2001 S 80 - problem w/engine mounts
#1
#2
#3
If the mount which tears out is the rubber bushing about 2" diamter which goes inside the casting on top of the engine, the factory design is weak and prone to failure.
Had same problem. You can buy an aftermarket heavier duty bushing to replace this from aftermarket suppliers such as the one below. See "upper engine stabilizer mount" at the website below for about $30.
Remove the casting from the car and rip or cut out the center of the rubber bushing.
Then use a hack saw blade inside the hole where the bushing was to cut through one side of the thin shell which remains from the original bushing and peel it out so all you have left is the casting. Now assembly the new rubber bushing into the casting and put it back together.
No alignment required. Engine will support itself after you remove the cross bar and casting with the bushing in it providing your other bushings are good.
Make sure your car has the "round" style bushing before ordering. Please read instructions on website below.
http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-S80-1999...6-576-767-234/
Had same problem. You can buy an aftermarket heavier duty bushing to replace this from aftermarket suppliers such as the one below. See "upper engine stabilizer mount" at the website below for about $30.
Remove the casting from the car and rip or cut out the center of the rubber bushing.
Then use a hack saw blade inside the hole where the bushing was to cut through one side of the thin shell which remains from the original bushing and peel it out so all you have left is the casting. Now assembly the new rubber bushing into the casting and put it back together.
No alignment required. Engine will support itself after you remove the cross bar and casting with the bushing in it providing your other bushings are good.
Make sure your car has the "round" style bushing before ordering. Please read instructions on website below.
http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-S80-1999...6-576-767-234/
Last edited by dcm0123; 05-08-2010 at 09:41 PM.
#4
I also replaced my bushing. You do not have to remove the metal piece it is mounted in. Just remove the bolt through the bushing, then remove the cross bar. Take a close-quarter hacksaw (or just a hacksaw blade if you don't have one) and cut a slit in the outer sleeve of the bushing, it is made of plastic and cuts easily. You can then tap it out with a screwdriver or drift punch. Then tap in the new one. The notch in the bushing goes toward the back of the car, as I recall.
The bushings are sold all over the internet. I got mine at speedycarparts.com for $23.95 with free shipping. The part number is W0133-1631886. Just Google it and you will see a ton of sites that sell it.
You can also get heavier duty polyurethane bushings (from IPD or other places), but I have read that they transmit more vibration to the cabin.
The bushings are sold all over the internet. I got mine at speedycarparts.com for $23.95 with free shipping. The part number is W0133-1631886. Just Google it and you will see a ton of sites that sell it.
You can also get heavier duty polyurethane bushings (from IPD or other places), but I have read that they transmit more vibration to the cabin.
#6
I also replaced my bushing. You do not have to remove the metal piece it is mounted in. Just remove the bolt through the bushing, then remove the cross bar. Take a close-quarter hacksaw (or just a hacksaw blade if you don't have one) and cut a slit in the outer sleeve of the bushing, it is made of plastic and cuts easily. You can then tap it out with a screwdriver or drift punch. Then tap in the new one. The notch in the bushing goes toward the back of the car, as I recall.
The bushings are sold all over the internet. I got mine at speedycarparts.com for $23.95 with free shipping. The part number is W0133-1631886. Just Google it and you will see a ton of sites that sell it.
You can also get heavier duty polyurethane bushings (from IPD or other places), but I have read that they transmit more vibration to the cabin.
The bushings are sold all over the internet. I got mine at speedycarparts.com for $23.95 with free shipping. The part number is W0133-1631886. Just Google it and you will see a ton of sites that sell it.
You can also get heavier duty polyurethane bushings (from IPD or other places), but I have read that they transmit more vibration to the cabin.
2-piece unit or single piece unit (needto be pressed in).
Thanks
#7
I assume the T6 bushing is identical. I used the one piece (original style) bushing because I didn't want any vibration issues.
It does not have to be pressed in. Mine tapped in easily with a hammer and punch. Just don't hit it too hard because the outer sleeve is made of plastic. Also spray it with WD40 before you tap it in.
It does not have to be pressed in. Mine tapped in easily with a hammer and punch. Just don't hit it too hard because the outer sleeve is made of plastic. Also spray it with WD40 before you tap it in.
#8
Mine was a 2000 T6 S80. I used the "solid" 2 piece. There is a slight bit more vibration with this aftermarket Polyurethane part. There are "slotted" 2 piece poyurethane mounts which should produce less vibration. I am fairly confident it will not have to be replaced again. The factory replacement lasted less than 2 years.
If the lower front mount/link which goes between the engine and the bottom of the radiator support starts to go, this upper rear mount will see more of a load and live a shorter life.
If the lower front mount/link which goes between the engine and the bottom of the radiator support starts to go, this upper rear mount will see more of a load and live a shorter life.
#9
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