Disclaimer: Changing a timing belt on your own is a rewarding experience; however, it should not be haphazardly performed. The following information is provided as a reference only to my experience on my timing belt change for my 2000 S80 automatic transmission. Use is at your discretion with no liability herein.

Assumptions:

1. You have performed intermediate vehicle maintenance, understand, and can apply with regard to:
a. Torque values
b. Timing principals, top dead center (TDC), timing marks
c. Proper jack points and mandatory use of jack stands
d. Taking your time and double checking your work
2. Your toolset includes all needed pieces to perform this effort accurately and with personal safety in mind. At minimum, I used the following:
a. VADIS documentation for appropriate torque values, belt routing (both timing and auxiliary), and tensioning
b. Jack and two jack stands to lift entire passenger side
c. 1/4" drive for T30 driver (timing belt cover)
d. 3/8” sockets: 10MM, 12MM and 12MM deepwell, 13MM (wheel well plate, roller/tensioner, crank pulley vibration dampener)
e. 1/2” sockets: 13MM, 19MM lug remover with nylon case, 30MM (crank pulley vibration dampener, crank nut)
f. 1/2” breaker bar
g. 10MM, 13MM, 15MM wrenches
h. 6MM hex key, t-handles will not function here
i. Airguns: 3/8” wrench and gun with impact sockets (crank pulley vibration dampener), 1/2” gun (19MM lug and 30MM crank nut removal)
j. Torque wrench, 3/8” drive (with NM reference points)
k. Pulley puller (do not use a claw type as you bend the edges of the pulley)
l. Anti-seize grease
m. Flat blade screwdriver, long
n. Small mirror
3. You will be replacing the timing belt, belt roller, and belt tensioner (highly recommended to do all three)
4. You will be in an appropriate state of mind to safely perform this maintenance activity with sound judgment free from impairment

Instruction set:

1. Locate vehicle in appropriate location, set emergency brake, and remove key from ignition
2. Jack and place jack stands on appropriate lift points
3. Ensure vehicle stability
4. Remove passenger tire (19MM)
5. Remove wheel well plate (2x10MM)
6. Remove crank vibration dampener plate (4x13MM) while counter-holding the 30MM crank nut with breaker bar
7. Remove accessory belt taking note of appropriate routing (15MM wrench on accessory belt tensioner in clockwise rotation) by sketching a routing diagram
8. Remove upper belt cover (2xT30)
9. Remove belt front cover (1x10MM)
10. Replace upper belt cover to obtain visual reference to timing marks on inside lip (no bolt replacement needed)
11. Set TDC by using crank nut (30MM) to rotate clockwise. The timing marks are slightly made on the upper pulleys. Mark the driver’s side of the upper pulleys with reference marks to both the pulley and the cam cover for a significant visual reference.
12. Remove upper belt cover
13. Remove crank nut (1x30MM)
14. Use puller to remove crank accessory pulley
15. Check TDC again, if moved, replace the 30MM crank nut, set, and remove.
16. Lift coolant reservoir off mounts (power steering reservoir joined) to provide room (you will get about 1-2” of travel here)
17. Remove top of ECU by removing vent hose, felt cover, and plastic top
18. Remove timing belt roller (12MM deepwell)
19. Remove timing belt, upper pulleys first (CVVT first) with removal from bay through the wheel well as to not disturb CVVT pulley
20. Remove timing belt tensioner (12MM) and ensure that the unit is centered to the block standout
21. Use this opportunity to clean any road dirt or grime from timing belt area – do not use anything that will be corrosive to the belts or plastics on rollers or covers. No dirt/grease/oil on ANY belt pulley surface should remain.
22. Replace the timing belt idler roller, lightly anti-seize the threads and hand tighten, torque to 24NM (1x12MM)
23. Replace the timing belt tensioner, lightly anti-seizer the threads and hand tighten only, ensure 6MM key is at the 10 o’clock position
24. Replace the timing belt in the prescribed order: crank, roller, CVVT pulley, exhaust pulley, water pump, tensioner. Ensure that the belt has tension and that your timing marks haven’t moved. Once the belt is placed on the upper pulleys ensure that little slack is present between the upper pulleys (as in there should be none) and continue on. The challenge is to get the belt on the tensioner. It was found useful to approach this from under the vehicle by leverage a long, flat blade screwdriver, to depress the tensioner gauge to allow the belt to sit on the tensioner. Take careful note of the orientation as to not cause any slippage damage to any surface of the belt or tensioner roller surface, or any surrounding area (proceed carefully). Ensure that no belt slippage is possible and that the belt is properly seated in all locations.
25. Set tension on the belt tensioner using prescribed operating temperature methods in VADIS. 6MM hex key and 12MM to holding torque but not final torque. Leverage mirror to check tensioner gauge
26. Replace the accessory pulley and crank nut
27. Hand rotate the crank (30MM) in a clockwise fashion to complete two rotations of the crank
28. Recheck belt tensioner gauge and adjust if needed, set final torque with 6MM key counter holding and 12MM setting to 25NM
29. Rotate crank until upper pulley timing marks are set, there should be no deviation here post crank rotation
30. Replace accessory belt in prescribed routing (15MM wrench)
31. Replace vibration dampener and bolts with 1/2” breaker bar and 30MM counter holding (4x13MM), set torque to 35NM + a 50 degree angle tighten
32. For a pre-ignition check, double check all your effort thus far and ensure no tools are in the engine bay, all bolts are replaced and set to torque, and belts are on track and are clear from any obstacles
33. Start the engine and idle for 20 seconds
34. Shut off engine and remove key from ignition
35. Replace belt covers (front first 1x10MM) then upper (2xT30)
36. Fit the coolant reservoir (and power steering reservoir) back into mounts
37. Replace the ECU plastic and felt covers
38. Replace tire, lower vehicle from stands, torque tire lug bolts to specification
39. Start vehicle and listen for any anomalies, belt rubs, etc.
40. Clean tools, work location, and possibly self, then enjoy your accomplishment!

 

Very good write up THANKS!!!

 

Thanks a million, great write-up!
Tony

 

Hi, is there any way we can put a sticky on this so that it stays at the top of the forum for anyone who logs on?
Its not going to help if its mixed up among everything else..

 

Nice instructions, thanks, but the step on tensioning was glossed over. Could anyone elaborate on step 25:
"Set tension on the belt tensioner using prescribed operating temperature methods in VADIS."
I'll be taking on this job next week and I don't have VADIS readilly available. I have searched the forum for about the last hour looking for specifics on the step with no success...
Thanks,
Walter

 

Best it if you are doing it with the motor cold the pointer goes into the middle if the window(Between the 2 tabs)

 

Walter:

"Tensioning the timing belt
This adjustment is carried out on a cold engine. A suitable temperature is approximately 20 ° C / 68 ° F.
At higher temperatures (with the engine at operating temperature or a high outside temperature for example) the indicator is further to the right.
The illustration shows the position of the indicator when aligning the timing belt tensioner at different temperatures.
Carefully turn the crankshaft clockwise until the timing belt is tensioned. The belt must be in tension between the intake camshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the crankshaft.
Hold the belt tensioner centre screw secure. Turn the belt tensioner eccentric clockwise until the tensioner indicator passes the marked position.
Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the centre of the window.
Hold the eccentric secure. Tighten the centre screw to 25 Nm.
Check that the indicator is in the correct position."

 

Thanks guys!
Tearing into it today...

 

After reading several posts and one failed attempt, I've successfully change my belt. On my first attempt, I had to stop work because I was unable to remove the crankshaft bolt. What a bummer!!
Soooo... I tried the starter trick method to remove this bolt. It was so easy.. Just have a long enough bar on the lug, brace it, the turn the starter on for only a second or two. It was done.
The next stumbling block was putting the new belt back on. Compared to the old belt, the new belt was stiff. It was close to impossible to put it on. I resorted to removing the tensioner and putting it back on with the belt on it. Other than that, the rest of the procedures are as simple as reading the other posts out there in regards to this replacement.

 

Thanks! It's very useful!

 

Always good to receive the feedback that the procedure works! Thanks!

 

Where can I get replacement bolts? These are the four 13mm bolts. I'm thinking that a trip to HomeDepot to get some wouldn't be advised. Any online volvo suppliers that can accomodate?

 

I would like input on what to replace when doing a t-belt. My thought on options based on other cars I have worked on over the years and VADIS information on what is in the area:
1. T-belt
2. Tensioner pulley
3. Idler (2?)
4. dampner element
5. serpentine belt
6. thermostat & gasket
7. water pump
8. serpentine belt idler
9. serpentine belt tensioner
10. cam seals
11. crank seals

I am thinking 7-11 and 4 are not necessary unless problems are apparent.
Thanks

 

Im gonna being undergoing this for the first time, ahhahah a little nervous to do it. is there any more of a guide to doing this? Like I found a brakes and rotors one with really great pictures... Same with the spark plugs... is there one for the timin belt?

 

To be honest, I didn't see one anywhere and took a stab at just documenting what I did...

 

I just completed replacing the belts, tensioners, idler pulley, and water pump on my wife's 2004 S80. This thread was very helpful, and as I went through the process, I came up with a few more details to add, along with a few pictures. The pictures are also located in the S80 Repair Pictures album.

Here they are, numbered to correspond to 75ohm's sequence:

Assumptions 1c and 1e:

• 30 mm short 6 point impact socket
• T-60? Torx head socket (see below)

Instruction Set:
2. I ran the front of the car up on ramps before setting the parking brake and jacking the passenger side up via the lift point behind the front wheel and then I placed a stand under the bar farther back on the car which is normally used for the emergency jack. I really wish auto makers would make obvious the places to put both the jack and the jack stand. The ramps gave me just a little more clearance without having to jack up both sides of the car.
6. You may wish to rotate the engine to make it easier to remove the four bolts on the vibration dampener. If you do so, remember to rotate clockwise, as if tightening the engine around with a ratchet.
7. Here is a link to a diagram for the accessory belt at eeuroparts.com.
11. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys are just little lines engraved in between the teeth of the sprocket. They need to line up with the notches on the underside of the upper timing belt cover. The timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is a rib cast into the mounting plate for the accessory belt pulley. I would take the accessory belt pulley off the crank before trying to line up the timing marks. The following pictures of the timing marks for both upper and lower pulleys show why:

• Rear camshaft pulley, with the blue line under the mark, note the notch under the upper cover.
  
  
  
• Front camshaft pulley with the blue line under the mark, again note the notch in the upper cover.
  
  
• A photo of the outer surface of the crankshaft pulley. The blue box has the timing mark in the middle and the green box indicates the key-way for alignment.
  
  
  
  
• A better view of the crankshaft pulley, unfortunately the timing mark that would be most useful is on the face of the pulley you cannot see. Two blue lines to show the two marks for timing.
  
  
  
  The timing tab on the outside rim was not obvious when I looked for it at the beginning of the process as it was tucked in under the rim of the accessory belt pulley. It may have been visible after I removed the accessory belt pulley from the crank, but I did not think to look, or I would have taken a picture. I did not see it until after I had taken both pulleys off the car.
  
• Here are the bearing carrier and crankshaft as viewed from the wheel well. Green and blue as before. The timing mark (the little protrusion at the rib corner) is barely visible when viewed from above in the engine compartment, but it is visible.
  

Since I could not see the timing marks on the crank, I used a sharpie marker and marked the pulley itself with a sharpie under the mark on the bearing carrier. I also used a sharpie to mark the alignment of the pulley on the crank. Some of the marks are visible in the photos. Had I known then what I know now, I wouldn't have needed to use the sharpie.
13. After spending too much time locating a 30 mm socket, I was very annoyed when the crank not did not budge with my impact wrench. Then my compressor died when I upped the pressure... then... I took a break. When I came back, I made a tool to hold the crank so I could remove the nut the old fashioned way with a breaker bar. The tool is made of 1/4" aluminum bolted to 1 x 2 aluminum tubing, since that was what I had at hand. Volvo makes a tool with a nice steel ring which bolts into all four holes and has a handle coming off of it. The Haynes manual says to make a Y-shaped holder out of two pieces of steel to bolt into holes on opposite sides of the crank pulley, and that would work too. Here are some pictures of my solution,
[Picture1]


[Picture 2]

crude but effective. I used the holes and the shape of the opening the the vibration dampener as a template to locate the holes, and cut the opening for the socket.
14. I used a regular two-jaw gear puller, which worked fine. I also found out that I could not get the water pump maneuvered out of the engine compartment without pulling the crankshaft timing gear as well. The shaft and the pulley have matching keyed parts, so it is not any bigger deal than pulling the accessory pulley. I used a rubber mallet to seat it back on the crank during re-assembly.
16. If I do this again in 5 or so years, I will just remove the coolant and power steering reservoirs to get them out of the way. It seemed I was always shifting them here or there to see something or make room for a wrench. The coolant was already drained for takeing out the water pump, so the coolant tank would be no big deal. It would also be a good excuse to change out some of the power steering fluid.
17. I had no need to remove the ECU cover, though it might have provided more room...
21. Now is the time to replace the water pump, In my Land Rover ownership days, I discovered the joy of hylomar gasket compound. I recommend it highly for dressing the water pump gasket before reassembly. Yes, you could use nothing at all or silicone sealant instead of spending $10 on a tube hylomar, but when it comes time to disassemble and clean the surfaces for the next water pump, you'll thank me.
24. I found it easier to put the timing belt on the rear camshaft last. Here is my reasoning: The crank, idler and front cam were first since the crank required some fiddling to get the belt on flat, and the crank-to-front-cam belt length had to be exactly right. This worked well because I could check the marks on the crank and front cam easily and keep tension upwards to hold the belt in position. I tried to do the rear cam next, but found it very difficult to get the belt positioned correctly on the water pump and tensioner while working in the very cramped spot between the wheel well and the center of the engine. So I backed up and did the water pump and tensioner instead, which allowed me to check the timing marks on the pulleys again before I slipped the belt on the readily-accessible rear cam. Here is a link to a timing belt diagram on eeuroparts.
27. Again, clockwise means 'tighten' the engine around.
30. I would use the T-60. Here is that same link to an accessory belt routing diagram at eeuroparts, click on 'see larger picture' and print it out. Note the torx hole in the tensioner.

I did buy the Haynes manual for the European editions of the S80. Even though it does not have the 2.9 Liter I-6 engine, its instructions for the 5-cylinder petrol engine were very close to what I needed. I also need to thank the folks at IPD for prompt service in delivering my parts, and patience in answering the questions of a sometimes frustrated DIY'er. They were very helpful, unlike the 'Just bring it in, you cant possibly do it yourself.' nearest dealer.

 

Thanks for sharing!

 

Great job and build to the original procedure!

 

hello, im new here and new to this i have a 2001 s80 turbo and I am replacing the timing belt , i am confused about the timing marks i cant figure out if the marks on the sprockets are the white marks or the thin marks, help pls.

 

hey quick question is that a 2.8 turbo ive got a 2001 and these pics look alot like my engine, the pics are good thanks