I have a 2003 S60 with 101k miles. Just had timing belt and water pump replaced at an Indie shop. They say the control arm bushings need to be replaced and quoted $637. (They did not specify but I will get clarification...are there 4 total on front, 2 upper , 2 lower)? Also said front stabilizer links need to be replaced, quoted $212. Are these typical for 101k miles and do these costs sound reasonable. I'm evaluating if I want this to be my "go to" shop in future. Thanks a bunch for your insights!

 

There are two per arm, but if you are paying to have them done, it is usually cheaper to replace the whole arm because the labor is less. That price sounds like it is for the whole arm, so they are doing the honest thing even if it makes them less money.

Sway bar link price sounds right too if they are using Volvo parts.

 

From experience, I have replaced my control arms twice in three years. When braking on my S80 during the last replacement it was pulling to the right under brake load. They replaced the brake lines, caliper and then the tech said....Has to be the control arms. Sure enough it was. And the bushings from his inspection didn't look that bad. After the replacement it was great, no more pull to one side.

Had to replace the arms each time because the bushings as stated come pre packed on the arms..... I went with Volvo OEM on this last replacement and not some down the road parts store arms. We think my car was in a front end accident before we bought it used. We keep having to replace front end parts on this car all the time. Bushings are our worst nightmare, they don't last long for us.....
Good luck.

 

My veering problem basically went away using Volvo control arms. However, even these are not that great, mostly due to poor design, followed by poor material for the rubber in the bushings. Still, they beat aftermarket parts as best as I can tell.

 

A little known fact (I even had to educate a Volvo mechanic with) is that the control arms MUST be installed under load. Otherwise, premature failure is inevitable. The reason being, if tightened when suspended without load, the rubber will be twisted when the car is lowered and under its natural load, leading to premature wear (guaranteed), regardless of the quality of control arm ball joints you use.

Easy to do, just place tall support post under wheel then carefully lower car to riding height. (in my car the full load was the same as the riding height)

1) measure center of wheel to edge of fender when on the ground.
2)when on the hoist, load to this same distance as when on the ground. Then tighten all control arm nuts to proper torque and that's all there is to it.

...easy as that

Volvo and Audi require control arms to be installed under load... or, they will simply fail in a by far, by far, shorter time. By far. The difference is lasting for 20K miles or 250K+ miles.

On another note, nothing beats Volvo original parts, Lemfords are excellent too, but for the fraction of the price you can get better with the Heavy Duty Meyle Control arms. I trust their control arms with incredible reviews on other forums as well. Mind you, I trust ONLY their control arms as their other parts I suspect are no where near up to par with Volvo quality. Like brakes for example. From my years of experience, always use original Volvo parts to avoid warpage, squeal etc., as I found no other manufacturer coming even close. With Meyle I found their heavy duty control arms are actually better for less! Like 56 bucks vs 176 bucks with the blue heavy duty seals, awesome product.

Hope this post helps.

Cheers!