99 s70, replaced left window module in December, worked great until June. Dealer gave me a replacement, but it acted the same way. When you try to roll down a window, it just makes a noise from the master switch in the driver door.

Dealer says it has to be the window regulator, a $350.00 part, no telling what to install it.

Research indicates there are multiple regulators. Why would all go out at the same time? Even the moonroof won't open.

Anyone have experience with this problem, or any insight into the expertise needed to intall this part? Right now I don't even know where the regulator is located.

 

The regulator is inside the door.

What kind of noise does it make?

I would remove the door panel and check for power to the window motor.

 

Thanks Tech;

Meanwhile my research did show me these are inside the door. I don't see why ALL the windows would go out simultaneously, of course I don't have a manual to see how they are supposed to operate.

The switch makes a clicking sound whenever any button is operated. It did the same when I put a new dealer switch in its' place. I've read some horror stories about how much it costs to replace these. I do have a small rivet tool, but I don't know if it will be sufficient for this should I need to replace the regulators.

Am I correct in assuming there is a regulator in each front door that takes care of every window in the car?

Steve

 

Yes each door has a regulator.

I have a hard time believing they all went out the same time to.
Make sure you have power going to each.

 

I have found the wiring diagram for the door switch and verified there is 12 volts getting to it.

Since all windows are out, I'm thinking the ground may be missing from the master switch. It appears to be a slate wire in the power harness.

Trouble is I don't know where to find the block that the wire runs to.

Today I will be putting my own ground there to see if the window will work. If I can get that to work, I may just ground the switch to the door and let it go at that.

More to come.....

Thanks so much for your input....

 

Working, but not exactly fixed:

Found that the 12 volt supply to the master door switch MUST have a high open in it. I even swapped the overload relay with the seat overload relay to make sure it wasn't that. (Those guys were hidden under the supplemental fuse box.)

While I can measure 12 volts at A2 on the switch connector, it won't operate the windows. I suspect that when I had the driver door welded to repair the hinge, they must have hit that particular wire in the 24 pin harness that travels through the door into the dash.

Temporary solution: Place a wire from the 12 volt side of the driver door warning lamp to A2 on the master switch. Now all the windows and the sunroof work.

Possible problem: The ignition switch doesn't have to be on, and if the fuse to the door lights blows, the windows won't work. Other than that, methinks this may become my permanent solution.

I have to remove the door properly inspect the wiring harness plug, but I suspect the problem is behind that, so I would have to remove the underneath dash access to get to that portion of the harness. As long as this solution is working, I'm going to delay that move.

 

I wish I knew before that you had the door welded!!

Remove the little screw in the ring for the door harness.
Turn the ring to release the plug and inspect the pins really good the one you loose power from might have backed out when they installed the plug.

 

It had totally slippedmy mind about the weld. The plug is EXTERMELY difficult to remove and inspect with the door on. I was able to remove the plug, but I can't get to all the pins/plugs

The pin measures 12 volts at the window switch , but won't operate the windows. I expect the pin may be not making proper contact, but for now that further detail will need to wait till I have the time to do it.

Thanks.

 

Sometimes if you just unplug and reinstall the plug it will make a good connection.
Once the screw is removed the turn the ring and it should unplug easy.
Look with a mirror on the body side and see if a pin backed out.

 

Subscribing for future reference.

 

Good evening,

Very useful thread. Having identical challenge, however I also noticed that the driver's side cluster switch got very hot. As well I noticed that it somehow melted the fuse panel immediately around the specific fuse (under the hood). I re-assigned the fuse to a new (empty) location. Now all the windows and moon roof work except for the driver's window. That particular switch just "clicks" and vibrates a bit as if resisting when I depress it. I figure it is the regulator.

BTW anyone in the Toronto area must get to know: Volvo Guys - 468 Gilbert (Eglinton and Caledonia) 416-538-6586. Incredibly knowledgeable. Fair. Reasonable. Volvo only salvage / used parts.

To give you an idea - Just replaced:
Control arm - literally new not a scuff $75
Power Steering Pump - from an S60 - matches - $125
Window Regulator - complete assembly - $75
Blower Motor - $75

Thanks
A