Thanks for the info, but lining up the basic timing marks is a piece of cake. My car has variable valve timing on the intake side and I think the intake cam and cam pulley may no longer be in sync. I'm looking for a way to be sure the cam itself is lined up properly.

 

Did you loosen up the pulleys on the 2 cams to remove or turn them?

If not, what makes you think the cams were turned with referance to the cam pulleys?

If you did, you will need a special tool kit to re-align the cams. Last I saw it was about $300 on E-Bay. It engages the slots on the far end of the cams and has a special tool used to rotate the cranck shaft to the proper location.

This is the only way I know of solving this problem.

 

I ended up removing the intake cam position sensor trigger so I could see the slot on the driver's side end of the intake cam. I turned the intake cam so that the slot was parallel with the mating line between the cam cover and the head. I then gently turned the intake cam pulley counterclockwise until I felt it hit a stopping point. At this point, I had the intake cam lined up with the head, both cam pulleys lined up with the timing marks on the upper timing belt cover, and the crank lined up with its timing mark. I then put the timing belt on and turned it over by hand a few times with the plugs out just to be sure. I then put everything else back together and it ran great. Drove it about 200 miles yesterday.

One other note: As I metioned before the Tru-Flow (Gates) water pump from NAPA that I ordered had the wrong pulley diameter (strike one). When putting the accessory belt on, I noticed that my new Gates accessory tensioner pulley had bottomed against the tensioner arm. I removed the pulley and found that the inner race was 4mm narrower than the race on the original pulley. This moved the pulley 2mm closer to the arm and it touched - had to use original for now (strike two). I've had good luck with Gates on domestic vehicles, but they need to do their homework with regards to Volvo. Looks like I will be ordering pretty much all of my parts online - sorry local guys.

 

Was Wondering how you put the crank pulley back on . I tryed an electric impact but it seems to be forcing the pulley at a certan point. I need About 1/2 inch more so it alligns with the ac and alternator .Stuck at work with no car :'(

 

As far as I know, the pulleys should just drive in. I used an air impact wrench and had no difficulties. You may want to try lightly sanding the shaft with a piece of emery cloth to make sure that there are no burrs which are catching when you try and mount it. Also, be sure the pulley holes and the shaft are very clean.

I added three pictures taken from the top of the belts to the album that I took before I removed the belts. Volvo Forums - Volvo Enthusiasts Forum - one norse's Album: S80 Repair picturesThey should give you an idea of what it's supposed to look like installed.

Here's the best of the three:

https://volvoforums.com/forum/member...-pulleys-4588/
Good luck!

 

Hi guys,

Doing an '03 XC-90 T6 here.

So the crankshaft timing is is definitely nib on the sprocket to nib on the carrier?

Thanks!

-Ryan
1990 Volvo 245
1990 Volvo 744 16-valve
1991 Volvo 745

 

I'm puzzled at something, when all marks are lined up piston 4 which is 6 in firing order is at tdc, #1,which is #1 firing order is on the down stroke, about 1/4-1/2 inch down. is this correct? I swear this s80 I have is possesed or something.

 

#4 might be at the top of it's exhaust stroke.

Be sure you're using the right mark on the crankshaft. There are a couple candidates.

One trick I learned by accident on the XC-90 T-6, was to paint the timing marks on the old belt before slipping it off the engine. This proved to be real handy, since you can't get a good line of sight on the exhaust cam timing mark when reassembling. The marked up old belt provides a "ruler" to line up the exhaust cam based on the intake cam timing mark (much easier to see). I actually hacked out the length of the old belt with the cam marks painted on.

-Ryan

 

You are correct. The timing marks are just marks, they do not designate #1 being at TDC like every other car on the planet.

I'm in the middle of this myself at the moment and that one nearly threw me for a loop. Evidently, as long as the timing marks on cams and crank are aligned where they are supposed to be, it should be good to go...we'll see for sure tomorrow.

 

I'm using the "v" notch on the crank to line up to the crankcase mark. I'm at a loss here, still wont start. So your saying the #1 piston is in the correct position with the marks lined up? even if its below plug by 1/2".

 

I'm not sure what "v" notch you're referring to but if you go back to page 2 of this thread there are pics of the timing marks. A rib on the crank seal housing on the block and a raised rib on the crank pulley.

I haven't tried to start mine yet as the belt I got was the wrong size but I can tell you that when I took off the original belt with all the timing marks aligned, the #1 piston was way below TDC.

 

The one on the teeth, in 2nd pic you can see how its grooved into the side, but from the top it makes a "v" notch looking thing, but it does line up with the nib on the outer crank.

 

Did you complete the change?

 

Yes I did and all is well due in large part to your great write-up, thanks.

 

Outstanding! Glad it helped!

 

I wanted to thank all who were involved in this post. I am an experienced diesel mechanic but the Volvo was uncharted water for me. Bare with me as my communication skills are not great but maybe I can help someone in return for the info that helped me.

The job was pretty straight forward after reading all the posts and just some minor struggles with tight spaces. I have very large hands.

I got to the point where I was installing the now, stiff cold belt. I did the exact routine as decribed earlier. I struggled for more than an hour trying to get the belt on the last accessory. I tried the water pump last but no luck. I tried the tensioner last and no luck there either. Finally I came up with an idea that worked real well. I think anyone who tries it will like it. Here's what I did.

1) place the marks of the cams and crank in the appropriate position.

2) put the belt around the crank first. If you slide a phillips screwdriver through the bolt hole in the crank hub it will hold the belt in the crank sprocket.

3) route the belt over the idler pulley and over both cams as yoou would normally. The belt should be relatively tight from the crank to the cam and also tight between the cams.

4) here's where I might struglle with my communication but here goes. Even if you have to buy 2 cheap needle nose vise grips do so. Cut some fuel line and place it over the needle nose ends of both vice grips to protect the new belt. Use the grips to clamp the belt to both cam pulleys. Don't need very much pressure at all. Just a little pinch. Now with all the components in sync and secure pull the belt OFF the idler pulley. That will give you a little slack.

5) turn the engine crank clockwise just enough to move the slack over to the water pump and tensioner side of the engine. Only turn the engine enough to pull the slack you created by taking the belt off the idler pulley. This little bit extra slack will make putting the belt on the water pump and tensioner a piece of cake.

6) after the belt is on the tesioner and water pump turn the engine conterclockwise just enough to put the slack back to the idler pulley side of the engine.

7) because of the long staright run of the belt you will find that putting the belt back on the idler pulley is much (much) easier that trying to put it on the water pump and tensioner.

8) Double check your cam and crank timing but nothing should have moved. (how could it?)

9) remove the vice grips from the cam sprockets and the screwdriver from the crank hub and tension the belt. Easy as pie. Took maybe 5 minutes.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Appreciate you sharing your observations on this for others to consider!

 

Curious as to if we could get this thread "stickied"?

 

http://s47.photobucket.com/user/duxd...%20S60%20stuff <<< a few pix ]
Great write-up... I just finished doing my 2001 S60 2.4T timing belt & components following 'most' of what was mentioned by all in the thread [2nd. owner since 2005; at 90k miles but 12 years on the car; belt had NO cracking evident, but slight play in the idler pulley]. I added a few extra 'white dot' markers on the backs of the cam gears & on the crank gear [ a few teeth to the center when all aligned, so I could see it easier than the 'nub' aligning w/casting marker for all the engine rotations I went thru ]; I used a steel straight edge marked w/Sharpie before removing the belt to give me reference measurements between cam pulley hash marks, as well as from each mark to a fixed point [casting above PS pulley & bolt on firewall]; also I did not remove the crank pulley for access, but instead just took off the small plastic cover to the right & carefully got the belt out/in around the pulley [saved all the problems others had in this regard]; took a leisurely 3 hrs. to perform after jacking the car up & doing all the checking/marking/rotating I mentioned prior to removing the belt.

Only question is the 'cold' setting of the tensioner pulley; 70 degrees in the garage, cold engine, etc. & I cannot get the tab to position itself in center of opening; slightly to the right but not completely out of the 'window' opening. I have the allen positioned at 7 o'clock approx., same as the one I took off. Any problems having it at this position & calling it done?

BTW, I was going to replace only the acessory belt tensioner pulley [it had some bearing play, but tension spring felt really strong], so bought a Gates 'equal' 36313.... turns out it has a bearing that is 2-3mm narrower than the OEM unit I took off, thus sits right against the arm & the bolt cannot tighten down enough to hold it in the correct position [anyone else have such a problem?]; went out & got a complete tensioner assembly instead.