So I remember reading somewhere about the ETC light so, I turned of the engine and started it again and the idling is normal and no more ETC light on dash. However, the engine check light is still on and I don't know what that means. Tech, I guess I need your expert advice on this one. Do I need to take it to the shop so they can tell me what's causing it to come on? Is there a way to reset the engine check light? Thanks... Gus.

 

If you sprayed the carb cleaner with the throttle body still on the car it is from that.
It will go away after a couple of days.

If you jump the low pressure switch and the compressor doesn't come on then the compressor might be bad.

 

Tech here's some feed back regarding my issues. First, about the compressor...I was driving home today the a/c was working fine as it does after I start the car until 10 -15 minutes later it started blowing warm air like it does when I turn it on. I was close to a car wash so I pulled over, popped the hood and diconnected the compressor connector -(Yes I was careful.) Anyway, I was aware at this point that the compressor had shut off even with the engine running and the blower on max. I used my light tester and guess what...the damn light came on while the compressor was not cycling. Just to make sure, I had put a bio-thermometer at one of the dash vents and it read about 80-85 degrees (pretty hot huh). What advice do you have @ this point?
Second, the engine check light did go off last night but then again, the coolant warning light on the dash (red with a little radiator). So, I bought some 50/50 coolant at a local parts store and topped it off. The light hasn't gone off yet so while I was there, I asked the good folks there to check /scan the codes out for me. Here's what they got:-

PO118
Engine coolant temp circuit high input...

P1059
Manf cntrl fuel & air
metering, auxilliary
emission controls

**Do you think the TB cleaning I did messed up the emissions?**

P1032
Manf cntrl fuel & air
metering, auxilliary
emission controls

The guy thought I might need a new coolant sensor, thermostat and gasket and possibly drain coolant too. The stat was and gasket was about 10bucks. Waht do you recommend Tech?I don't know the last time the cooalant was changed on this car and I think I want to do that anyway. By the way, is it pretty easy to do? I think I mixed the old and new coolant when I topped it off( u thinking, bad idea?). Tech, I know you're a busy person but please, put my reply on your "to do list" help a brother out. You do a really good job here. Thanks chief!

 

Issue 1 at hand.You still had power and the compressor wasn't working.
That means the clutch is bad.The clutch is a pain to replace.Most of the time if you just replace the clutch the compressor goes out shortly after. I reccomend to just replace the entire compressor.


2.Sounds like the coolant temp sensor to me to.(that is for the first code)
The second and third code could very well be from cleaning the throttle body.Also could be from the bad coolant temp sensor.
I would replace the sensor,coolant,and thermostat and gasket.
Yes it is pretty easy to do.You can manage no problem.
Mixing the coolant isn't that bad.But I would put all new in with the new parts.

 

Thanks Tech. I thought since the compressor has power then there wouldn't be a need to replace it but if the clutch is a pain then, it only makes sense to replace the compressor altogether...ouch!! I guess I'll deal with the simple things first. I'll order the parts and all and I'll update you on that. Mean time, keep up the good advice...thank you!
By the way...thermostat&gasket, from local parts stores other than dealer any good? I'd rather oder the sensor from dealer what do you think? Thanks again!

 

Check with the dealer on the thermostat as well.
Before you order the compressor look on it and see if the electronic is still connected.
Where the wiring from the car goes to the compressor.Follow it and see if there is another sensor it runs through first.
If so unplug it and bypass and see if it happens again.
If it does then replace the compressor.
Sorry I just remembered about the sensor.

 

Hi everyone...hello Tech. I've since taken care of the coolant and sensor issues-no problems so far-thanks for your advice. Now back to the original post, well, after prolonging the trip to the shop, finally made it happen. Had the a/c checked at an authorized volvo repair shop (had a 2 week wait at the dealer.) So, it is infact the compressor thats messed up. What you had said earlier was right. The mechanic, told me that the clutch is not working in the compressor and so, replacing it would be what will fix the a/c issue. My ? is what all is involved in replacing it? I was given an almost $1000 tab to fix this. Tech, any pointers about this compressor issue...a DIY project or shop/dealer repair. Any good sites selling reasonbly priced compressors...thanks

 

It can be done at home.But you will need to have a shop remove the freon before you start and charge it back up when you are done.

If you decide to do it let me know and I will help walk you through it.

 

Hey Tech, it's been a while since I've been in here. I had a strange thing happen since my very last post. Turns out, my a/c has been working okey since...I hadn't done anything different or done anything period! I just drove my car outta town last summer and on my way back, I decided to turn the a/c on and guess what...It's been coming on ever since. I don't know what else to say except I cross my fingers every time I turn it on and hope it doesn't act up. So far so good I must say, what do you think might've happpened since we initially thgought it was the a/c compressor? I never followed up with the repair shop since I didn't think it was necessary besides, it was too costly. So, if anything different happens I'll let you know. Keep up the good work. Thanks!