S70 T5M Fixer Upper thread - Page 2 - Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum

Volvo S70 Made from 1998 to 2000, this sporty model replaced the 850 sedan and instantly became a hit.

S70 T5M Fixer Upper thread

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  #21  
Old 12-05-2018, 10:28 AM
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The crud situation turned out to be minor. The box was empty, and really the oil pan was clean. Just a little crud here.


Above, here is my super-fancy bridge. It works extremely well. I was doing considerable torquing on some things, like the motor mounts, with the motor hanging from this.
 
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  #22  
Old 12-05-2018, 10:53 AM
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Basically you release the motor mounts, the steering rack, ball joints, sway bar links, and unhook a few lines from clips. There is a screw that holds down the wiring harness hear the a/c compressor (missing on my car). There is a wire clamp screwed down above the driver's side tow hook. There is a little bracket that holds the power steering lines. That is all I can think of. I had to pick the car up by the floor pan of course. It has been deformed a little bit there before. When you lower the frame, the purge canister wants to come down, but the vent line from the gas tank does not. So you have to make a decision about that.

 

Last edited by firebirdparts; 12-05-2018 at 03:50 PM.
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  #23  
Old 12-05-2018, 10:56 AM
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And so, voila, here is the view with no frame.

I decided not to put a clutch in at this time. naturally, if it needs one next summer, I'll be a little bit disappointed, but I think I could get this frame out again in an hour or two.
 

Last edited by firebirdparts; 12-05-2018 at 03:51 PM.
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  #24  
Old 12-05-2018, 11:04 AM
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I had a complete front subframe and drivetrain sitting nearby, which I can use for illustrative purposes. This is the nut on top of the rear motor mount:

On a turbo car, the turbo is right over this nut, and I could not get a tool in there. So, to replace the rear motor mount, I had to remove the two brackets that attach it to the engine.
 
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  #25  
Old 12-05-2018, 11:06 AM
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The front and rear motor mounts were both about a half inch shorter than the new ones. Evidently they compressed quite a bit, as evidenced by the outer cables being loose.
 
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  #26  
Old 12-05-2018, 11:08 AM
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I found several forum posts about replacing the oil cooler lines, and eventually decided to go the $10 route. Gates oil cooler line is about $2.69 a foot and it takes less than 3 feet. Part of the original crimp connection cannot be cut without cutting the line, but I found I could break it by curling back both sides with end cutters.

 
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  #27  
Old 12-05-2018, 03:26 PM
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The timing belt had been done, but I just did it anyway. I replaced it while on the bridge, which was interesting. I thought maybe I wouldn't be able to. I did all the installation from below except for putting the belt over the top of the cams.


if you look down in there, you will see that the pin is still in the grenade.
 

Last edited by firebirdparts; 12-05-2018 at 03:53 PM.
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  #28  
Old 12-05-2018, 03:28 PM
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I decided this would be an easy time to take shims out of the a/c compressor clutch. Being unbiased, I have a bread bag clip on one side and a nylon wire tie on the other.

I used a cheap steering wheel puller I have had for 30 or 40 years and had only to embiggen the holes slightly with a rat tail file.
 
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  #29  
Old 12-05-2018, 03:37 PM
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After this, I turned my attention to the frame. I discovered that the one of the passenger side motor mount bolt holes was moved sometime between 1994 and 1998! I substituted a couple of tack welds. Then I drilled holes for a hose bracket, which was self-tapping, and I drill and tapped M5 holes for the accelerometer/shock sensor/whatever you call it.


It all fit back together just fine, including, fortunately, my welded on passenger side motor mount.
 

Last edited by firebirdparts; 12-05-2018 at 03:54 PM.
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  #30  
Old 12-05-2018, 03:41 PM
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Bonus footage....

That was not easy to get in there.
 
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  #31  
Old 12-06-2018, 10:55 AM
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I'm on ye olde maiden voyage today. So far so good! Sure needs an alignment. No check engine light! So I guess so far everything is happy.

The vacuum line rubber on this car is in pretty deplorable condition, and I certainly could have replaced it all, but I did not since I had so much stuff unhooked for so long. I would not be surprised however if I had opened up a few leaks due to the abuse I dealt it.

Also, the car is just about to hit 160,000 miles, so I figure it has maybe 100,000 "good" miles to go. When it was originally damaged, it was not "worth fixing" but it offers a lot of fun per dollar. My total parts cost was about $1300. I have Volvo motor mounts and PCV kit. The rest is quality aftermarket. If could still use a variety of "stage zero" type work, but all that stuff is easy to get to.

As always, I got great service from both FCP and IPD on their parts of it.
 

Last edited by firebirdparts; 12-06-2018 at 11:03 AM.
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  #32  
Old 12-07-2018, 09:52 AM
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Just got an alignment. They did a nice job. I told them it was a project, and I was able to talk to the alignment guy. I have a spare rear axle in reserve, and I would love to scrap it to get it out of my way. So the rear right was where the damage would be expected. The rear right has negative 1.6 degrees camber, which is just out of spec, barely. Both sides are toed in as far as they will go, but the toe is actually good. well, it's toed out 1/32 inch. Not ideal but in range. So I think I will be ditching my spare rear axle, unless it feels "wrong" after going around some twisty roads later. Whoever said these rear axles were aluminum, unfortunately, they're not.
 
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