My oil pan o-ring weekend.
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09-28-2008, 07:15 PM
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My oil pan o-ring weekend.
Well, I thought I'd post up some notes on what was required when I replaced the oil pan o-rings.
Tools,
Axle stands,
Trolley Jack,
Engine Hoist,
Sockets, spanners and Torx bits,
Blood,
Sweat,
Swearing.
Car is a 2000 S80 T6.
I had an o-ring go on the high pressure inlet on the power steering box, so I did alot of work all at the same time. I also needed to do the breather box work aswell (On a note about the breather box/oil trap/PVC etc, thanks a ton to the bloke who recommended the bend 10 mm spanner, worked a treat! really easy to do that way. A Volvo tech told me they snap the box off when the do it and just superglue it back together, so managing to do it properly was nice).
Jack the car up and put the axle stands underneath the rear 2 triangular pads that hold the front subframe on. Put them under the rear portion of them so you can slacken the subframe bolts off later.
Take off the torsion mount underneath the engine.
Undo the front engine mount that's just behind the radiator.
Undo the two bolts which hold the side engine mount (underneath the fan belt), access this from the offside wheel well.
Release the high pressure power steering hose from the side clips, and also the other pipe (can't remember what it does off the top of my head)
Release the fuel hose from the front and also the back of the engine. its attached at both of the offside corners of the engine.
Then undo all the oil pan bolts. There's lots.
Hoist the engine about an inch, drop the subframe as much as you need to. Loosen the rear subframe bolts helps a little here to give some slack.
Remove the oil pan.
Note. Its a real real real pain in the backside. The pan has small bits sticking out at just the wrong places to allow it to drop down. The pan need to drop straight down, you can't slide it off as you need to lower it past the pickup tube.
Some handy hints to make life easier.
Take off the engine mount thats underneath the fan belt. on my car it was stopping me sliding the oil pan up. Its fairly easy, slide off the fan belt, then undo the 4 bolts holding the cover on the crank shaft fan belt pulley so you can get to the two bolts holding the engine mount on. This is easier that it sounds, you'll need to crank the engine round a couple of times to get to them all, but its easy to do and gives you alot more room to work with underneath.
When I took the oil pan off, I lowered the back of it down enough that I could get to the 2 x 10mm bolts that hold the pickup tube in. Then I took the pickup tube out at the same time as the oil pan.
When I put it back on, I put the pickup pipe on, then put the oil pan on, and once the oil pan was over the pickup (there's internal baffles in the oil pan which the pickup goes through) then I rested it there and applied the liquid gasket. trying to slide the oil pan back in with the pickup already in place, and gasket on the edges was too hard, I just ended up with gasket over half the subframe
6.7 L of oil is right, its just takes a while to get to the bottom of the pan and for it to show on the dip stick
I used a little oil on the oil pan o-rings to keep them in place. The previous ones where in a very bad state. I'll see if I can take some photo's for your amusement. Must have been worked on by some cowboys before, didn't even have any gasket on it.
Get the car up a high as you can to give yourself lots of room underneath, will make it a lot easier.
It took ages to do, but once you've do it once, you'll be able to do it much faster the next time, but be prepared to spend 2 days on it.
Stu
Tools,
Axle stands,
Trolley Jack,
Engine Hoist,
Sockets, spanners and Torx bits,
Blood,
Sweat,
Swearing.
Car is a 2000 S80 T6.
I had an o-ring go on the high pressure inlet on the power steering box, so I did alot of work all at the same time. I also needed to do the breather box work aswell (On a note about the breather box/oil trap/PVC etc, thanks a ton to the bloke who recommended the bend 10 mm spanner, worked a treat! really easy to do that way. A Volvo tech told me they snap the box off when the do it and just superglue it back together, so managing to do it properly was nice).
Jack the car up and put the axle stands underneath the rear 2 triangular pads that hold the front subframe on. Put them under the rear portion of them so you can slacken the subframe bolts off later.
Take off the torsion mount underneath the engine.
Undo the front engine mount that's just behind the radiator.
Undo the two bolts which hold the side engine mount (underneath the fan belt), access this from the offside wheel well.
Release the high pressure power steering hose from the side clips, and also the other pipe (can't remember what it does off the top of my head)
Release the fuel hose from the front and also the back of the engine. its attached at both of the offside corners of the engine.
Then undo all the oil pan bolts. There's lots.
Hoist the engine about an inch, drop the subframe as much as you need to. Loosen the rear subframe bolts helps a little here to give some slack.
Remove the oil pan.
Note. Its a real real real pain in the backside. The pan has small bits sticking out at just the wrong places to allow it to drop down. The pan need to drop straight down, you can't slide it off as you need to lower it past the pickup tube.
Some handy hints to make life easier.
Take off the engine mount thats underneath the fan belt. on my car it was stopping me sliding the oil pan up. Its fairly easy, slide off the fan belt, then undo the 4 bolts holding the cover on the crank shaft fan belt pulley so you can get to the two bolts holding the engine mount on. This is easier that it sounds, you'll need to crank the engine round a couple of times to get to them all, but its easy to do and gives you alot more room to work with underneath.
When I took the oil pan off, I lowered the back of it down enough that I could get to the 2 x 10mm bolts that hold the pickup tube in. Then I took the pickup tube out at the same time as the oil pan.
When I put it back on, I put the pickup pipe on, then put the oil pan on, and once the oil pan was over the pickup (there's internal baffles in the oil pan which the pickup goes through) then I rested it there and applied the liquid gasket. trying to slide the oil pan back in with the pickup already in place, and gasket on the edges was too hard, I just ended up with gasket over half the subframe
6.7 L of oil is right, its just takes a while to get to the bottom of the pan and for it to show on the dip stick
I used a little oil on the oil pan o-rings to keep them in place. The previous ones where in a very bad state. I'll see if I can take some photo's for your amusement. Must have been worked on by some cowboys before, didn't even have any gasket on it.
Get the car up a high as you can to give yourself lots of room underneath, will make it a lot easier.
It took ages to do, but once you've do it once, you'll be able to do it much faster the next time, but be prepared to spend 2 days on it.
Stu
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