Ok so i read up on my oil leak witch is coming from my oil cap and did a complete PCV system on it. I drove it that same day after i got the pcv swapped and i am still leaking oil from the cap. Also when i have the dipstick removed i have smoke that comes from that. I did thoroughly clean the ptc nipple. The only guess i have right now for the moment is piston rings are bad. I ave 197XXX miles on in and have the turbo death rattle goin on also. Is it possible the bad turbo is causing my extra crank case pressure? I am soon getting a new turbo but my new turbo is an upgrade im going with a 19t Mitsubishi turbo, and adding a 3" OBX turbo back exhaust. My only problem with that is i dont want to add more upgrades on it and have the pistons screw up if it is in fact the piston rings.
Suggestion, solutions, anything at this point just let me know if anyone has had the same problem. It was really frustrating to spend 5 hours on that PCV system and it not be the problem.

 

Replace the rubber seal under the oil cap. They get rock hard and the seal is sold separately for next to nothing.

Do not upgrade the turbo. Use the stock turbo, it is plenty. Start messing around and you'll blow the head gasket along with everything else.

 

Under NO circumstances should you EVER put a 19T turbo on a GLT. That's considered an iffy, risky and unpredictable swap on a T-5, even with its lower compression and thicker cylinder walls. Putting it on a GLT will most likely destroy your engine, and in short order. If you want a bigger turbo, get a 16T from a T-5. But keep in mind, a bigger turbo by itself won't improve performance without supporting mods that allow it to boost higher. This generally means some sort of tune on the ECU is in order, or a manual boost controller. Adding the bigger turbo alone, even with a freer- flowing exhaust, might actually reduce power, as the bigger turbo takes longer to spool up.

Another thing to consider- this engine has almost 200,000 miles. While they are known for going much further, you still need to ensure that that engine is ready for the extra strain of higher boost. Look up "stage 0" in some of the other modding threads- this is a minimum of maintenance work that should be done prior to playing around. You may want to have someone look at the engine's mechanical health, as well.

But DON'T put on the 19T. If you already bought it, sell it and get something more sane.

As for the oil leak, change the oil cap seal like tony said- it's a common leak point. Also, make sure you cleaned out the ports on the block where the PCV system's oil trap attaches. Otherwise, just changing the parts will have done nothing to reduce pressure in there.

 

Before you go further I think you should do a compression test. Pretty easy and is likely the test to do before you put any more time in the motor. I did one before I replaced my cam seals.
Compression Test - Volvo S70 GLT, 1998

As for the PCV system replacement, I have done two of them and my S70 still smoked out of the dip stick for about 1,000 miles. After that it was gone and I did remember to clean the ports that go into the block. As stated, do replace the oil cap seal. I don't think the turbo will cause crank case pressure.

 

Ok i do have a full stage 0. I replaced that cap once before less than 5000 miles ago. I should change it again? I will do a compression test right now.

 

A cap with less than 5,000 should be fine. Post back after compression test.

 

New cap, new pcv solved the leak from cap. Did compression test.
From timing belt side: 185,170,175,175,175, number 3 bled off 3 psi after about two minutes then stopped.

 

Started to leak from cap again. I am baffled.

 

Wow! Those compression numbers are impressive. Does anyone know what a newer motor's numbers are? I thought mine were good at 150ish.

Maybe you did something wrong on the PCV system replacement, like criscross the tubes at the oil box. Other than that, is your oil cap tight?

 

Yes i even took it out and kinda pounded down those two metal tabs so it woud hold tighter. The compression test was done cold. My dad whom works at roush said it wouldn't matter either way. But I'm almost one hundred percent positive on the pcv replacement but some of the angle pieces didnt seem like the right fit the on whih goes from the ptc to the intake manifold on the left side didnt quite fit prefectly. I wish i had took pictures. And also while i was doing the replacement i cleaned the bottom hole that goes into the crank case out which was horribly cruded up. But that 1st cylinder hit 195 the first time but i cranked it too many times the second time was about 190 so if anything cylinder one is a bit high? In any case im very unhappy about the hole thing. I bought the cap at Advance auto which it was probably a generic cap but again how could something so simple be screwed up.
Ok i looked at the diagram and the only two i could possibly have crossed was the one going from the ptc to the box and one from the top of engine to box. I may have done this i will check tomorrow morning but i almost certain i didn't.

 

Check the crankcase has vacuum when idling. Just take the oil cap off and use a piece of stiff paper to hold over the oil cap hole. If vacuum exists the paper will be sucked onto the oil cap hole, if no vacuum, it'll just sit there or be forced off if there is blowby.
Cylinder compression doesn't really tell us much about the crankcase venting system or blowby. The correct way to diagnose blowby is with a leak down test.

 

The compression test does tell of you have excissive egine wear correct? Like bad vales or postons? If you eliminate that you know it's something vacuum related correct?

 

Ok i will do the paper test now, and i have had an idea to do a leakdown test just gota wait till my dad has time in the shop. Is there anything simple like a bad vac line that can cause this?
My other question pertains to the turbo.
Can i use a 15g compressor wheel in my 13g housing. i want more power without paying more than 350 for my turbo tech to rebuild and hybrid me a 19t but everyone says thats too much power for my engine. Also is the 13g a flatback compressor wheel or a superback?

 

Ok i checked the way i hooked up the hoses at the box and yes the two top hoses are criss crossed i hope i can get to it without removing the intake... I'm an idiot. When i put it back together i was really tired and not paying attention this was at 3:30 am when i wake up at 7 so oops there....

 

That will do it...

 

Valves are totally irrelevant to crankcase blowby. By the time compression numbers are down, you're going to have much larger issues than just blowby being bad.
Compression testing merely shows that you have compression. Leak down testing shows if the rings are leaking into the crankcase. An engine with thick oil and high cranking speed can show acceptable compression when cold, but get it to temperature and blowby can be bad enough to cause problems.
Checking crankcase pressure goes straight to the problem at hand, and only then should you work back to diagnose what is causing the problem.

 

Yeah... Blowby and compression are related, but they don't go hand in hand. It doesn't take much compression loss- through the rings, of course, for blow- by to get stupid high, especially on a turbocharged engine. Leak- down testing is the only way to pinpoint a problem. Think of it this way: a compression check is a simple, cheap way to get a general idea of engine health. A leak- down test is more involved, and involves somewhat more expensive tools, but it will tell you what is wrong in there.

and rspi, remember that the GLTs have a higher compression ratio than the high- pressure turbo engines. Compression tests are also affected by things like temperature, battery charge, atmospheric pressure, and other things. Regardless, by Volvo's specs, anything above 156 on an HPT engine, 160 on an LPT engine, and 188 on an NA engine is fine. This assumes a fully charged battery, a totally warm engine, and wide open throttle. Cold engines, closed throttles, and slow cranking will affect the numbers.