Volvo S80 A performance sedan that offers top notch luxury, outstanding handling and so much more.

Oil Pan O-Ring Replacement Instructions?

  #1  
Old 01-28-2010, 02:55 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Default Oil Pan O-Ring Replacement Instructions?

I think I need to replace the o-rings and clean out the oil pan in my '99 S80 but the threads instructing how to do so are difficult to grasp without photos. There was what would seem to be a great post by Tower101 here:

https://volvoforums.com/forum/showthr...uctions&page=4

but the pictures are no longer there. Can anyone direct me to a similar post with pics or provide a new one?

Thanks in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 01-28-2010, 06:15 PM
mustang's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 63
Default

I'm interested in knowing why you want to do this. I have a small oil leak on my 2001 S80 and I know it's not the drain plug (as suggested). It looks like the seal on the main crank--but given your post, perhaps it could be my oil pan/gasket (or what ever is between the pan and the block.

Are you fixing a leak?
 
  #3  
Old 01-28-2010, 08:17 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Default

No, I don't have a leak. This is the first step in resolving a "No Oil Pressure" message.

Volvo put out a bulletin warning against sludge build-up as a result of using traditional oil and recommending using only synthetic. I think that is the problem with my car so I need to clean the sludge out but I may as well replace the o-rings while I have the oil pan off.

Problem for me is that the instructions I've read here (as well as what my mechanic said) indicate that removing the oil pan requires the removal of substructure, which I think looks like a dog bone motor mount. So I'm not certain whether I need an engine hoist to keep the engine from falling on my head as well as a myriad of unknowns.
 
  #4  
Old 01-28-2010, 08:53 PM
tech's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 36,351
Default

You will need to support the motor from the top. You will need to drop the subframe quite a bit to be able to slide the pan out.
I just did one this week but could not take pictures.
 
  #5  
Old 01-28-2010, 09:28 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Default

When you say subframe, what is that exactly?
 
  #6  
Old 01-28-2010, 09:53 PM
tech's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 36,351
Default

The cradle that bolts to the under side of the body that the engine mounts mount to.
 
  #7  
Old 01-29-2010, 09:06 AM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Default

Thanks Tech. Is there any way to recover the missing photos from the post I asked about in my first post above?
 
  #8  
Old 01-29-2010, 09:24 PM
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 91
Wink

having just completed this task succesfully last week i will give you my input. I did it only because I figured I would need to do it eventually and it did seem as though i had a louder than normal ticking from the lifters. I never had a low pressure idiot light come on. I've always considered that a too late light. Anyways I struggled a bit only with the fact of there not being enough information out there. While I think Techs post is invaluable it is missing a couple of key points for the driveway mechanic.

1. You will have to drop the subframe
2. you can drop the subframe if you have the car on ramps.
3. The fuel line and power steering lines underneath the crank pulley are a bitch make sure you undo the clips holding the fuel line.
4. Support the engine and transmission from below with a jack and a board which spreads the pressure. make sure it catches the outside of the tranny pan for support. I have done this numerous times with much heavier engines without issue. JUST MAKE SURE ITS NOT just IN THE CENTER OF THE PAN IT HAS TO CATCH THE OUTER EDGES.
5. Loosen the right side engine mount subframe bolts about an inch or so. I struggled to get the pan out but once out I loosened these bolts after the pan was out, it dropped the subframe enough to easily get the pan back in.
6. There are two bolts on the subframe in the front of the car which hold retainers for the power steering line on the right side and an electrical line on the left side which should be removed to let the subframe drop.
7. I removed both left and right front subframe bolts completely. I did it slowly from one side to the other. I loosened the rear subframe bolts but did not remove completley.
8. Use the Volvo gasket sealer!! Roll it on with a foam roller. It's expensive but worth it. The young volvo mechanic I bought it from was very enthusiastic about telling me how "cool" it was, it doesn't actually set until under compression. He actually showed me gasket sealer from a week ago which was still wet.
9. I coated the O-rings that sit in the block with vaseline to keep them in place so they didn't give in to gravity while I positioned the pan. But still I did a double check cranking my neck and looking with a flashlight to make sure they were in place before I finally bolted the pan.

Really not that hard of an operation if you know what's involved. I spent alot of time between the operation checking to see if I could drop the subframe while on ramps as well as what I might be missing because with out loosening the right side engine mount it the subframe just won't drop enough.

I also loosened the steering rack bolts (4) and a bolt in the center rear as well as the front centre engine mount.

Also I almost forgot, I jacked up the car with the volvo jack while it was on ramps on the driver's side to hopefully alleviate tension on the lower A-arms, not sure if it matters or not.
I also had 3 jack stands underneath the subframe at all times, but that's just me, I have a fear of being crushed bys failing jack stands and faulty bolts and a faulty jack and ramps all at the same time!(Car's don't like me,and I'm smart enough to recogize it)

After bolting it all back up and firing her up I was pleasantly surprised to hear that the lifter noise had vanished completely and all that was left was the loud injector noise.

Nowhere near as bad as it seems. Messy for sure but not that bad IMHO.

Hope that helps!(and it's relatively clear) if not anyone can email me at [email protected] and I'll try to help.
 

Last edited by spunkymonky; 01-29-2010 at 10:05 PM.
  #9  
Old 01-29-2010, 09:49 PM
tech's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 36,351
Default

Sorry no way to get the pics back. The poster might have canceled the account they had with the site they used.
 
  #10  
Old 01-29-2010, 10:40 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Default

You're the man, SpunkyMonky. Thanks for sharing brains.
 
  #11  
Old 01-30-2010, 05:22 PM
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 24
Default

Okay, so I'm old, blind and possibly stupid. I went ahead and sprung for the overhead engine support and NOW I cannot locate the proper freaking lift points to hook the chains to. There seems to be one around the serpentine belt on the passenger side that will suffice but where do I find the one on the driver's side???
 
  #12  
Old 01-30-2010, 08:37 PM
tech's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 36,351
Default

There is supposed to be a plate used(special tool). What I do is on the back of the head(drivers side) you will see 2 screws with a washer/spacer between the screw and head. Remove the washer and put a chain on that bolt. Then lift from there.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tech
Volvo S80
100
05-03-2016 01:29 PM
tech
Volvo S70
29
12-28-2011 11:01 AM
trebuchet5684
Volvo S80
1
07-10-2010 12:38 AM
Keith Tobberman
Volvo 850
1
11-26-2007 12:35 PM
tech
Volvo 850
19
03-10-2007 04:36 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Oil Pan O-Ring Replacement Instructions?


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.