Timing belt is taught. Looks pretty new. Very little in the way of striae.

 

What's it look like when running?

Something just doesn't seem right if you really hear noise and you're not throwing a misfire code...

Hmmm... a thought... not that our cars are easy to diagnose injectors while the car is running, but did you take the intake plenum off? I ask because you could have an injector issue.

Pull the plenum and check the connections?

 

What should I be looking for with the timing belt while car is running?

What is the best way to upload a video? I can let you listen to the engine for yourself.

 

Just make sure when the car is running you don't have any flap to the belt...

Have youtube?

Or PM me a link or e-mail it to me...

 

Emailed. Is the coil a proprietary Volvo code or would I be able to pull it with OBD?

 

Got it, e-mailed back.

You should be able to pull the code with OBD but if you had a coil down the car would shudder and have a horrible attempt at a rev.

When the car is running, does the exhaust smell fuel rich?

 

A little bit. Doesn't seem as bad as it was before replacing all four O2 sensors but that might just be my mind.

 

My engine also has that exact same clacky sound to it. Coils/ plugs are new and no misfires. I have a lot of dash shaking and unresponsive throttle action but I'm sure that's from the bushing being completely worn on the torque stabilizer. I heard that the sound could be lifters/tappets/ sump seal issues..
I also recently did the breather box and hear some small hissing. What are some performance or visible signs of a vacuum leak to the UIM?

Thanx. (Sorry for the hijacking)

 

What oil are you using, weightwise, and when was the last change? Synthetic or?

What are the temps where the car is?

 

20's - 40's for temp.

Mobile One full synthetic 30(weight wise I'm pretty sure its 30) two weeks ago.

I'm still unsure if there's a hiss or not going on from when I did the breather box, and I think the clacking may be the sump (not sure).

 

Clean your throttle body.

 

Changed my oil 600 miles ago with Quaker State High Mileage 10w-30. Just drained it in order to give auto-rx a whirl. It was black as night already after only 600 miles...

 

Where are you located? Do you need to run 10/30 or can you run 5/30?

 

Cleaned the ETM when I did the swap on the breather box. Torque mount bushing is completely disintegrated though and I just looked at my air box... Its warped and the clasps are missing so that might account for some bad fuel/air ratio setting off a misfire or it could just be the torque stabilizer (for the shuddering).

When I apply even pressure to the accelerator at about 2k rpm the needle goes about a half step up but then falls back to 2k and struggles. If I stomp on the accelerator I get the torque mount shudder but smooth tach to 3.5k forward...

 

MS. So never much need for 5w.

 

Probably best to start a new thread so we aren't cross diagnosing two issues in the same thread.

 

Gotcha

 

I checked the timing belt while the car was running and it seemed fine. No flap in the belt as far as I could tell. I got side-tracked by yard work so I didn't get to check much else after changing the oil.

Assuming eeuroparts finally gets around to shipping my new oil trap, I am going to disassemble much of the engine bay this weekend. I am going to replace all of the gaskets on the intake manifold and all of the vacuum hoses. I'll check the fuel injectors while I have all of that disassembled. I also have to replace my hood release cable- that looks like fun.....

Is there anything else to check on? I am starting to worry that my alternator is going. Upon start-up I have begun to notice a power drain in correlation to the high revs.

 

Nope, think you've got it covered thus far... good luck and keep us posted.

On the alternator, you could always pull it and have it tested.

 

New developments:

eeuroparts is now telling me they won't have my oil trap until THIS Monday (why does that sound familiar?) Going on three weeks now....

So that will have to wait a little longer. In the mean time, my car has changed it's start up habits. Before- it would rev up above 1200 and slowly climb for a few seconds before dropping back down to 1000 (500 if warm). Now the climb up is extremely abrupt- as in I don't think the tach can keep up. It revs up high and fast and drops just as quickly. I have also noticed, especially at long stop lights, an intermittent "shudder" coming from the engine.