New user here. I have a 99 S80 2.9 that has about 75K on it. In the past few months I've noticed that when I start it in the morning, or after it sits for a while, it takes a few seconds of turning over to crank. On Monday it didn't do it at all though. It also has a "clunking" in the front end. It mainly does it when I start from a dead stop. Someone told me that it could possible be the upper engine mount. I've already replaced the balljoints. What do you think?

 

The rough start could be any number of things, most of which are not major issues. Have you had the sofwtware update for the ETM? That update can affect anything from your idle to acceleration.

The clunking up front could be the engine mounts or control arm bushings for your suspension. I just had those replaced on my 2000 S80 by the dealership (about $400, most of which was labor), it may be a good idea to take your car in for a free look over and diagnostic. If you have a dealership you trust that would work, or an independent garage could take a look too.

 

Thanks for the prompt response. Should I even consider the fuel pump as the culprit for the starting issues? Do I just call the Volvo dealership and give them the VIN and they can tell me what recalls are still open?

Thanks

 

I've dealt with the same thing where my car will occasionaly have a rough start. I chalk it up as being normal, if your fuel pump was having major issue it wouldn't just be at startup. What grade of fuel do you run? There are a lot of differing opinions on this subject, but I run the highest octane available here in Texas (93). That may be worth a try if you get the chance!

As for calling about the recalls, yep if you provide the VIN then they should be able to tell you what's been done. There were several software updates I had done, the recall only accounted for the ETM upgrade so I paid for the rest. It was a cheap fix and my car runs like a dream now.

 

I just called the dealership and I found out that all recalls have been done on the car. They also told me that my ETM was replaced and that there is an extended warrenty untill 200,000 miles. I also called a shop that only works on Volvo and Porsches and they will hook it up to diagnostics and do a complete check of the entire car for $70 (new customer deal). He said when he gets done I will know exactly what the starting issue is and what is making the clunking in the front end......Or should I let the dealership do it?

I usually alternate on fuel. Premium on one fill up then mid grade the next. Should I ONLY use premium?

 

Alternating the fuellike that isn't an issue. I wouldn't worry about it. I think they should do the diagnostic for free but that's just me. With the software having been done already, and all recalls addressed I wouldhave either the independent garage or the dealership check the out the ETM again.

Regardless of whether the "clunk" is the engine mounts or bushings for the control arms (suspension) it's gonna cost a few bucks to repair. I would let the independent garaget diagnose your car and then get a quote for any work they recommend from the dealership. This will give you a ballpark for the cost of the repair and make sure they aren't charging more than they should. I personally only use my dealership as I have a good report with them and they don't charge me too much for the repairs that have come about.

One other thing you may want to have them look at is your transmission fluid. You aren't "due" for a flush but it would be good to have them take a look at the tranny oil and other fluids (ie. coolant, etc). This would more than likely be accomplished by the all inclusive diagnostic but it's a good idea to get that stuff checked out from time to time.

 

I would change the fuel filter anyway. It's cheap and easy to do it yourself. It locates under the car about directly under the rear right passenger seat. Just a couple of clips to remove and replace. If it solves your problem, you would save a bunch and feel proud you done it yourself.

As for noise, there could be a few things. However, there is one good suspect if they are not already in place. It's the rear subframe O-Rings. Yes, they are literally o-rings. About the 3.5 inches wide, and 0.75 inch thick. They go in additions to the rear subframe bushings. Look under the car starting at the driver side door, straight at the where the rear engine frame bolted to the car body. If you don't see such o-rings, GET them. Can be installed yourself also if you are the type. Search for subframe o-rings on this site and you'll see.

If that doesn't take care of the noise, then there could be control arm bushings, even strut bushings, strut bearings.

I had the noise issue and rough clunking front issue. Yes, I changed all those and things are normal now. Each one of those can contribute to the problem. But start with the O-Rings, they are must have add-ons.

Think about it this way. If your wheel and car move the same time, then there's no noise. But if the wheel move a fraction in time before the car move, then you have noise. The problems are in the connections between the wheel and the car.

As for the upper motor mount, that's easy to check. Lift up the hood and it's right in front of you. check for breakage in the rubber. If so, easy to replace. Cheap buying it online too. I got my at eEuroparts. Get a couple oil filters and removal tool.. or so and shipping is free. (no, i'm not in any way associated with them.) I just like lower price parts and free shipping.

Good luck!