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Old 04-03-2008, 08:57 PM
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Default New Brakes

I am told that my T6 with 61K on it needs new brakes. Does that mean that the rotors have to be cut as well? How can I tell? How much should a brake job cost anyway?
 
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Old 04-04-2008, 05:56 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

You should never install new pads without at least resurfacing your rotors (or replacing if necessary).
 
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Old 04-06-2008, 12:05 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

No kidding? Thanks for the info. Usually I just replace the car, but suffering fromFundsalowa this year.
 
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Old 04-06-2008, 01:24 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

You replace your car when you need brakes...ok...

Yes, I'm serious about the rotors. In regards to price, brakes are huge money makers for shops, and the dealership is no different. Fronts with resurfaced rotors (usually not recommended by shops, usually they just replace)will run $200 or so. Fronts with new rotors $350 - $400 or so. All this depends on the shop, location (labor rates) and what grade of replacement parts they are using.
 
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Old 04-07-2008, 05:42 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

Thanks Lewis.
I was kind of kidding. Usually I lease our cars so I haven't done brakes in at least a decade. So if a Volvo specialty shop wanted to charge me $600 for all 4 with resurfaced rotors it wouldn't be so bad?
How about replacing struts? Any advice there?
 
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:40 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

Yeah, $600 is about right for a brake job with resurfacing at the dealership. Just forewarning, if there isn't enough rotor to resurface they will need to be replaced and your price is going to go north from the $600 cost.

Struts, eh, you shouldn't need them already at 60,000 miles, unless you're driving the car off road.
 
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:50 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

Just replaced my ft brake pads. Got them fm Volvo dealer for 62.00 and paid 50.00 to install. Rotors did not need turning. They work great. DO NOT BUY NON VOLVO PADS. Most dealers are open to a little horse trading if they are going to lose the business anyhow or at least the one I go to. BUT I never have work done unless I get a price ahead of time. They will rake you over the coals if they get a chance.
 
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:59 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

Good advice and nice price, but how come lewis says the rotors should always be cut? Do you disagree?
 
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:17 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

ORIGINAL: howardr

Good advice and nice price, but how come lewis says the rotors should always be cut? Do you disagree?
Volvo rotors should NEVER be cut.
The rotors will make noise and or warp very early after cutting them.
Volvo doesn't reccomend cutting them.
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:08 AM
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Default RE: New Brakes

While we are on the topic of rotors its amazing quite how bad this weather in florida right now is for them.. I hadnt driven my car in 3 days and when i went to drive it i see a load of rusting on all 4 rotors, naturally once i dorve it all this rust came off , but 3 days is a very short space of time to see rust forming...
Generally speaking rotors for this car are nott oo expensive, www.eeuroparts.com has the brembo and zimmerman rotors for 50 each for the rear and 55 each for the front... These are top class brands and will probably last so logn that it may be easier to just replace them eventually rather than cut them
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 06:44 AM
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Default RE: New Brakes

ORIGINAL: tech

ORIGINAL: howardr

Good advice and nice price, but how come lewis says the rotors should always be cut? Do you disagree?
Volvo rotors should NEVER be cut.
The rotors will make noise and or warp very early after cutting them.
Volvo doesn't reccomend cutting them.
I cannot disagree with this statement as I personally don't like cutting rotors, I usually just replace them, but I can say, you should not put new pads on used rotors that have not been cut. If cutting causes issues, then they should be replace.

The reason for the pad/rotor combo is rotors never wear completely even, nor do pads. They become basically mirrored to each other, this is even more true in high stop and go areas and people who stop hard. So when you replace one or the other (not both), you're basically putting two pieces together that don't match well and you will cause quicker wear of the replacement parts. In my years of working on cars and watching my brother who owns his own shop, I have seen more problems from people going the cheap way and not replacing the rotors to only get vibration, screeching, etc fromthe brand new pads.
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:19 AM
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Default RE: New Brakes

You guys are amazingly helpful. Thanks Tech & Nicolas.
So tell me, can a fairly handy guy replace either the pads or rotors or both himself with some jack stands and a fairly competent friend, or should he go to a service station and not even try it?
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:47 AM
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Default RE: New Brakes

I researched the old sites about how to change the pads and rotors. Perhaps I will try changing the pads myself, and ignore the rotors. Ignoring is one of my favorite personal behaviors. It has worked wonderfully with my wife and children.
Does anyone know which pads should I buy? Should I start in the back or front? Does it matter?.....No disgusting comments please!
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:30 AM
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Default RE: New Brakes

If you're changing your pads, you're about 95% done to getting to changing your rotors, so besides buying them, the work effort is minimally more.

Tools wise you just need a basic socket set and some muscles to release the bolts. Otherwise, no specialty tools are needed.

Pads, I would, as a previous poster said, just buy them from Volvo. In terms of replacement, fronts almost always wear quicker then rear pads just do to the natural force of the momentum pressing on the front of the car when you stop.
 
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:24 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

Thanks Lewis,
So there are no precice adjustments that have to be made, or calibrations to be made?
 
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Old 04-11-2008, 10:29 AM
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Default RE: New Brakes

One more question before I attempt this myself.
Is there some type of piston that needs to be adjusted in the caliper?
 
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Old 04-11-2008, 11:41 AM
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Default RE: New Brakes

There are no precise adjustments...

In regards to the piston in the caliper, yes, it will need to be pushed in. There is a bleeder screw that should be released prior to the piston being pushed in. Push the piston in (you'll need a large C-Clamp) and catch the fluid that squirts out (not much should come out). Close the bleeder screw and then continue on.

Some people don't release the bleeder before pushing the piston back in, this is a matter of debate, but in my opinionit is a good idea.
 
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:54 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

Thanks again Lewis.
I just came back from the Volvo specialist mechanic that I used successfully once and he made this offer to me:
New front (Brembro) rotors, Volvo pads (from the dealer) for all 4 wheels, and the complete 60,000 service for $800.
It will be hard to pass this up.
If you figure, Rotors = $120, Pads = $170, 60,000 mile service = about $6-700 from the dealer, The 1/2 day it will take me to do the brakes, if not more.
And fully warranteed.
Do you agree?
By the way....what's a C-clamp?
 
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Old 04-11-2008, 03:25 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

Here's a pic of a C-Clamp:


In regards to the price, these are prices from MySwedishParts.com

Front Volvo Pads = $67.69
Front Rotors = $78.26/Each- $156.52 Total
Rear Volvo Pads = $43.90

The only other item you need to change is your spark plugs and cabin filter. Neither of these are extremely expensive.

So parts, you're looking at under $300.00. So you're basically paying $500 in labor. Most of the service for the 60,000 mile mark are visual inspections, not much in terms of replacement. If you feel better to have someone look over everything, I would concur with paying the price, but otherwise, it's steep to me. In the end, its just about how comfortable you are with doing the brake job and trusting your judgement to what is broken.
 
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Old 04-11-2008, 09:37 PM
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Default RE: New Brakes

That's a c-clamp? I've got those.
Are those real Volvo pads? The rotors were less expensive at europarts.com...$54 with free shipping.
Spark plugs? I have no idea how to do those. A cabin filter? Doesn't sound too hard.
The piston in the caliper, is that to keep pressure on the brake pad? SO I release a little fluid and the piston gets squeezed with the c-clamp. Once the piston is in, close the bleeder and the piston is "reset?"
This really doesn't sount too bad. $500 sounds really bad though.
Is replacing spark plugs challenging? Cabin filter?
 


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