Control Arm Bushing Questions- Calling Tech!
#1
06-30-2010, 10:13 AM
Control Arm Bushing Questions- Calling Tech!
Hi,
About 2 yr ago I replaced all of the lower control arm bushings with OEM (2004 s80), and it looks like the rubber is already cracking again on the front bushings.
I installed the new front bushings in the same orientation as the bushings I replaced; ie- with the flats of the bushing's shaft oriented so that the bolts could be installed with the strut in its unloaded and fully extended position (as opposed to the control arm's normal loaded and drooped position).
Installed this way, the bushing is constantly twisted once the strut is compressed to normal ride height.
At the time, I was a little uncomfortable with the bushing being constantly twisted, but that was the orientation of the old (original?) bushings and I thought it would be very difficult to reinstall the control arm with the bushings lined up with the normal ride height position of the control arm, because the bolt holes on the bushing shaft would be out of line with those on the car unless it was installed without the strut and spring in place.
Is this the proper way to install the bushings?
If I have to get in there again, I'll probably get powerflex urethane bushings (had good success with them on BMW). I have not seen a picture of the specific powerflex part; is it a simple chunk of urethane with no metallic sleeve?
If it is an easier fit into the control arm than the regular steel sleeved rubber bushings, I might be able to R&R just the small bushings with the control arm in place?
Thanks in advance,
Walter
About 2 yr ago I replaced all of the lower control arm bushings with OEM (2004 s80), and it looks like the rubber is already cracking again on the front bushings.
I installed the new front bushings in the same orientation as the bushings I replaced; ie- with the flats of the bushing's shaft oriented so that the bolts could be installed with the strut in its unloaded and fully extended position (as opposed to the control arm's normal loaded and drooped position).
Installed this way, the bushing is constantly twisted once the strut is compressed to normal ride height.
At the time, I was a little uncomfortable with the bushing being constantly twisted, but that was the orientation of the old (original?) bushings and I thought it would be very difficult to reinstall the control arm with the bushings lined up with the normal ride height position of the control arm, because the bolt holes on the bushing shaft would be out of line with those on the car unless it was installed without the strut and spring in place.
Is this the proper way to install the bushings?
If I have to get in there again, I'll probably get powerflex urethane bushings (had good success with them on BMW). I have not seen a picture of the specific powerflex part; is it a simple chunk of urethane with no metallic sleeve?
If it is an easier fit into the control arm than the regular steel sleeved rubber bushings, I might be able to R&R just the small bushings with the control arm in place?
Thanks in advance,
Walter
Last edited by wamcneil; 06-30-2010 at 11:40 AM.
#2
08-12-2010, 10:40 AM
No input?
Oh well, never mind. I'm just getting the urethane bushings so twisting of the rubber won't be a factor anymore.
Badly worn tires have prompted a close look at the bushings. The front bushings do have a little cracking, but the 1 1/2 yr old rear bushings are thrashed, so it's coming apart as soon as the parts come in. My recollection was that all of the bushings I replaced were OEM, but now I'm not sure on the rears.
Does anybody know a good source for powerflex bushings besides powerflexusa.com? They only have one in stock and are saying 2-4 weeks backorder for the 2nd.
Oh well, never mind. I'm just getting the urethane bushings so twisting of the rubber won't be a factor anymore.
Badly worn tires have prompted a close look at the bushings. The front bushings do have a little cracking, but the 1 1/2 yr old rear bushings are thrashed, so it's coming apart as soon as the parts come in. My recollection was that all of the bushings I replaced were OEM, but now I'm not sure on the rears.
Does anybody know a good source for powerflex bushings besides powerflexusa.com? They only have one in stock and are saying 2-4 weeks backorder for the 2nd.
#3
08-13-2010, 01:34 PM
#4
08-13-2010, 02:47 PM
I've had good success with them on BMW, but this will be my first Volvo experience with powerflex. Tech has recommended them in other threads.
I just now realized that the powerflex bushings are supplied in PAIRS; so you only need to order ONE set per car. It does say this on the website, but it's easy to miss if you're drinking and ordering parts...
I just now realized that the powerflex bushings are supplied in PAIRS; so you only need to order ONE set per car. It does say this on the website, but it's easy to miss if you're drinking and ordering parts...
#6
08-15-2010, 03:36 PM
I just got the parts Friday. Still waiting for ball joints, so have not installed yet.
The "instructions" printed inside the box top are as about as vague as possible...
Tech, in another thread you made mention of leaving the bushing's outer metal shell in the control arm. Is that right? So it's not that difficult to separate the rubber from the sleeve?
The "instructions" printed inside the box top are as about as vague as possible...
Tech, in another thread you made mention of leaving the bushing's outer metal shell in the control arm. Is that right? So it's not that difficult to separate the rubber from the sleeve?
When you look at the OEM bushings they have the metal sleeve that is pressed into the control arm. You will be leaving the metal sleeve in the control arm. I secure the arm in a bench vise. Then take a big pipe wrench or adjustable wrench and turn the center part that the bolts screw into. That will break the bushing(center portion) the rest of the way out.Keep turning it till you can tap it out of the sleeve. Then if you look in there you will see there is still a section in there. If you look closely there will be like 2 squares in there that are holes in what is left. That is the part you will need to get out. Now carefully take a chisel and go just inside the sleeve and start tapping. What you want to do is kind of fold it in on top of one of the holes. This way once you have some folded over you can use a long screw driver to pull the insert out of the sleeve. Once that is done spray some silicone in the metal sleeve and work the power flex bushing into the metal sleeve. Tap the bushing in till it is flush. Then if the bushings did not come with the metal inserts you will need to grind the rubber off the old one. Once that is done use the supplied anti seize looking stuff and put a decent layer inside the bushing. If they did not supply any regular anti seize will work fine. That is to stop then from creeking when driving. Then press the center sections into the bushing and you will be done.
#8
01-05-2011, 11:39 PM
they only have the front at powerflex, not the rears.
So when installing the powerflex sleeve, do you insert the center metal pin before or after you insert the powerflex sleeve into the metal sleeve on the control arm?
I just completed one side of my car and I installed the sleeve first and even without the pin already in place, I had to twist it on to get started and use a rubber mallet to knock it in, so I would think if the pin was already in then it would even be harder. Once this was in and I tried to insert the pin in, it did not want to go and I had to really hit it with the rubber mallet and even knocked a small chunk of the poly out of the sleeve when it finally made its way in. Hopefully it is OK...... :P
As for getting the rear bushing out and in, I was able to use a piece of pipe and washer to press the old one out easily, but when installing the new one, I could not use the washer because the hole in the middle was not big enough to go over the center piece, which was out on the old one so no worries. Does anyone have a suggestion on what to use to press in the new bushing? I have a shop press, I just need something to line up on the bushing to press it in with. Also, on the old bushing, the beveled part was sticking out of the bottom of the control arm area. Is this how the new one is supposed to be installed as well, or should it be level at the top?
So when installing the powerflex sleeve, do you insert the center metal pin before or after you insert the powerflex sleeve into the metal sleeve on the control arm?
I just completed one side of my car and I installed the sleeve first and even without the pin already in place, I had to twist it on to get started and use a rubber mallet to knock it in, so I would think if the pin was already in then it would even be harder. Once this was in and I tried to insert the pin in, it did not want to go and I had to really hit it with the rubber mallet and even knocked a small chunk of the poly out of the sleeve when it finally made its way in. Hopefully it is OK...... :P
As for getting the rear bushing out and in, I was able to use a piece of pipe and washer to press the old one out easily, but when installing the new one, I could not use the washer because the hole in the middle was not big enough to go over the center piece, which was out on the old one so no worries. Does anyone have a suggestion on what to use to press in the new bushing? I have a shop press, I just need something to line up on the bushing to press it in with. Also, on the old bushing, the beveled part was sticking out of the bottom of the control arm area. Is this how the new one is supposed to be installed as well, or should it be level at the top?
#9
01-13-2011, 05:21 PM
I did not attempt to install the front urethane bushings with the center pin in place.
It's a very tight squeeze, and with the pin in place, I think it would be much more difficult to get the bushing to squeeze into the sleeve. I pressed the bushing in with a large vice and than bumped it the last couple of mm with a rubber mallet. Chamfering the steel sleeve just a little helped a lot.
I didn't have much trouble getting the pin in once the bushing was in. Again, I used the large vice to press it in.
For the rear bushing I used the large vice and some big sockets. I mean REALLY big sockets. This was less than ideal, but it worked.
Having a press, you should be able to use some combination of sockets or pipe stubs and washers to get a combo that works. Or make your own big washer out of plate. Make sure to note the original position though; mine stuck up on one side, but were not flush to the other side.
It's a very tight squeeze, and with the pin in place, I think it would be much more difficult to get the bushing to squeeze into the sleeve. I pressed the bushing in with a large vice and than bumped it the last couple of mm with a rubber mallet. Chamfering the steel sleeve just a little helped a lot.
I didn't have much trouble getting the pin in once the bushing was in. Again, I used the large vice to press it in.
For the rear bushing I used the large vice and some big sockets. I mean REALLY big sockets. This was less than ideal, but it worked.
Having a press, you should be able to use some combination of sockets or pipe stubs and washers to get a combo that works. Or make your own big washer out of plate. Make sure to note the original position though; mine stuck up on one side, but were not flush to the other side.
Last edited by wamcneil; 01-13-2011 at 05:28 PM.
#10
01-23-2011, 10:00 AM
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