Only message at dash: SRS Service Urgent (Been there for a while)
History: ABS Module Failure, resolves with battery disconnection and reconnection. I know, I know...get that fixed. But the car should at least crank.


Battery tested - PASSED
Started tested - PASSED
Starter circuit - PASSED
Starter relay tested - PASSED
Manually energized solenoid, AND held key in START position: Starter cranked, but no ignition


Conclusion: Perhaps the computer is detecting a NO START code somewhere.


HELP! I don't want to have to take this to a VOLVO dealer without having some idea of what it may be. I would need to have the car towed. If it's the ECM, then I may not want to replace it. I don't know what to do with the car. I feel totally blind because a OBD II doesn't give any codes, and I know there's proprietary computer equipment to scan the car's computers. Please recommend something I can do to test or try other things. Thank you!

 

Is there power to the signal wire at the starter when trying to crank?

 

I am assuming that you are asking about the signal wire to the solenoid of the starter. The answer is no. No power to that wire.

 

Yes, the green and red wire.

Is there power to pin 30 of the relay at all times? Is there power to pin 86 of the relay when trying to crank? Is there ground at pin 85 of the relay when trying to crank?

 

To the Starter Relay? I did try switching out the starter relay...putting in a new one to try it out. But I didn't check for power at those pins. I don't know which are pins 30, 86 and 85. I could check. Could you identify those for me in a diagram or description?


Thank you for your replies.

 

It should be printed on the relay. It might also use 3 for 30, 1 for 86 and 2 for 85. Also, check continuity between 87 (or 5) and the wire at the starter.

 

Well, We completely bypassed the relay and got the starter to crank the engine. But during the crank, there was no spark. Do I still need to check the voltages at the relay?

 

Yes, to make sure the ignition switch is supplying power to the relay and the CEM is grounding it.

 

At starter relay:
87 - Continuity PASS
85 - Ground when cranking PASS
30 - Power at all times PASS
86 - Power when ignition in start position FAIL

ALL FUSES have been checked - PASS

 

Can a failing throttle body cause a no crank? One off question. I know. But it's making a high pitch noise and click on and click off. I almost think the clicks are normal. But I gotta ask.

 

Can a failing ABS cause no crank? Gotta ask.

 

What is a funny back and forth clicking noise lasting 5 seconds here...(see attachment) cause no crank?

 

Sounds like a bad ignition switch. I gotta check the diagram though.

A throttle or ABS CM won't cause a no crank.

 

Is there a way to test the ignition switch?

 

Power should be present to 30 at the ignition switch (Red-Black) at all times and present at 50 (yellow-white) when in position 3

 

Power present at 30 at all times.
Power present at 50 in position III . What next?

Is there a place I can get wiring diagrams too?

 

Need to check continuity between 50 and 86

 

Fail in that one

 

Time to start tracing that wire. It goes to a black, 13 pin connector that connects the passenger compartment harness to the engine compartment harness. It's on the passenger side, under the dash. Not sure if you can get it from below or if you have to remove the cowl. I would disconnect that connector and then check for corrosion. Then, check continuity between 50 and the connector for the passenger compartment side of the harness (female) and also between the engine compartment side of the harness (male) and 86 at the relay. It also goes to the ECM, terminal B:23.

 

Ok let me clarify. From 50 to 86 continuity was a flicker. Like someone was jiggling wires all very very quickly. But nothing was moving. You know what I mean?