Hello, and thanks go for your time I've been a member for a while now and usually visit from my smart phone so forgive me for the format and lack of profile.
I took my 2000 s80 t6 to autozone because the check engine light started flashing and was told I needed a new ignition coil on cylinder 2 and mass air sensor and a new camshaft position sensor.
Changed ignition coil...no help. Got the mass air sensor off, but can't find the cam position sensor for the life of me. Any help would be appreciated (pic please.) Thank you.
P.s. I've searched the site and googled and bing no dice.
Or a link to a good example would do.

 

This is what i got. I am not sure your engine size. Let me know if you have a different engine size.
Hope this helps :
2.8L & 2.9L Engines
1.Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions.

2.On normally aspirated engines, remove the preheating pipe from the air cleaner, as necessary.

3.On turbocharged engines:
■Remove the intake pipe between the front cover plate and the air cleaner, as necessary.

■Remove the clamp on the hose between the mass air flow sensor and the pipe to the turbocharger. ( see pic 1)

■Remove the turbocharger control valve from the air cleaner housing.

■Disconnect the turbocharger control valve connector

■Remove the air cleaner housing. Place it to one side

■Remove the hose clamp from the crankcase ventilation and the heater hose.


4.Disconnect the connector at the bracket.

5.Remove the cable from the clamp on the cylinder block (see pic 2)

6.Remove the camshaft position sensor housing, as necessary.

7.Remove the sensor mounting screw. Pull off sensor. ( see pic 3)


Installation is the reverse of removal.

9.Tighten bolts/nuts to specification as follows:
■Sensor: 96 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

■Sensor housing: 13 ft. lbs. (17Nm)

 

Took her on into the dealership and autozone was off the mark. They (volvo) said I just need to clean the etm and replace the variable control solenoid which is hopefully in the timing belt case. I also found out that my ac no longer works because I didn't leave my key in position 2 when removing the battery for a recharge. Apparently even though I followed the instructions in the manual i ve blown some control module which is a 1200.00 mistake, that's almost half of what I paid for the car.please tell me theres a fix that's not so expensive. Oh and thanks again for the help, it is appreciated.

 

looks like a multi problem and those fix doesnt looks cheap nor easily accessible. Well now you know what problems need to be fixed. I guess now you can go to local service shop and see if they can fix it. Or see if there is a independent shop in your area that works on Volvo cars per se.

 

Ok, so I cleaned my etm which was suprisingly easy for the most part, (getting to the bolts was the hardest part.) Replaced the variable control/timing solenoid and put in a new ignition coil and spark plug. The car has a much more stable idle now (hovering at just under 1000 rpm) but it feels a little bogged down. Whenever i get on the gas, it kinda stalls. I put seafoam in the gas tank and am considering putting it in the crank case and vacuum line. Oh, and I'm getting a whole new set of spark plugs but as of now it's almost where it should be. I also noticed that there's not a gasoline smell like it used to have like it was burning rich. If the new spark plugs don't solve the problem I will be stumped. Any ideas? Could it be the turbo not working properly? The mass air sensor is fine there were no codes popping for it. The misfire has been on cylinder 2, after a new spark plug and coil on this cylinder, what else could be causing the misfire?

 

Changed ignition coils and plugs no codes but still no acceleration, won't rev past 4000 rpms. Called volvo AGAIN theyre now saying after I cleaned the etm, it must be bad. So I'm gonna take it in, and pay for another diagnostic and if it is the etm, order one from xemodex and install it. If that fixes the issues, I will let yall know because theres a lot of threads on here that are talking about the same thing I'm going through that haven't been resolved.

 

Update: So spent all day at dealership turns out, ignition coil I was using was bad. You have to be super careful with them. Usually when pulling them out they break. Need new mass air flow and etm. Even though I cleaned my etm that usually ruins them or theyre already dead apparently. If you do go to clean it, make sure you don't turn it upside down as cleaner can get into the electronics. My car is running much better for now and the ccm issue was resolved with a new software update at no charge. So it's almost like new. When I can, I'm going for a new xemodex. Big thanks to ken and volvo out of birmingham, al big thumbs down to jack ingram and tom out of montgomery, al.

 

good to know it worked out. so you got software update huh..any change in driving from the update or any electronic change? like all doors lock when in drive mode or A/C runs better or seatbelt sign on for passenger , etc??

 

The major difference is the air conditioning actually working which is a huge plus when youre expecting to pay over 1,000.00 to fix it. Considering the car died on me three times after getting off the interstate this morning and is running like a champ considering I still need a new maf and etm at this point, I would highly recommend the software upgrades. The service manager gave me the tests for the maf and etm which showed them not functioning up to spec but my car is running pretty f'n good right now. But to get it back to 0-60 in 5.4, I'm gonna need those new parts.