Sorry if this post is redundant but I have a 2000 s70 normally aspirated car that sat for about a month, when I tried to start it it seemed to have jumped time. The reference material I have is crappy at best. the top cams seem to be aligned and I think the crank jumped a couple teeth. the funny part about this is I found a major mouse nest on top of engine and in airbox when I was doing initial diagnosis, but no signs of vermin inside timing cover. does anyone have an accurate pic of where the marks are supposed to be for me?

 

Sorry no accurate pick of the entire thing. But the top ones should be easy to figure out. The bottom is a little harder.
Here is a pic of the bottom setup. But if it jumped more than about 3 to 4 teeth I could count on having bent valves.


Also look on the inside of the tooth part of the pulley inside. There will either be one groove cut in the bottom of one of the teeth groove or there will be 2 marks on the end of the high parts of the teeth. If yours has the 2 marks the mark on the motor will be between the 2 marks on the gear.

 

The pic tech has of the crank is exactly what it should look like, even though the marks are a bit confusing, this is the easiest timming belt, that isnt an escort. the top is a bit more confusing, my 2000 N/A had notches in the cam gears, but nothing to line them up to. With the crank at its mark, the exhaust cam will have the notch all the way at the top, the intake is a bit more complicated. it is almost at the top, but remember, this cam has variable timming, so while the exhaust cam may be essenstialy held in place by the pressure of the valve springs, the intake, you can freely turn about 20 degrees, without physically rotating its camshaft. I think tech would remember if you should be able to turn the cam more to the right or left, before physically turning the cam, to have it lined up properly.

 

The timing marks for the cams line up with the top cover. The top cover needs to be on to make sure the marks are lined up.

 

So I attempted todo the timing belt change on my 98 S70 (non-turbo), but was foiled by two things, one of which included the mark in the lower crank pulley area. WhenI peered down into the cavernous recesses of the engine compartment with the timing cover off and the cam sprockets aligned with the top cover (Tech how many times have you had to tell people that you need to align those marks with the cover? geez... I read at least four posts where you graciously noted this), I could NOT find the infamous third mark to allign the markings on the pulley with. Does the picture you supplied above have that marking front and center just above the pulley? (Did I arrow the right spot here?)



Am I missing this mark by looking from above? I tried looking from within the wheel well, but couldn't interpret the Haynes jargon as to what to look for.
Also, the posting on Volvospeed that mentions you don't have to remove the pulley and you can still work the belt off, is this realistic? I busted an IPD cam sprocket holding tool trying to crack the central nut off the crank pulley and felt like a royal idiot. I'd like to think I don't have to fabricate a "special tool" they say must be made out of "steel strips" just to hold the pulley in place while trying to rachet off the central nut.



[IMG]local://upfiles/17551/630BC7851A444706A731992F98511BA6.jpg[/IMG]

 

I don't have a good picture from above. You marked the right spot where it needs to be lined up with. But you will not see it with the pulley still on. So look on the inside edge really good and you should see a cut in the groove for one of the teeth. Line that groove up with the spot you marked in the block and you will be fine. If you line the cams up with the top cover it shouldn't be that hard to find.

The belt can be walked off without removing the pulley but it is a major pain. Remove the plate with the 2 10MM screws that is behind the pulley. The screws are toward the front remove the screws and swing the pulley up to remove. Then you will have to turn and work the belt over the pin from the block. Sometimes it is also easier to remove the rubber sleeve on the pin.

 

What would you use to keep the crank shaft pulley from moving when trying to remove the central nut? Or does it matter since the belt hasn't been removed?

 

I always use an impact wrench and it takes the nut right off.

 

Okay, sorry to labor this point, but should I worry about turning the crank shaft at this point with my impact, or just drivethe central nut on the pulleyoff?

 

Remove the nut with the belt still on. Then remove the pulley and reinstall the nut. Then use a ratchet and extensions to make sure the timing marks are lined up. Then remove and install the belt then install the pulley after the belt is back on.

 

Excellent. Thanks for the great advice. I'm doing this on Wednesday, so if I can, I'll do a write up/photo journal of the repair. Also working through front strut replacement too, so I'll photo that as well.

 

Thank You

 

So I had purchased a puller for this operation to not break the rim of the pulley, but it didn't fit! Needless to say, it stopped the repair last night. Could you suggest a place to puchase a puller, or a size I should look for at the local parts store so that I don't damage the pulley?

Also, it should just grab the rear of the pulley for easy removal right? The puller I bought was a CV shaft removal puller...

 

You shouldn't need a puller. The only pulley you need to remove is the one for the serpentine belt. If you tap the pulley pretty hard with either a hard rubber mallet or even a metal hammer it should fall right off.

 

Geez, are you serious?[:@] Sheesh... I was too concerned about breaking that piece and rendering it undrivable till I got a replacement. I'll give it another shot and report back.

 

If you are really scared use a block of wood between the pulley and hammer.

 

On my 2000 S70, the plastic cover over the camshaft sprockets does not have the alignment notches. The plastic has an area that looks cut, straight across. What to do now?