After having the throttle body replaced on my 04' S80 T6 the car ran great for a day and a half-went out to start the car half way thru day two and it would barely idle, ran rough. Tried disconnecting the negative battery cable and touching it to the positive cable for about 5 seconds as advised by Volvo mechanic to reset the computer, restarted the car-this time it idled to fast, up and down between 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. Tried driving the car this way-not good, when slowing from 55 to 30 mph car shudders, when driving at speed the car feels like it is shifting any time you slow slightly or accelerate. Long trip back to thye Volvo shop, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

Where did you get the TB from?

 

Kline Volvo-White Bear Lake, MN

 

Call and tell them the problem. Should be under warranty even if you installed it if its a genuine volvo part. As for your problem, I feel like its more of an ETM issue

 

I am having a similar problem with my 2004 C70 2.3t. (119,000 miles) I bought it from an indie car dealer earlier this month and he put a new Throttle body and a universal CAT into it. The car ran great for about 48 hours and then it began to have the same issues that your S80 has exhibited. My son, a mechanic in training, replaced the MAF and plugs. Again it ran great for about 48 hours and then the problems started up again..I come to find out that the indie dealer never had the throttle programmed, so I took it to the dealer and the programmed it. This seemed to be perfect for about 48 hours again. The problems came back so I brought it back to the dealer and he said it was the Engine Control Module !! Yikes $1600. Now it has been another 48 hours and it is running pretty good but the check engine light is on.. I am hesitant about dropping this much cash into this car .

Any ideas? Also any opinions on a remanufactured or a used ECM ?

 

Turned out my problem was due to a faulty hose clamp (common on older Volvo's according to the mechanic) causing the large hose that clamps to the bottom side of the intake manifold to come off. Even after replacing the clamp and re-installing the hose, the throttle body needs to be re-programmed for the car to run properly. Mechanic said the symptoms I had can be caused by any of the turbo hoses being cracked, loose, or off. Apparently when any of the above happens and you make the repair, you still have to get the car re-programmed. One way to tell if, and or where a hose is loose or cracked, or off, is to put the car in reverse, hold the brake on hard, push on the accelerator, and have someone listening under the hood for a wooosh sound, indentifying the faulty hose. I'm not necessarily recommending this procedure.