Oil Pan O-Ring Replacement Instructions?
#1
Oil Pan O-Ring Replacement Instructions?
I think I need to replace the o-rings and clean out the oil pan in my '99 S80 but the threads instructing how to do so are difficult to grasp without photos. There was what would seem to be a great post by Tower101 here:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/showthr...uctions&page=4
but the pictures are no longer there. Can anyone direct me to a similar post with pics or provide a new one?
Thanks in advance.
https://volvoforums.com/forum/showthr...uctions&page=4
but the pictures are no longer there. Can anyone direct me to a similar post with pics or provide a new one?
Thanks in advance.
#2
I'm interested in knowing why you want to do this. I have a small oil leak on my 2001 S80 and I know it's not the drain plug (as suggested). It looks like the seal on the main crank--but given your post, perhaps it could be my oil pan/gasket (or what ever is between the pan and the block.
Are you fixing a leak?
Are you fixing a leak?
#3
No, I don't have a leak. This is the first step in resolving a "No Oil Pressure" message.
Volvo put out a bulletin warning against sludge build-up as a result of using traditional oil and recommending using only synthetic. I think that is the problem with my car so I need to clean the sludge out but I may as well replace the o-rings while I have the oil pan off.
Problem for me is that the instructions I've read here (as well as what my mechanic said) indicate that removing the oil pan requires the removal of substructure, which I think looks like a dog bone motor mount. So I'm not certain whether I need an engine hoist to keep the engine from falling on my head as well as a myriad of unknowns.
Volvo put out a bulletin warning against sludge build-up as a result of using traditional oil and recommending using only synthetic. I think that is the problem with my car so I need to clean the sludge out but I may as well replace the o-rings while I have the oil pan off.
Problem for me is that the instructions I've read here (as well as what my mechanic said) indicate that removing the oil pan requires the removal of substructure, which I think looks like a dog bone motor mount. So I'm not certain whether I need an engine hoist to keep the engine from falling on my head as well as a myriad of unknowns.
#4
#8
having just completed this task succesfully last week i will give you my input. I did it only because I figured I would need to do it eventually and it did seem as though i had a louder than normal ticking from the lifters. I never had a low pressure idiot light come on. I've always considered that a too late light. Anyways I struggled a bit only with the fact of there not being enough information out there. While I think Techs post is invaluable it is missing a couple of key points for the driveway mechanic.
1. You will have to drop the subframe
2. you can drop the subframe if you have the car on ramps.
3. The fuel line and power steering lines underneath the crank pulley are a bitch make sure you undo the clips holding the fuel line.
4. Support the engine and transmission from below with a jack and a board which spreads the pressure. make sure it catches the outside of the tranny pan for support. I have done this numerous times with much heavier engines without issue. JUST MAKE SURE ITS NOT just IN THE CENTER OF THE PAN IT HAS TO CATCH THE OUTER EDGES.
5. Loosen the right side engine mount subframe bolts about an inch or so. I struggled to get the pan out but once out I loosened these bolts after the pan was out, it dropped the subframe enough to easily get the pan back in.
6. There are two bolts on the subframe in the front of the car which hold retainers for the power steering line on the right side and an electrical line on the left side which should be removed to let the subframe drop.
7. I removed both left and right front subframe bolts completely. I did it slowly from one side to the other. I loosened the rear subframe bolts but did not remove completley.
8. Use the Volvo gasket sealer!! Roll it on with a foam roller. It's expensive but worth it. The young volvo mechanic I bought it from was very enthusiastic about telling me how "cool" it was, it doesn't actually set until under compression. He actually showed me gasket sealer from a week ago which was still wet.
9. I coated the O-rings that sit in the block with vaseline to keep them in place so they didn't give in to gravity while I positioned the pan. But still I did a double check cranking my neck and looking with a flashlight to make sure they were in place before I finally bolted the pan.
Really not that hard of an operation if you know what's involved. I spent alot of time between the operation checking to see if I could drop the subframe while on ramps as well as what I might be missing because with out loosening the right side engine mount it the subframe just won't drop enough.
I also loosened the steering rack bolts (4) and a bolt in the center rear as well as the front centre engine mount.
Also I almost forgot, I jacked up the car with the volvo jack while it was on ramps on the driver's side to hopefully alleviate tension on the lower A-arms, not sure if it matters or not.
I also had 3 jack stands underneath the subframe at all times, but that's just me, I have a fear of being crushed bys failing jack stands and faulty bolts and a faulty jack and ramps all at the same time!(Car's don't like me,and I'm smart enough to recogize it)
After bolting it all back up and firing her up I was pleasantly surprised to hear that the lifter noise had vanished completely and all that was left was the loud injector noise.
Nowhere near as bad as it seems. Messy for sure but not that bad IMHO.
Hope that helps!(and it's relatively clear) if not anyone can email me at davecrobinson@hotmail.com and I'll try to help.
1. You will have to drop the subframe
2. you can drop the subframe if you have the car on ramps.
3. The fuel line and power steering lines underneath the crank pulley are a bitch make sure you undo the clips holding the fuel line.
4. Support the engine and transmission from below with a jack and a board which spreads the pressure. make sure it catches the outside of the tranny pan for support. I have done this numerous times with much heavier engines without issue. JUST MAKE SURE ITS NOT just IN THE CENTER OF THE PAN IT HAS TO CATCH THE OUTER EDGES.
5. Loosen the right side engine mount subframe bolts about an inch or so. I struggled to get the pan out but once out I loosened these bolts after the pan was out, it dropped the subframe enough to easily get the pan back in.
6. There are two bolts on the subframe in the front of the car which hold retainers for the power steering line on the right side and an electrical line on the left side which should be removed to let the subframe drop.
7. I removed both left and right front subframe bolts completely. I did it slowly from one side to the other. I loosened the rear subframe bolts but did not remove completley.
8. Use the Volvo gasket sealer!! Roll it on with a foam roller. It's expensive but worth it. The young volvo mechanic I bought it from was very enthusiastic about telling me how "cool" it was, it doesn't actually set until under compression. He actually showed me gasket sealer from a week ago which was still wet.
9. I coated the O-rings that sit in the block with vaseline to keep them in place so they didn't give in to gravity while I positioned the pan. But still I did a double check cranking my neck and looking with a flashlight to make sure they were in place before I finally bolted the pan.
Really not that hard of an operation if you know what's involved. I spent alot of time between the operation checking to see if I could drop the subframe while on ramps as well as what I might be missing because with out loosening the right side engine mount it the subframe just won't drop enough.
I also loosened the steering rack bolts (4) and a bolt in the center rear as well as the front centre engine mount.
Also I almost forgot, I jacked up the car with the volvo jack while it was on ramps on the driver's side to hopefully alleviate tension on the lower A-arms, not sure if it matters or not.
I also had 3 jack stands underneath the subframe at all times, but that's just me, I have a fear of being crushed bys failing jack stands and faulty bolts and a faulty jack and ramps all at the same time!(Car's don't like me,and I'm smart enough to recogize it)
After bolting it all back up and firing her up I was pleasantly surprised to hear that the lifter noise had vanished completely and all that was left was the loud injector noise.
Nowhere near as bad as it seems. Messy for sure but not that bad IMHO.
Hope that helps!(and it's relatively clear) if not anyone can email me at davecrobinson@hotmail.com and I'll try to help.
Last edited by spunkymonky; 01-29-2010 at 10:05 PM.
#11
Okay, so I'm old, blind and possibly stupid. I went ahead and sprung for the overhead engine support and NOW I cannot locate the proper freaking lift points to hook the chains to. There seems to be one around the serpentine belt on the passenger side that will suffice but where do I find the one on the driver's side???
#12
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