I have a 2000 S80 Twin Turbo T6 2.8L that was throwing engine codes P0013 and P1332. The P0013 was being thrown intermittently, but the P1332 was constant. There were no driveability issues, but the car needed the Check Engine Light cleared to pass inspection.

From reading several other threads, it looked like it could be the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) or the Camshaft Reset Valve - also known as the CVVT Solenoid.

In my case, it turned out to be the Camshaft Reset Valve (aka CVVT Solenoid).

The Camshaft Reset Valve was actually quite easy and quick to replace (well less than 45 minutes). It is located under the Timing Belt cover.

To gain access, you have to move the black plastic turbo pipes a bit out of the way. This requires removing the two turbo pipe screws closest to the radiator,and one turbo pipe screw mounted at the center of the turbo piping (it screws into a long metal clip on top of the piping).

Then remove the hard rubber hose that connects to the turbo pipe closest to the windshield washer reservoir. The rubber tubing is fastened to the turbo pipe by a standard screw-type hose clamp. Pop off that rubber hose with a bit of effort. I would not try to pry it off, because you might break the plastic turbo pipe. Just use your hands and be 'persuasive'.

(If you have a non-turbo 2.9L, then the above two paragraphs don't apply.)

There is no need to remove the long black plastic cover that covers the engine horizontally. You only have to remove the two Torx fasteners and two spring clips on the actual Timing Belt cover. Since the turbo piping is now loose, you can move it a bit out of the way to gain access to the two Torx fasteners, then pop the spring clips and remove the Timing Belt cover.

The Camshaft Reset Valve is at the top left under the Timing Belt cover. It is held in place by 4 bolts and has an electrical connector that also needs to be removed.

I tried using carb cleaner to fix the Cam Reset Valve, but without luck. I purchased a new one at our local Volvo dealer for a little over $100 and it worked fine.

The new 'improved' unit looks slightly different and requires cutting off the old connector on the engine harness and splicing in the new unit. It is easier than it sounds.

I got a loaner OBDII reader from AutoZone for a $150 credit card or cash deposit, which you get back when you return it. You can borrow it for 30 days. Not all AZs do this, but many do.

I cleared the code after the swap and it hasn't come back in over 1000 miles. After clearing the codes and before you can pass inspection, the OBDII has to get four 'pending' operations completed: Evap System, 2 oxygen sensor readings, and one more I forget (cat converter?). This will complete within about 50 miles and a few engine On/Off cycles.

Thanks to spunkymonky and JTapper for their help in my earlier post about this.