Need help! I don't know what's wrong...
I was driving my s80 2.9L to work this morning when I started loosing power. I would try to give it more gas but no matter how far down I pushed the gas pedal, the car just wouldn't respond. After I turned it off and let it sit for a second then turned it back on, it was doing the same thing, and then it started responding again, like it was stuck or something. Could this be the etm? If I clean the etm will that fix the problem? Thanks in advance!
I took my car to AutoZone and they gave me three codes.
P0036
P0050
P1113
When I looked up the codes, it all related to the o2 sensor. Could this be the source of my issues or is this a separate issue. Could this be as easy as replacing a fuse or do I have to take it in and get a brand new o2 sensor?
Thanks! :-)
P0036
P0050
P1113
When I looked up the codes, it all related to the o2 sensor. Could this be the source of my issues or is this a separate issue. Could this be as easy as replacing a fuse or do I have to take it in and get a brand new o2 sensor?
Thanks! :-)
You can get a o2 senser code if there is a vacuum leak or some misfire. So that might not solve the problem. I just have a 02 sensor code and multiple misfires from 1-5 and I figured it can't be 5 ignition coils. I changed the 02 sensor and the problem didn't change. so I put in 6 new ignition coils and the engine feels awesome again
Thanks for replying. :-). Everyone I have told has said that it is a vacuum leak or water in my gas line.
Our NBC new station did a story about multiple gas stations in town that have water in their tanks. I am really hoping that it is not a lot of water in my tank, and it is condinsation. My best case is the vacuum hose.
I am not sure if it is misfiring. When the above happens, it seems like it just goes back to idle, and does not go above 1500 RPM. I checked and there is no fluid leaking, I'm sure my check engine light would be on if the bulb worked :-/, and it sounds normal. (No shaking, no reving without the gas pedal being pressed, no backfiring, no rough exhaust... Nothing seems to be wrong except the fact that I cannot accelerate.).
I am sorry that I am repeating myself... :-/ I just don't think I am conveying my issue correctly.
Our NBC new station did a story about multiple gas stations in town that have water in their tanks. I am really hoping that it is not a lot of water in my tank, and it is condinsation. My best case is the vacuum hose.
I am not sure if it is misfiring. When the above happens, it seems like it just goes back to idle, and does not go above 1500 RPM. I checked and there is no fluid leaking, I'm sure my check engine light would be on if the bulb worked :-/, and it sounds normal. (No shaking, no reving without the gas pedal being pressed, no backfiring, no rough exhaust... Nothing seems to be wrong except the fact that I cannot accelerate.).
I am sorry that I am repeating myself... :-/ I just don't think I am conveying my issue correctly.
Check fuel filter or air leak after MAF.
Vacuum leaks too, as well as an air leak between the turbo and intake manifold.
Rubber connector hoses at the cooler rot.
Ed
Vacuum leaks too, as well as an air leak between the turbo and intake manifold.
Rubber connector hoses at the cooler rot.
Ed
Last edited by ed7; Dec 10, 2011 at 12:34 PM.
Thanks for the advice ed7. Unfortunately I do not have a turbo... though I wish I did. :-P I got my appointment moved up to Wednesday morning, so I will know what is going on then... :-)
Well my worst fears have been realized.... Both O2 sensors and the throttle body need to be replaced. This is over a $2000 job. Any one have any ideas on how hard it is to replace these? I know hot to replace the throttle body but anyone know how to replace the O2 sensors? Or do I need a shop to do them? If I cannot fix this on a very small budget ( under $1000). I fear I am going to have to trade it in for something else.... Which I don't want to di because I love my emo car. :'(
I went this route for the throttle body - just a DIY mechanic and no issues - about 45min taking my time/being careful
Electronic Throttle Module for Volvo | Xemodex Inc.
Electronic Throttle Module for Volvo | Xemodex Inc.
On the website Falasi4 posted... I found this in the FAQ. I think it sounds familiar!
I have installed a new XeMODeX ETM in my 99 Volvo S80 and still have the same problem. The car is in a “Limp Home” (“Limp Home” mode is an emergency software program that allows the vehicle to be driven in case of ETM, or other vital component failure. In this mode you will experience poor engine performance, poor throttle response and the car will not exceed 40MPH. (This is exactly what my issue is!
)) mode and the engine will not rev up past 2000 rpm. (My car is going into "limp mode" at 1500 rpm.)
This is a common issue for the Volvo S80 model. The old ETM shorts out causing the internal ETM fuse to blow. Check fuse #6 or #21 labelled, “ETM” or “Accelerator Pedal/ETS” in the fuse box located above the left strut tower in the engine compartment. Replace the blown fuse with the same amperage rating If you still have a problem, please consult our ETM diagnostic flow chart.
So it looks like I am out tomorrow morning getting some fuses. Falasi4 If this works I owe you a drink! I would be saving $2,165.00!
I know I should not keep my hopes up... but I had turn signals out and I replaced the fuses and they worked again, and have been for 4 years now.
Knock on wood.

I have installed a new XeMODeX ETM in my 99 Volvo S80 and still have the same problem. The car is in a “Limp Home” (“Limp Home” mode is an emergency software program that allows the vehicle to be driven in case of ETM, or other vital component failure. In this mode you will experience poor engine performance, poor throttle response and the car will not exceed 40MPH. (This is exactly what my issue is!
)) mode and the engine will not rev up past 2000 rpm. (My car is going into "limp mode" at 1500 rpm.)This is a common issue for the Volvo S80 model. The old ETM shorts out causing the internal ETM fuse to blow. Check fuse #6 or #21 labelled, “ETM” or “Accelerator Pedal/ETS” in the fuse box located above the left strut tower in the engine compartment. Replace the blown fuse with the same amperage rating If you still have a problem, please consult our ETM diagnostic flow chart.
So it looks like I am out tomorrow morning getting some fuses. Falasi4 If this works I owe you a drink! I would be saving $2,165.00!
I know I should not keep my hopes up... but I had turn signals out and I replaced the fuses and they worked again, and have been for 4 years now.
Knock on wood.
Last edited by elmo_allen; Dec 14, 2011 at 10:48 PM.
Chilton manual #72301 has testing, removal & replacement pics & instructions, pgs.4-12 & 4-13. Haynes manual #3573, pgs. 4B-5 & 4B-6. Emission Control | AutoZone.com
Soaking with PB Blaster prior to removal suggested. Cleaning or replacing sealing washer, if equipped recommended. Heated oxygen sensors are delicate, do not drop or knock!
Soaking with PB Blaster prior to removal suggested. Cleaning or replacing sealing washer, if equipped recommended. Heated oxygen sensors are delicate, do not drop or knock!
When I was replacing the fuses, I saw this...

Anyone know where this goes to? does it plug into the cylinder that is right in front of this? Any help will be great! Is there anything else that I need to check that is as easy as plugging it in?

Anyone know where this goes to? does it plug into the cylinder that is right in front of this? Any help will be great! Is there anything else that I need to check that is as easy as plugging it in?
Last edited by elmo_allen; Dec 15, 2011 at 12:08 PM.
Well I plugged in this piece and I got a "no oil pressure, stop engine." I have never gotten this message before. Before we got this message I had my mom push the accelerator to see if I could hear if anything went wrong. When I went to the rear of the car it smelled like the car was burning oil. This is a known issue to me because I have to put oil in it about every moth or two. I checked the oil, and it is two XX from the top of the stick. Could this be related to what I am dealing with or is this another issue on top of everything else?
Just got back from the second opinion... He said that I need a Mass Air Meter, an engine air filter and a oil pressure switch. This is the best news I have heard in the last couple of days! He said that the MAM can cause the throttle to go into limp mode and cause the main computer to ignor heated o2 sensors. He is only going to charge me $350 (parts and labor) to fix this! If this is the case... I am going to have to break out my happy dance! I will let everyone know what happens when it gets fixed. Thanks!
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